What is the difference between cleaning, waxing, polishing and protecting. I have a Beneteau 2001 and looks pretty good but I want to do what I can to maintain the fiberglass, what should I do if anything? Is Turtle Wax for auto's the same thing?
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Try this -
1 - search the archives here for a ton of assistance 2 - use 303 Protectant and forget wax
1 - search the archives here for a ton of assistance 2 - use 303 Protectant and forget wax
Not a water based product.
Suggest you read their product specifications. I have been using 303 on a 1973 26 ft. sailboat for the past 3 years. I do the topsides with it in April, and it lasts for a year in our climate here on Lake Ontario. The gloss and protection is far better than any wax. This is from their website (link below) - "Does 303 replace Wax on Fiberglass? Gelcoat fiberglass is polyester resin with the pigment in the resin, commonly used in boats, RV’s, snowmobiles, jet ski’s, etc. Gelcoat fiberglass rapidly fades and chalks with traditional maintenance being tedious and repetitive buffing and waxing. 303 Aerospace Protectant is an alternative to buffing and waxing. 303 restores like new color and gloss to faded gelcoat fiberglass by spraying on and polishing completely dry. A new appearance is maintained with periodic spray on/wipe off applications usually every 45-60 days of exposure. Fiberglass shines. Colors stay bright. In addition, the 303’d surface is extremely repellent to water, soiling and staining…staying cleaner longer and clean up is much easier when soiled. So for gelcoat fiberglass 303 Aerospace Protectant is a superior with respect to ease of use, level of protection, appearance and repellency." Have a look at their "Recommended By - " page. Pretty impressive I would say.
Suggest you read their product specifications. I have been using 303 on a 1973 26 ft. sailboat for the past 3 years. I do the topsides with it in April, and it lasts for a year in our climate here on Lake Ontario. The gloss and protection is far better than any wax. This is from their website (link below) - "Does 303 replace Wax on Fiberglass? Gelcoat fiberglass is polyester resin with the pigment in the resin, commonly used in boats, RV’s, snowmobiles, jet ski’s, etc. Gelcoat fiberglass rapidly fades and chalks with traditional maintenance being tedious and repetitive buffing and waxing. 303 Aerospace Protectant is an alternative to buffing and waxing. 303 restores like new color and gloss to faded gelcoat fiberglass by spraying on and polishing completely dry. A new appearance is maintained with periodic spray on/wipe off applications usually every 45-60 days of exposure. Fiberglass shines. Colors stay bright. In addition, the 303’d surface is extremely repellent to water, soiling and staining…staying cleaner longer and clean up is much easier when soiled. So for gelcoat fiberglass 303 Aerospace Protectant is a superior with respect to ease of use, level of protection, appearance and repellency." Have a look at their "Recommended By - " page. Pretty impressive I would say.
303 on hulls/gelcoat
Not to dispute your experience but the only objective test would be to use 303 on part of the gelcoat or paint and use nothing on an adjacent area and observe the difference. 303 has it's uses in waterproofing canvas but the claims for protection on hard surfaces are dubious. Regarding it's water base - I just tried mixing it with some water and it is clealy completely soluable. And yes, I do have too much free time - Go Patriots!
Not to dispute your experience but the only objective test would be to use 303 on part of the gelcoat or paint and use nothing on an adjacent area and observe the difference. 303 has it's uses in waterproofing canvas but the claims for protection on hard surfaces are dubious. Regarding it's water base - I just tried mixing it with some water and it is clealy completely soluable. And yes, I do have too much free time - Go Patriots!
