Iam considering installing headliner material for My hull lining & replacing the countertop material. If anyone has done these things any advice would be appreciated. Particularly to know if you can glue laminate over the existing counter top.
- Status
Counter Top
Yes you can as long as the existing top is secure with out any depressions or loose spots,clean it and sand it so the new mica cement will hold. Try and get the old stuff that is dangerous if not vented properly. The new stuff works but make sure it is completely dry on mica and plywood before bonding together. If,what you are working with is tough to handle,lay brown paper on surface,mica on top of it and slide the paper out when all is lined up[if paper sticks its not dry enough]press down on areas as paper slides,we used to do this on large tops when we were alone,used to be a contractor but never retired, I just quit.
Yes you can as long as the existing top is secure with out any depressions or loose spots,clean it and sand it so the new mica cement will hold. Try and get the old stuff that is dangerous if not vented properly. The new stuff works but make sure it is completely dry on mica and plywood before bonding together. If,what you are working with is tough to handle,lay brown paper on surface,mica on top of it and slide the paper out when all is lined up[if paper sticks its not dry enough]press down on areas as paper slides,we used to do this on large tops when we were alone,used to be a contractor but never retired, I just quit.
Interior Mods
With respect to the liner, the original fabric was so nasty I decided that it was not a good idea. I simply removed the old stuff and painted interior hull surfaces white. Tom's right about formica. I haven't used paper technique. I use a bunch of wooden dowels to keep seperate until everything is lined up. On my 25 (1974 model) I pulled the old top out and used it to make a pattern for new top. If yours is the same as mine, you will need to eliminate the portion of the top that overhangs into the starboard lazerette. The original top must have been installed before the deck because there is no way to get it in or out in one piece. Good luck.
With respect to the liner, the original fabric was so nasty I decided that it was not a good idea. I simply removed the old stuff and painted interior hull surfaces white. Tom's right about formica. I haven't used paper technique. I use a bunch of wooden dowels to keep seperate until everything is lined up. On my 25 (1974 model) I pulled the old top out and used it to make a pattern for new top. If yours is the same as mine, you will need to eliminate the portion of the top that overhangs into the starboard lazerette. The original top must have been installed before the deck because there is no way to get it in or out in one piece. Good luck.
headliner
We gutted a 1978 H25 and used headliner to cover all of the interior walls.Bought it for appx$6/linear yard(roll was 6 ft wide).Used 3M headliner spray adhesive(do not use the heavy duty adhesive because it bleeds through).Material was relatively easy to work with and generally as each piece went up,there was far more agonizing than action.The backing did a good job of hiding the warts and bumps on the rough fiberglass.and the finished product looks good,provides a bit of insulation from the cold,and serves as a noise buffer.You need two pairs of hands to handle the material and get it in place.The slight stiffness of the material reduced the threat of wrinkles as it was installed.As I recall,it took about 10-12 cans of adhesive and this cost more than the material.Preparation is the key and all walls must be scraped clean of old adhesive,dirt,etc.
We gutted a 1978 H25 and used headliner to cover all of the interior walls.Bought it for appx$6/linear yard(roll was 6 ft wide).Used 3M headliner spray adhesive(do not use the heavy duty adhesive because it bleeds through).Material was relatively easy to work with and generally as each piece went up,there was far more agonizing than action.The backing did a good job of hiding the warts and bumps on the rough fiberglass.and the finished product looks good,provides a bit of insulation from the cold,and serves as a noise buffer.You need two pairs of hands to handle the material and get it in place.The slight stiffness of the material reduced the threat of wrinkles as it was installed.As I recall,it took about 10-12 cans of adhesive and this cost more than the material.Preparation is the key and all walls must be scraped clean of old adhesive,dirt,etc.
- Status