Hello, I'm new to sailing. Recently took sailing classes and purchased a 2004 Hunter 216. I am sailing it on an inland lake. My classes took place on a Cal 24 and the tiller controls were smooth. I took my first sail today on my, new to me 216 and the tiller controls were "catchy" and seemed to have alot of "play". Any issues with the tiller controls with this model that I need to have looked at or is that common for this boat? Also, when I put up the mast I must have lost the stop that goes in the mast that prevents the clips of the main sail from coming out. Any suggestions where to purchase a new one? Thanks in advance for any help you may offer.
Hunter 216 issues
- Thread starter Maule
- Start date
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
J
Jeff Prideaux
rudder
The H216 rudder design with the inside rudder and drum is probably a bit catchy due to its design. There may be some quality issues especially in some of the earlier models. Mine is a 2004 and it is only a "bit" catchy. I presume that the Cal 24 has a stern-mounted rudder with a tiller that is directly attached to the rudder. The H216 would probably always be a bit more "catchy" than a stern-rudder boat. I also lost my mainsail stop last weekend when I was out sailing. I plan to stop by West Marine today to try to get a replacement. If they have them, I'll get two. Someone posted that they had fixed a small fishing line (or something) to their stop (and tied it to the mast) to prevent loosing it. I might look into that. I try to carry redundant clips and pins (for everything) on the boat since if you can loose it, you probably will (over time)....
The H216 rudder design with the inside rudder and drum is probably a bit catchy due to its design. There may be some quality issues especially in some of the earlier models. Mine is a 2004 and it is only a "bit" catchy. I presume that the Cal 24 has a stern-mounted rudder with a tiller that is directly attached to the rudder. The H216 would probably always be a bit more "catchy" than a stern-rudder boat. I also lost my mainsail stop last weekend when I was out sailing. I plan to stop by West Marine today to try to get a replacement. If they have them, I'll get two. Someone posted that they had fixed a small fishing line (or something) to their stop (and tied it to the mast) to prevent loosing it. I might look into that. I try to carry redundant clips and pins (for everything) on the boat since if you can loose it, you probably will (over time)....
K
Kris
Rudder & Sail Stop
Maule, Congrats on your new H216! If you check the archives you will see several of us have had similar issues. I have an '04 model and the tiller/rudder ease of movement has changed over time. Since I single hand I prefer more friction in the movement and considered installing a tiller tamer. This would keep me on course while I made sail adjustments or fiddled around the cabin. But, as time went on the movement tightened up, or got "catchy." I sprayed Sailkote dry lube around the bearings to loosen it when it got tight and it worked fine. I heard Hunter has changed designs several times to get a more durable system with a sweet spot movement. The satisfaction level would probably raise if the tension is adjustable to satisfy all of our different tastes. But, of course that would mean more maintenance and added cost. I wish I had a dime for all the sail track stops that went overboard. I got my replacement at West Marine; Davis flat-side in-track part #2352 for $8.99. And like Jeff said, I now tie it to the boom goose neck. The Davis model I got has a small hole in it and can easily be tied with fishing line. Happy sailing! Kris
Maule, Congrats on your new H216! If you check the archives you will see several of us have had similar issues. I have an '04 model and the tiller/rudder ease of movement has changed over time. Since I single hand I prefer more friction in the movement and considered installing a tiller tamer. This would keep me on course while I made sail adjustments or fiddled around the cabin. But, as time went on the movement tightened up, or got "catchy." I sprayed Sailkote dry lube around the bearings to loosen it when it got tight and it worked fine. I heard Hunter has changed designs several times to get a more durable system with a sweet spot movement. The satisfaction level would probably raise if the tension is adjustable to satisfy all of our different tastes. But, of course that would mean more maintenance and added cost. I wish I had a dime for all the sail track stops that went overboard. I got my replacement at West Marine; Davis flat-side in-track part #2352 for $8.99. And like Jeff said, I now tie it to the boom goose neck. The Davis model I got has a small hole in it and can easily be tied with fishing line. Happy sailing! Kris
F
Frank Ladd
Temporary slide stop
You can just wrap a bungee under the bottom slide enought times that it will be tight enough so it does not move easiely. It will work pretty well as a slide stop and often these temporary fixes become the permanent solution. Slide stops should be tied to the mast. There are many ways to do it, but the original dealer or boat rigger was likely in a hurry to get the boat out the door and didn't take care of the nice little details that show quality work.
