Hunter 23' Keel Restoration

[carboman]

I have scraped off most of the heavy growth and am down to getting it to the bare cast iron. I have noticed what looks and feel like some soft metal, almost lead material on the edges of the wing and trailing edge of the keel where it slopes to the stern. I was able to cut into it with an angle grinder to see when I hit iron and it worked somewhat.

My main question is do I have too be concerned with how much of this metal I ttake off?

Will sandblasting it remove to much of the keel?

I know it needs to go down to bare iron, then prep and seal, I have that part figured out.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Dave

 

[isaksp00]

I'd use your grinder and a heavy wire brush and/or grinding wheel to get the soft stuff off, then fair up any real gouges or gaps with thickened epoxy. That's how I did mine, then treated it with POR15. Worked pretty well, with only minor pitting after a season and a half. I'm in fresh water though - looks like yours may be in salt water.

 

[carboman]

The grinder worked but threw off some natsy dust. I was thinking the pressure washer sandblaster attachment and definetly some por15. Good stuff. I will need to do some cutting for sure. Trying to keep the fumes down in the neighborhood.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Dave;

You have to grid to good metal and it is a must to clean down to bare metal in the adjoining areas to include those that have to be filled. If it means wire brushing, please wear a respirator and gloves plus old clothing not to mention eye protection tool
Use a good two part epoxy to fill. The slower type for example Water Tite is good.

When finished with the prop work on the keel, apply four to five coats of epoxy barrier coatings and then bottom paint. You will have to rough up the epoxy barrier coat for good adhesion of the bottom paint.

Fopr those of you painting prop shafts,l props and struts, Petit has a couple of products to apply so paint will not come off. I forgot specifically but there is a first coat and then a tie coat. Good to work with for high speed props.

crazy dave condon

 

[Mike Culik]

On my new (used) Hunter 31 with iron keel, my 41/2 grinder with a metal disc didn't work; with wire brush didn't work, with 36 grit flapper sanding disc worked like a charm. It produced a major dust storm requiring respirator, old cloths or better yet a jump suit and plenty of open space for the dust cloud! Not neighbor friendly……..

After fairing the keel with West Epoxy filler, I put on 5 coats of Interlux InterProtect 2000E Epoxy Primer, followed by SeaHawk Cukote Biocide Plus (northern Chesapeake Bay).

This is the second time I have used this approach. On my old boat, after 4 years in the water, including winters, upon hauling out, I only had to sand some small spots with my orbital sander, reseal with the same primer and bottom coat.

Worked for me …

Good luck with your project

Mike

 

[isaksp00]

It is a dirty job, no matter what. And working your body under the H23 hull on its trailer will cause some contortions.

I used the Interlux 2000E on my rudder, which when I bought the boat was pretty dinged and gouged, which I fixed with West Marine epoxy/filler. I figured the white Interlux would be a good barrier coat. I found it a pain to use - not so easy to have to measure and mix and when applied, tended to be hard to tip with the brush. Of course, I am only in fresh water, and don't use antifouling - so maybe in salt, the Interlux on the metal keel is a better bet.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

When you are doing this type of work, it is very dusty particularly with bottom paint dust which is why protection for the eyes, lungs, ears and body is important. Even on the hottest days to include 100 degrees I used protection. I saw a fellow working in a marine yard who was 39 years ago that told me it was not necessary but he had emphysema badly and he did not smoke. I wonder.

When you are sanding any bottom, many of you fail to know that the dust can get into fine holes of the gel coat and if allowed to sit, can stain the boat. I always have suggested to wash off the entire boat after sanding to include your neighbor's boats as dust can fly.

When applying epoxy to any rudder that will be in the sun, always use light color which is why I was glad to see white mentioned as the darker colors cause the rudders to really heat up and can split them. The manuals do warn about that.

Crazy Dave Condon

 

[carboman]

Thanks for the help !!! I worked with the grinder a bit and it seems like te way to go. I will get back on it tomorrow. I am using the grinder for the heavy stuff then will it with the sanding disc. I have been using my shop vac and keeping the hose close to what I am sanding. It is really keeping the dust down. No compliants from the neighbors yet.

Thanks again,
Dave