Hello all, we having a question regarding the proper/best way to rig the topping lift on our Hunter 23.5. This boat is fairly new to us and the way we have it rigged now isn’t correct and we’d like to fix that. Currently the topping lift runs through a roller at the end of the boom. This only gives us about 8” of line left to work with. There is a “U” shaped ring (eyestrap) on the bottom side of the boom near the rear roller block that we have been tying it to, but we know this isn’t correct. We have seen some photos of a pulley system with a V cleat or a cam cleat installed on the side of the boom. However, we have also seen some sort of rigging that connects to the topping lift and the back of the boom that seems to have some sort of pulley system in between…almost like a little mainsheet. Has anyone seen this setup? Please see picture for a better idea of what I‘m talking about. We are looking for suggestions on the most efficient way to rig this properly.
Hunter 23.5 topping lift rigging.
- Thread starter HunterStClair
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- hunter 23.5 topping lift
I can't see much from your photo, but if the 23.5 is like the 23 (that is, your mileage may vary)...
The standard setup has the topping lift go from the mast crane to one of the 3 sheaves at the aft end of the boom, through the boom and out past one of the jam cleats at the fore end. To adjust you pull the line at the mast. 2 disadvantages: there is no mechanical advantage, so you are pulling with enough force to lift the weight of the boom; and if you haul the boat, you have to pull that line out of the boom to remove the boom from the boat or stow inside, and then re-thread it the next season.
I followed advice I found on the forum to redo mine (which the PO had rigged with a wire rope from the mast crane to a shackle on the lower end that attached to a "bar" above the boom sheaves, thus was unadjustable). I cut the wire so it was about 3 feet short of the boom end when horizontal, and attached a small swivel block. I routed a braided line through the boom as described above, with the line entering at the front of the boom, exiting through a sheave at rear, going up to and through the block, then down to be tied to that "bar". That gives you 2 to 1 mechanical advantage (easier to pull the boom up after you remove the sail), and more important lets you untie the topping line from the boom end, pull it through the block, and remove the boom without taking the line out of the boom.
If you want to adjust the TL from the cockpit, you could attach a small cheek block and cleat to the side of the boom and run that line through the cheek block forward to the cleat.
The standard setup has the topping lift go from the mast crane to one of the 3 sheaves at the aft end of the boom, through the boom and out past one of the jam cleats at the fore end. To adjust you pull the line at the mast. 2 disadvantages: there is no mechanical advantage, so you are pulling with enough force to lift the weight of the boom; and if you haul the boat, you have to pull that line out of the boom to remove the boom from the boat or stow inside, and then re-thread it the next season.
I followed advice I found on the forum to redo mine (which the PO had rigged with a wire rope from the mast crane to a shackle on the lower end that attached to a "bar" above the boom sheaves, thus was unadjustable). I cut the wire so it was about 3 feet short of the boom end when horizontal, and attached a small swivel block. I routed a braided line through the boom as described above, with the line entering at the front of the boom, exiting through a sheave at rear, going up to and through the block, then down to be tied to that "bar". That gives you 2 to 1 mechanical advantage (easier to pull the boom up after you remove the sail), and more important lets you untie the topping line from the boom end, pull it through the block, and remove the boom without taking the line out of the boom.
If you want to adjust the TL from the cockpit, you could attach a small cheek block and cleat to the side of the boom and run that line through the cheek block forward to the cleat.
Howdy, welcome to SBO. First, I am not a Hunter owner... but... when anyone mentions "topping lift"
I conjure up that tool's frustration to day sailing pleasure. My Cat 27 was equipped with one when I acquired it so many years ago. It was simple. A static line from the mast with an eye on the lower end. Attached to eye was a 2:1 tackle. To give you a bit of help if needed. I used 1/4" line, tied to an eyestrap on the boom, then up to a small block attached to the topping lift's eye, then back down to a cheek block... which directed the line forward a few feet to a clam cleat with a fair lead. The fairlead is needed to keep the control line in place, and moving it forward allowed you to adjust it if the boom was swung outwards.
That's a pretty basic system and one I can easily recommend for your boat. I would avoid running it through the mast and any such thing.
Where things got crazy for me was when I ordered a new mainsail back then and it had all the modern stuff sailors were keen on. A larger roach main and a couple of full length battens to support it allowed you to sail with a smaller headsail. Much more convenient for shorthanded daysailing.
