Hey Sean, yep, my anchor locker is a project I’ll tackle in the spring, along with the bulkhead beneath it, inside the area with the triangular hatch below it, if yours is anything like mine, it is probably water logged... so I’ll remove the plywood from each and replace with coosa board offshore 26 in 1/2” thickness, and cover with woven roving/ mat and laid up with west system 1/1 epoxy. I’m considering lining the bottom of the anchor locker with 1/16”aluminum diamond plate to prevent the anchor and chain from beating up the bottom.
In my aft section, there were at least 2 holes in one section of hose, and rust stains under one of the clamps. Given the critical nature of this assembly, I determined that total replacement was good cheap insurance.(actually the annual yacht policy on my runabout costs just a bit less). It seems that it worked quite well, the only water in that area now I believe is from the toerail which leaks all the way around the boat. The gelcote covering the wood rail, at the inside of the hull deck joint is totally cracked and will be replaced in the spring.
I removed the port side bulkhead, which was rotted, to make the repair. I have 25 lbs on you and the starboard side was out of the question, even though I’m a caver... I then replaced the bulkhead with starboard, I can remove it if I need to do other work in that area (I do), and it won’t meet the same fate. I’ll say it was actually a lot easier than I thought to replace the hoses, just use a heat gun to soften. If you run them like I did, start with the lower center hose,followed by the starboard, finally the port, measuring as you go. Remember to install the clamps loosely before connecting anything and I suggest not reusing any of the old parts. Lightly sand the tubes before installing the new hoses for the best connections.
As to blocking up the boat, I’d hired a boat mover with a hydraulic trailer to bring the boat to my house, he owns a marina and does that all the time. The fun part will be getting it on a trailer once it is ready.
Best of luck on your project,I’d like to see how you progress.
In my aft section, there were at least 2 holes in one section of hose, and rust stains under one of the clamps. Given the critical nature of this assembly, I determined that total replacement was good cheap insurance.(actually the annual yacht policy on my runabout costs just a bit less). It seems that it worked quite well, the only water in that area now I believe is from the toerail which leaks all the way around the boat. The gelcote covering the wood rail, at the inside of the hull deck joint is totally cracked and will be replaced in the spring.
I removed the port side bulkhead, which was rotted, to make the repair. I have 25 lbs on you and the starboard side was out of the question, even though I’m a caver... I then replaced the bulkhead with starboard, I can remove it if I need to do other work in that area (I do), and it won’t meet the same fate. I’ll say it was actually a lot easier than I thought to replace the hoses, just use a heat gun to soften. If you run them like I did, start with the lower center hose,followed by the starboard, finally the port, measuring as you go. Remember to install the clamps loosely before connecting anything and I suggest not reusing any of the old parts. Lightly sand the tubes before installing the new hoses for the best connections.
As to blocking up the boat, I’d hired a boat mover with a hydraulic trailer to bring the boat to my house, he owns a marina and does that all the time. The fun part will be getting it on a trailer once it is ready.
Best of luck on your project,I’d like to see how you progress.