Don't use 303 Part 2
I researched 303 extensively before I tried it on a small portion of my gelcoat (and plastic trim on my car). Since 303 was new to me I wanted to learn all about it before I used it on my boat and/or car.I read that info that you copied from their website and all other info on the 303 website.. I read many reviews on using 303 on plastic auto trim. I was convinced it was the next great undiscovered product. It caused white streaking on my plastic trim parts on my car. When I tested 303 on gelcoat (applied as they recommeneded)it showed no improvement in gloss, appearance or UV protection. So I discontinued use. And Yes it is waterbase, that's why its safe to use on many different surfaces... As you can see I did my homework first. Since 303 was very easy to use, much easier than polishing and waxing I really wanted it to work...but it did not. I now use Mothers Back to Black on all my auto trim and some boat trim like the rubrail. It is really amazing stuff.
I researched 303 extensively before I tried it on a small portion of my gelcoat (and plastic trim on my car). Since 303 was new to me I wanted to learn all about it before I used it on my boat and/or car.I read that info that you copied from their website and all other info on the 303 website.. I read many reviews on using 303 on plastic auto trim. I was convinced it was the next great undiscovered product. It caused white streaking on my plastic trim parts on my car. When I tested 303 on gelcoat (applied as they recommeneded)it showed no improvement in gloss, appearance or UV protection. So I discontinued use. And Yes it is waterbase, that's why its safe to use on many different surfaces... As you can see I did my homework first. Since 303 was very easy to use, much easier than polishing and waxing I really wanted it to work...but it did not. I now use Mothers Back to Black on all my auto trim and some boat trim like the rubrail. It is really amazing stuff.
There are differnt versions of 303 .....
The most common .... One is a weather protectant (303 Fabric Guard -Protectant) and the other is a UV block (303 Aerospace Protectant) .... neither is to gain 'gloss'. Been using both for aeons - on my subrella and on my convertible vinyl tops; all with GREAT results.
The most common .... One is a weather protectant (303 Fabric Guard -Protectant) and the other is a UV block (303 Aerospace Protectant) .... neither is to gain 'gloss'. Been using both for aeons - on my subrella and on my convertible vinyl tops; all with GREAT results.
303 is water based
Just spoke to Roger a tech guy at 303 products in Palo Cedro, CA. He confirmed that 303 is a water based product, in fact it's "92% deionzed water". I asked about gelcoat applications and he said for 303 to be effective you have to first remove all soil, wax and other contaminents on the gelcoat for 303 to properly bond to the gelcoat. This cleaning/removing step alone would be a huge job for most boatowners so now the polishing waxing doesn't seem too bad.
Just spoke to Roger a tech guy at 303 products in Palo Cedro, CA. He confirmed that 303 is a water based product, in fact it's "92% deionzed water". I asked about gelcoat applications and he said for 303 to be effective you have to first remove all soil, wax and other contaminents on the gelcoat for 303 to properly bond to the gelcoat. This cleaning/removing step alone would be a huge job for most boatowners so now the polishing waxing doesn't seem too bad.
Wax removes itself in less than 6 months.
There isn't a wax made that will last longer with the uv rays eating it up. So wax removal is simple. A mixture of simple green and water or Black Streak Remover will get the other gunk off. Now you are down to your basic gelcoat. 303 Protectant works for me and thousands of others who read the instructions and followed the correct application directions. I have been doing spring polishing of boats for the past 15 years, and the longlasting protection and shiny gloss I get on my topsides is not from wax. Waxing and buffing never gave me the glossy long lasting finish I have been getting for the past 3 years from 303. Use it on the plastic instrument covers as well - they will last forever and always look shiny and new. Everyone to their own.
There isn't a wax made that will last longer with the uv rays eating it up. So wax removal is simple. A mixture of simple green and water or Black Streak Remover will get the other gunk off. Now you are down to your basic gelcoat. 303 Protectant works for me and thousands of others who read the instructions and followed the correct application directions. I have been doing spring polishing of boats for the past 15 years, and the longlasting protection and shiny gloss I get on my topsides is not from wax. Waxing and buffing never gave me the glossy long lasting finish I have been getting for the past 3 years from 303. Use it on the plastic instrument covers as well - they will last forever and always look shiny and new. Everyone to their own.
wax or not
I don't understand why everyone doesn't use Poly Glow. Its easy, has a nice glossy look, its easy to take off, it won't cause you to have to ware out your gel coat.
