Hunter 23.5 Cleats

[rgranger]

I agree with Rgranger. It's worth considering the rub-rail installation. Here's a few pictures of my boat. The PO installed cleats toward the bow mounted to the rub-rail overhang. I can vouch for the fact they are plenty strong.
View attachment 128933 View attachment 128934 View attachment 128935

Nice pics doug... I had not thought of a top "backing plate" but I think that looks right. I want to do something similar mid ship so I don't have to hang my bumpers from the shrouds. Also, I had mid-ship cleats on my last boat (Balboa 26) and I would attach a mid-ship spring line... nice for tying up but also very nice maneuvering in and out of a slip.....

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Although in normal conditions this will be fine, I generally look at all types of storms, incidents and so forth. If a cleat is torn from the deck, the damage is a lot easier to repair than from the rub rail where the hull to deck joint is and the damages should a cleat installed there will be much more difficult as that portion of the deck and hull are ripped off which I dealt with not to mention the cost of repairs which is what I am talking about. On one 26, the cleat tore away the deck and hull area out and it took a lot of time to repair that. Most of you would be frustrated in such a repair but this is all I am going to say

 

[Rick Webb]

I think the lip on the 26 or 260 is wider than the 23.5 or 240.

On mine there is 1.25" underneath and 1" on top

 

[Arnold Lamont]

Hi Guys,
I am warmed by your responses and the ensuing conversation. I did slide down into the rear berth right to the back and took some photographs. These were taken, lying on my back on the starboard side of the stern, looking into the corner where 3 surfaces meet. I am slightly disorientated by the photos though. However, in one of them you will see the outline of the lazarette/locker.

My boat is on a swing mooring and I don't have assistance or company on the boat so it takes lots of sliding in, taking photos, sliding out, figuring out what is on the outside before sliding in again. Right now, I am not sure what that single screw is sticking into thin air. We are going into Summer now so I will be spending more time there this weekend and hope to figure out
1. What that single silver screw is.
2. Where that wooden backing plate and bolt goes to on deck.
Will keep you posted.

 

[rgranger]

Are the pictures upside down?

 

[Rick Webb]

Is that screw the end of the rub rail?

 

[Arnold Lamont]

I would not know how to put the pictures 'up side down'? They might be swiveled around but I lay on my back when taking the pictures. I will check again when the weather clears up and I can get to the boat. I suspect the wooden backing plate is for the one foot of the raised seat/chair under which I want to put the cleat. That would be the foot next to the swim ladder. The stainless screw might be the end of the toe rail/rub rail.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Arnold, figure out what that bolt/screw is holding down. At that point you have a bolt thru the deck holding something. This is part of the deck that is strictly fiberglass and board is distributing the load of the bolt being retained by that nut. Let me know.

Caverun; Can you comment. Can you send me a private email with your number so I can pick your brain sir.

 

[Arnold Lamont]

Hi All,
I think the picture would make more sense now. I have swivvelled it around and added the labels. The single silver screw is definitely the end of the rubrail.
The bolt with the backing plate is definitely the one leg (on the transom side) of the raised char/seat.

Regards,
Arnold

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Arnold;
First I would never suggest a cleat on top of the rub rail lip even using the style securing of the shroud chain plates as they are. Why? Think of it this way, a rope tied to a cleat secured to a dock with wave action will cause undo stresses in many directions could eventually jerk that cleat off possibly damaging whereby the chain plates are secure and tight and not as subject contrary to what some will say. As for the top of the coaming, going thru fiberglass and then removing foam behind the lazerette will be difficult. If you find a place that you can get to and be able to put a backing plate easily to distruibute the load, that would be the way to go. If putting on the transom, it is not as thick as the deck so a larger backing plate would be necessary.