Hunter 23 floorboards
- Thread starter Fly_H23
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No, I did replace parts of the sole with 3/4" plywood routed with 1/4" straight bit and inlayed with elm. Had to spend some time selecting the ply and elm to get the grain and color right. After a coating of "gun stock" stain and polyurethane it is hard to tell if from teak and holly except that it does not flex when you stand on it and it is shinny and new looking instead of old and warn. Cost was around $6/sq ft and took me an afternoon, router, table saw to get to the point where I could stain, install the "holly" and polyurethane. The poly took a week to put all the coats on all the surfaces though.
On my H22 I stripped them, gave them a light sanding, and then re-urethaned them. The pic show a before (left), and just a washing after the stripping. Once urethanes they looked really nice. Sorry i don't have any finished pics.
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Mine had been under water, as the prev owner had a flood over the winter that had filled the cabin somewhat. They were not quite as weathered as inarathree's. I used teak cleaner and brightener (though I don't think these are teak), then some teak oil with fine steel wool. Came out fairly decent, if not new.
Related to this - does anyone know the purpose of the vertical wood strips that form slots or channels, that go up the wood panels on either side of the floorboard area (the sides of the settees)? At least one floorboard seems to fit by sliding into these (I assume the others do). Almost looks like it is intended to form a support for an insert, perhaps to add cusions and make the settees into a full-width bed?
Related to this - does anyone know the purpose of the vertical wood strips that form slots or channels, that go up the wood panels on either side of the floorboard area (the sides of the settees)? At least one floorboard seems to fit by sliding into these (I assume the others do). Almost looks like it is intended to form a support for an insert, perhaps to add cusions and make the settees into a full-width bed?
The vertical slots are to take the floorboards insert them in the slots and move the cushions on top to make another berth.
We just started refinishing ours and only about 1/2 the holly is there. I think they were under water for some time. I'm going to try masking tape and some black paint over the damaged holly unless someone here has a better idea.
One of them I had to cut out the back plys and spliced in a piece of birch plywood behind the top layer of teak. That's how bad these floorboards were. I just cant spend $200+ on a new sheet of plywood.
John
One of them I had to cut out the back plys and spliced in a piece of birch plywood behind the top layer of teak. That's how bad these floorboards were. I just cant spend $200+ on a new sheet of plywood.
John
This is why I'm thinking of going with a plastic like Starboard or similar. I can replace all the floorboards and hatch boards for about $200 and never worry about them getting wet or having to refinish.
Fly_H23
No photos. I already through out the old boards. I am going at the port side salon sole this weekend to fix the water tank leak underneath. I'll make sure to take some of both the original and the replacement.
No photos. I already through out the old boards. I am going at the port side salon sole this weekend to fix the water tank leak underneath. I'll make sure to take some of both the original and the replacement.
Only one caution Fly_H23
Starboard is NOT a structural material. It works great when it does not have to span more than 16 inches on center and saggs considerably at 24 inch on center. If the boards are all well supported the there should be no problem aside from some slight springyness. Once you start getting beyond 16 inch between supports it rapidly gets an unacceptabel spring in it followed by a permenant sag after the first heat wave.
Starboard is NOT a structural material. It works great when it does not have to span more than 16 inches on center and saggs considerably at 24 inch on center. If the boards are all well supported the there should be no problem aside from some slight springyness. Once you start getting beyond 16 inch between supports it rapidly gets an unacceptabel spring in it followed by a permenant sag after the first heat wave.
you might check with Hunter, about a month ago they were having a "sale" on the floor board material. They were selling something like 4x8 sheets of it. I also know that if you call them they have them in stock, or make them. For a 20-something foot they can't cost must more than a couple hundred.
That was my first thought. Go get a 24" wide cutting board and try to span between two chairs and watch it flex. I guess it would depend on the thickness. I think hatchboards would be fine. Bevel cut the edges so they don't leak, but they probably already know that.
The other big expense with ordering the plywood was shipping.
That is some beautiful wood work. I'm trying to get away from the maintenance of all the woodwork, otherwise I'd just go buy a wooden sailboat. They are amazing to look at but I'm after durability and zero refinishing.
I saw a H22 for sale a few years ago where the owner felt the same way.. hated taking care of all the teak on the boat. So he painted all the woodwork blue.
Cheers,
Brad
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