I don't understand why everyone doesn't use Poly Glow. Its easy, has a nice glossy look, its easy to take off, it won't cause you to have to ware out your gel coat.
Wachy Wax
Complete wax removal can be tough. Most waxes contain petroleum distillates and polymers. These polymers create a tough molecular bond to the gelcoat for protection from UV A and B and the harsh marine environment,to make wax last longer, and to keep that hard earned gloss last longer. I don't think a quick hull wash would be enough to completely remove all gelcoat contaminants so that you could properly apply 303. It sounds like you are only doing topsides with 303, we are mostly chatting about hull waxing.. Cheers
Complete wax removal can be tough. Most waxes contain petroleum distillates and polymers. These polymers create a tough molecular bond to the gelcoat for protection from UV A and B and the harsh marine environment,to make wax last longer, and to keep that hard earned gloss last longer. I don't think a quick hull wash would be enough to completely remove all gelcoat contaminants so that you could properly apply 303. It sounds like you are only doing topsides with 303, we are mostly chatting about hull waxing.. Cheers
jimq26
check out the chemical formulation or MSDSs for 303 protectorant and that of Scotchguard - you are scotchguarding your topsides and hull! Not necessarily bad but being water soluable, I sure hope it doesn't rain much after...
As other have pointed out, there's no such thing as a free lunch but maybe it tastes better if you think it's free
check out the chemical formulation or MSDSs for 303 protectorant and that of Scotchguard - you are scotchguarding your topsides and hull! Not necessarily bad but being water soluable, I sure hope it doesn't rain much after...
As other have pointed out, there's no such thing as a free lunch but maybe it tastes better if you think it's free
Wachy Waxers Unite
Thanks Maine Sail and Don H 40.5 for your informed responses. jimq26 does not acknowledge he was wrong about 303 being water based. Maybe I was wrong but I thought topsides meant the top of the boat(non skid,seats,hatches,etc) and the hull was the hull, not part of topsides. My mistake, Can someone clear that up maybe? Both 303's can be great products when used appropriately... I am going to try Collinite's cleaners and waxes this year. I think Practical Sailer gave Collinite products great reviews... I think Maine Sail is as "nutty" over waxing boats as I am...Very nice treatment on the subject!
Thanks Maine Sail and Don H 40.5 for your informed responses. jimq26 does not acknowledge he was wrong about 303 being water based. Maybe I was wrong but I thought topsides meant the top of the boat(non skid,seats,hatches,etc) and the hull was the hull, not part of topsides. My mistake, Can someone clear that up maybe? Both 303's can be great products when used appropriately... I am going to try Collinite's cleaners and waxes this year. I think Practical Sailer gave Collinite products great reviews... I think Maine Sail is as "nutty" over waxing boats as I am...Very nice treatment on the subject!
Larry
Seems like the conventional wisdom is Collinite is the best. One suggestion which you might already know - there are a few versions of Collinite wax, one being a light tan color in the bottle - can't remember which # it is. If your topsides is white, make sure you don't use that one.
Seems like the conventional wisdom is Collinite is the best. One suggestion which you might already know - there are a few versions of Collinite wax, one being a light tan color in the bottle - can't remember which # it is. If your topsides is white, make sure you don't use that one.
