Hunter 23 broken z-spar tabernacle mast foot

Jul 15, 2009
27
Hunter 23 Erie, PA
I broke my z-spar mast foot while raising my Hunter 23 (1990) mast. I'm really having trouble identifying the part number and finding a replacement. The deck plate (which was not broken) has the number 1100. They appear to be an aluminum castings.

I also need a tabernacle hinge pin replacement. It was bent in the accident.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Dec 2, 2003
759
Hunter 260 winnipeg, Manitoba
Does it look like this?

1718493888313.gif

If so from the rig rite site it looks like it could be one of 3 mast feet - see if there is a stamped number on the foot. 1397, 1011 & or 1095, 1012 &/or 1096. Some measurements are on the site. Foot and pin would be available from rigrite or the hunter owners site

(Hunter 23 Rigging & Spars Parts)

(I’d support the owners store as it provides us with this wonderful web site!)
Their customer support is also great if you need to confirm parts with a live person.

 
Apr 27, 2010
1,255
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I think the part that goes in the bottom of the mast extrusion is what's needed. Looks like the links provided by twalker would have whichever model matches your mast.
 
Jul 15, 2009
27
Hunter 23 Erie, PA
Hi twalker H260!

Thanks for the quick reply!

Yes, that’s the correct mast base photo. I went to the SBO site as you suggested and linked, they had everything I needed. I have a call into them for some additional information; but what an easy way to find parts. Mine is the “older design” H-23 mast foot, the new design appears to have been made sturdier with “beefier” construction. Probably why mine snapped off so easily. (I caught the vang hinge between the base and foot, raised the mast and then “squish” went the vang hinge and “pop” went the mast foot.

Thanks again for the detailed reply, and thanks for your time helping me.

Jim
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,255
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I assume you need the part that inserts into the mast extrusion. Did it break or rip out the rivets in the extrusion, or maybe both? I had mine rip out the rivets. I used aluminum pop rivets to replace, on the theory that I'd rather sacrifice the rivets if I twist the mast than the mast, likely if stainless rivets were used. Plus those rivets shouldn't get much stress, only when the mast is part way up.
 
Jul 15, 2009
27
Hunter 23 Erie, PA
Hi isaksp00. Here is what broke on the foot. Hopefully you can see it in the photo. The rivets were fine. I suppose that Hunter used this weak link in mast stepping to prevent an even more disastrous outcome..... mast break or worse.

I remember reading in a post from the past, "there is no good way to raise a Hunter 23 mast". I've tried them all except for hiring someone else to do it!

Jim

IMG_6439.jpeg
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,255
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
Ok, you'll have to drill out and re-rivet the new piece. Not hard. I had my mast twist to the side while stepping one season, luckily only pulling out that piece from the tube. I fashioned a set of baby stays to help in future; these did help, but it was king of a PITA to build it. If you can get a couple of helpers to hold the side stays while raising or lowering, plus 2 more, one to winch it up and the other to help get the masthead off the crutch, and the helpers are careful to support it, you should be ok. The 23 has a rather long mast.
 
Jul 15, 2009
27
Hunter 23 Erie, PA
Thanks Peter!

Sounds like a good plan. We’ve tried mast raising by winching (Hunter’s method), marina stationary crane ( probably the safest method), and now I built a gin pole and can raise the mast with 2 helpers. Side to side movements are a problem. I try not to raise it in too much wind.

This is the second time in 34 years that I’ve broken the foot at the same spot. First with the winch method and now with the gin pole method. I’m not complaining, just trying to be cautious.

Thanks again for all your help!

Jim
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,255
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I found the gin pole to really help getting the mast up, but useless to keep it swaying sideways. At least, if you use the single pole design and not the "a frame"
 
Jul 15, 2009
27
Hunter 23 Erie, PA
I’ve used the single pole method. Dock mates are intrigued by the “clickey clack” of the ratchet as they watch the mast rise. (At least 30 feet tall). Usually goes up in half a minute as helpers keep the mast From moving sideways. I’m not sure if I’m doing it correctly, I attach the gin pole to the Jib halyard and to the jib plate in the forward anchor locker.
 

RitSim

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Jan 29, 2018
417
Beneteau 411 Branford
usspars.com
chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://www.usspars.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/preY2KCatalog.pdf
 
Apr 27, 2010
1,255
Hunter 23 Lake Wallenpaupack
I don't have any photos and the boat is wrapped. Basically, the PO made a hefty u shaped bracket from aluminum that is about 1/4 in thick and wraps around the mast base. He drilled two holes through the bracket and mast, side to side, so the bracket can be bolted in place. I would not have done that. He used a stout aluminum pole about 1 1/2 in diameter that gets one end bolted inside the open end of the bracket, obviously on front side of mast. The pole is long enough to reach about 4 in short of the forestay. He bolted stout eye bolts near the end of the pole, one on top one on bottom, and had the eye welded closed where it bends around near the base, so it wouldn't unbend. Jib halyard clips to top eye and is adjusted so pole is angled slightly up toward mast head and secured to cleat. He made a 4 to 1 block and tackle, you could use the main sheet. That long line attaches to lower eye bolt on pole and then to extension pole he fitted to trailer and is used to haul up.

Kind of hard to describe baby stays. Basically I made a pair of wood "lifts" that are attached against outside of gunwale on each side directly opposite mast. An eye bolt through bolted through each block of wood (made from 2 by 4's) was made so it is at the same height as mast step. I use a pair of ratchet straps to hold the lift blocks in place, around hull. A stainless wire with eye at either end is attached across deck and shackled to wood block, keeping the tops of the blocks from tilting outward when the straps are tightened down. The eye bolts at top of blocks then anchor stainless wire stays that form a bridle. The tip of the bridle V is pulled up the mast by the main halyard to below the spreaders by wrapping a short length of chain around mast. Obviously the length of each bridle wire has to be such that the wire is as tight as feasible when it is pulled all the way up.