Unfortunately, a topping lift and large roach mainsails do NOT get along together. Every tack includes a hang up and constant adjustment. Really not fun. I really found it annoying... kinda taking the fun out of it.
But........ GOOD NEWS...!!!! a game changer. It's called the RIGID VANG and when I saw them I knew that was the answer to keep saiing fun.
So go ahead and set up the topping lift the way I mentioned. Not expensive... but safe your money and put that rigid vang in your future. It will change everything about your sailing pleasure. Check out Garhaurer Marine's line of rigid vangs. Thats what I installed on my boat 20 plus years ago and have NEVER regretted it. The old TL has been wrapped around the backstay, out of the way and I have never had cause to even think about using it ... in fact I can't think of any thing there is to use it for.. .. At the end of the day I attach the main halyard to the end of the boom and tension the vang to stabilize it when parked and the sails are down. Here's a pic of the 12:1 version they build for boats 18-24 ft. Currently priced at $346. For another $75 you can get a little beefier 16:1 purchase. I encourage you to check them out... Lots of guys here swear by their Garhaurer rigids vangs. Again, welcome.
I conjure up that tool's frustration to day sailing pleasure. My Cat 27 was equipped with one when I acquired it so many years ago. It was simple. A static line from the mast with an eye on the lower end. Attached to eye was a 2:1 tackle. To give you a bit of help if needed. I used 1/4" line, tied to an eyestrap on the boom, then up to a small block attached to the topping lift's eye, then back down to a cheek block... which directed the line forward a few feet to a clam cleat with a fair lead. The fairlead is needed to keep the control line in place, and moving it forward allowed you to adjust it if the boom was swung outwards. That's a pretty basic system and one I can easily recommend for your boat. I would avoid running it through the mast and any such thing.
Where things got crazy for me was when I ordered a new mainsail back then and it had all the modern stuff sailors were keen on. A larger roach main and a couple of full length battens to support it allowed you to sail with a smaller headsail. Much more convenient for shorthanded daysailing.
Unfortunately, a topping lift and large roach mainsails do NOT get along together. Every tack includes a hang up and constant adjustment. Really not fun. I really found it annoying... kinda taking the fun out of it.
But........ GOOD NEWS...!!!! a game changer. It's called the RIGID VANG and when I saw them I knew that was the answer to keep saiing fun.
So go ahead and set up the topping lift the way I mentioned. Not expensive... but safe your money and put that rigid vang in your future. It will change everything about your sailing pleasure. Check out Garhaurer Marine's line of rigid vangs. Thats what I installed on my boat 20 plus years ago and have NEVER regretted it. The old TL has been wrapped around the backstay, out of the way and I have never had cause to even think about using it ... in fact I can't think of any thing there is to use it for.. .. At the end of the day I attach the main halyard to the end of the boom and tension the vang to stabilize it when parked and the sails are down. Here's a pic of the 12:1 version they build for boats 18-24 ft. Currently priced at $346. For another $75 you can get a little beefier 16:1 purchase. I encourage you to check them out... Lots of guys here swear by their Garhaurer rigids vangs. Again, welcome.
I have not looked at the 23.5 but the H240 has the topping lift, which is wire from the mast head, connected to a 3/8" line about 18" above the boom when level. The line goes through a block at the end of the boom and goes over a block at the front of the boom with a single locking cam. This is the first adjustable topping lift I have ever had. I pull it as high as it will go when at the dock to keep the boom off the Bimini. I leave it in that position when raising the sale as it make is easier to pull the halyard. When it is windy I also leave the boom high in order to spill wind out of the mainsail rather that taking the time to reef. If the winds are light I release all the tension and let the sail support the boom. You can fine tune you main with the topping lift and the out haul if you are in to racing or if just a perfectionist.
Yes..... I know you don't have a rigid vang... that's the point I was hoping to make. With a rigid vang you don't have to spend any time at all messing with the topping lift. Rigid vangs have made mainsail topping lifts obsolete... they reduce mainsail handling trim functions only. The TL does very little, if anything at all, to affect your mainsail trim.
Had a 23.5. We ran it through the third sheave and cleated it on the side of the boom. Done. And is quick to connect or disconnect. Wish we hadn't sold it now that we are sailing in a "salad sea".