Collinite Wax
Don, The Collinite that I use is number 845, and is called Insulator Wax. Collinite is made about ten miles from where I live, and I called the factory to ask about their boat wax. The fellow in the lab that I spoke to said that the boat and Insulator Wax were that same product. He said that I should stick to the Insulator Wax because it was easier to apply. They make the boat wax so people will know it can be used on boats, but there was no advantage to using it. I also use their number 840 Sapphire prewax cleaner. This product is a mind blower. The factory said that it should be used before the wax is applied. I took their advice and you should too. It makes all the differance in the world. It will clean all the chalk off the boat and looks better than most wax jobs when you are done. When using the wax make sure the temp. is in the 60's or better. If it is to cold that wax does not want to come off when buffed. I made that mistake the first time I used the product. I feel that this is the best product on the market. Buy the way it is call Insulator Wax because it was developed for high tension electric insulators. It was applied to protect them from the weather. I apply it in the fall and it still looks great the next fall. You will love it Dale
Don, The Collinite that I use is number 845, and is called Insulator Wax. Collinite is made about ten miles from where I live, and I called the factory to ask about their boat wax. The fellow in the lab that I spoke to said that the boat and Insulator Wax were that same product. He said that I should stick to the Insulator Wax because it was easier to apply. They make the boat wax so people will know it can be used on boats, but there was no advantage to using it. I also use their number 840 Sapphire prewax cleaner. This product is a mind blower. The factory said that it should be used before the wax is applied. I took their advice and you should too. It makes all the differance in the world. It will clean all the chalk off the boat and looks better than most wax jobs when you are done. When using the wax make sure the temp. is in the 60's or better. If it is to cold that wax does not want to come off when buffed. I made that mistake the first time I used the product. I feel that this is the best product on the market. Buy the way it is call Insulator Wax because it was developed for high tension electric insulators. It was applied to protect them from the weather. I apply it in the fall and it still looks great the next fall. You will love it Dale
You should never use a buffer to....
Quote: "When using the wax make sure the temp. is in the 60's or better. If it is to cold that wax does not want to come off when buffed." I hope you're not using a machine buffer to remove wax. You should remove wax by hand with Micro Fiber detailing cloths. Using a buffer will re-melt the cured wax leaving very little protection on the surface. Buffers are for compounding and polishing only and should not be used for applying or removing wax. Nothing works better than Micro Fiber for removing dry wax residue. Once you use one you'll wonder how or why you ever used a buffer or terry cloth towels. It takes no time to wax a boat with Micro Fiber and even Pure Carnuba paste waxes like the Colinite #885 come off with ease.
Quote: "When using the wax make sure the temp. is in the 60's or better. If it is to cold that wax does not want to come off when buffed." I hope you're not using a machine buffer to remove wax. You should remove wax by hand with Micro Fiber detailing cloths. Using a buffer will re-melt the cured wax leaving very little protection on the surface. Buffers are for compounding and polishing only and should not be used for applying or removing wax. Nothing works better than Micro Fiber for removing dry wax residue. Once you use one you'll wonder how or why you ever used a buffer or terry cloth towels. It takes no time to wax a boat with Micro Fiber and even Pure Carnuba paste waxes like the Colinite #885 come off with ease.
Cleaning and waxing Products
OK what web sites do you guys use for all your cleaning and waxing products,buffing machines,I once had a great web sit for all kinds of good stuff but lost it. Would love to see more places to find all this great stuff made easy.
OK what web sites do you guys use for all your cleaning and waxing products,buffing machines,I once had a great web sit for all kinds of good stuff but lost it. Would love to see more places to find all this great stuff made easy.
By hand
Maine Sail I buff out my wax by hand, not with a buffer. The temp. range came from Collinite, not from me. They said that if the hull feels cold to the touch, you should wait for it to warm up some. I have not used the Micro fiber cloth, but sounds like a good idea. Seadaddler, I see you live downstate. Collinite is made in Utica NY, so I am sure you can find it in any auto store. If they do not have it they can probably order it for you. It is well worth the search. Dale
Maine Sail I buff out my wax by hand, not with a buffer. The temp. range came from Collinite, not from me. They said that if the hull feels cold to the touch, you should wait for it to warm up some. I have not used the Micro fiber cloth, but sounds like a good idea. Seadaddler, I see you live downstate. Collinite is made in Utica NY, so I am sure you can find it in any auto store. If they do not have it they can probably order it for you. It is well worth the search. Dale
Hey Larry - re topsides
The area between the waterline and the deck on a boat is called the topsides.
The area between the waterline and the deck on a boat is called the topsides.
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