I'm assuming the 34 and 5 have a "shoe box" type hull deck, i.e deck laps over outside of hull. If so, I'm your man, as I am in the middle of doing my 30, which I found was assembled with pretty much no sealant at all. Clearly someone on the assembly floor had a bright idea to do things quick and clean. First thing: there is a lip along the top edge of the hull which was a 1/4" ply about 2" wide glassed in. On the 30 it ran on the forward 2/3 of the hull. Its purpose was/is to add rigidity to the hull so in bolting the deck ripples in hull are not formed. You will have to rip this out as it will be all soft and rotted. I replaced mine with strips ripped from a good quality fir 2x4, adhered with thickened epoxy, and the wood totally painted with epoxy. I then redrilled and and fastened with new 1/4 - 20's screws, about 150 required (find a Fastenal dealer near you) and lots of 5200 injected up into joint. Obviously, this is a 2 person job and it is messy. You want 5200 because 1.) It does not cure fast, 2.) Its strong as hell, and I'm never doing this again. Also, O'Days have a flexible hull and you want a sealant that is flexible. The rub rail replacement appears to be easy however I didn't want to drill a whole set of new holes as the rail already is drilled enough. So, save the old rub rail and you can transfer that hole pattern by over laying on new rub rail. A nice clean, warm house deck will help as the new rub rail is a bitch to handle and lay out flat. I also made backing plates to go under each rub rail fastener which supports the rub rail and further ties the deck-hull joint together (with another 150 #10 screws. But that's me, as I am aiming to make the boat blue water capable. Will send photos if you like..