You can just wrap a bungee under the bottom slide enought times that it will be tight enough so it does not move easiely. It will work pretty well as a slide stop and often these temporary fixes become the permanent solution. Slide stops should be tied to the mast. There are many ways to do it, but the original dealer or boat rigger was likely in a hurry to get the boat out the door and didn't take care of the nice little details that show quality work.
R
Rock Smith
VARA Cassette Design Sucks
While I too love my 04 216, I wish they did more r&d on the rudder assembly before launching the model. I remove and repair every year and now have an agreement with Hunter to replace it completely. Using self tapping metal screws to secure the cassette into the hull needlessly perforates the structure. The only thing good about hte design is when I have the boat in shallows, I can yank up the rudder pronto.
While I too love my 04 216, I wish they did more r&d on the rudder assembly before launching the model. I remove and repair every year and now have an agreement with Hunter to replace it completely. Using self tapping metal screws to secure the cassette into the hull needlessly perforates the structure. The only thing good about hte design is when I have the boat in shallows, I can yank up the rudder pronto.
J
Jeff Prideaux
Sail Stop for H216
I had lost my sail stop so I ordered a couple of "Davis flat-side in-track part #2352" but they were too large to insert into the opening to the mast track. I'll try the smaller size next (#2351)...
I had lost my sail stop so I ordered a couple of "Davis flat-side in-track part #2352" but they were too large to insert into the opening to the mast track. I'll try the smaller size next (#2351)...
J
Jeff Prideaux
sail track stop
I just tried the following sail track stop and it fit my 216 mast just fine. Track Stop f/Small Flat Grooves-1/8"Dx7/16"W- 2351 Thats Davis model 2351. It has a built-in hole where you can tie a fishing line or something. I now have two of them on my mast and have fishing line attached to them. BTW, I had a great time sailing my H216 on Saturday with the family. The wind was perfect. My "knot stick" told be I was going being 6 and 7 knots (throught the water) a lot of the time.
I just tried the following sail track stop and it fit my 216 mast just fine. Track Stop f/Small Flat Grooves-1/8"Dx7/16"W- 2351 Thats Davis model 2351. It has a built-in hole where you can tie a fishing line or something. I now have two of them on my mast and have fishing line attached to them. BTW, I had a great time sailing my H216 on Saturday with the family. The wind was perfect. My "knot stick" told be I was going being 6 and 7 knots (throught the water) a lot of the time.
Sail Track Stop
After losing a few sail stops (I lost them trailering...not underway) I abandoned the factory supplied sail stop and instead used a quick release pin with a halyard attached to the mast. I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the mast for the pin just above the opening where you insert the sail slugs. It is not perfect but it works and us **much quicker** for set up/tear down then the factory supplied stop. My pin looks like the simple quick release pin in the link.
After losing a few sail stops (I lost them trailering...not underway) I abandoned the factory supplied sail stop and instead used a quick release pin with a halyard attached to the mast. I drilled a 1/4 inch hole in the mast for the pin just above the opening where you insert the sail slugs. It is not perfect but it works and us **much quicker** for set up/tear down then the factory supplied stop. My pin looks like the simple quick release pin in the link.
J
Jeff Prideaux
very cleaver!!
I like that idea of using quick release pins. One could get the same size pin as needed on other parts of the boat and have the extra benefit of being able to use the "sale stop" pin somewhere else if needed.
I like that idea of using quick release pins. One could get the same size pin as needed on other parts of the boat and have the extra benefit of being able to use the "sale stop" pin somewhere else if needed.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.