Greetings Sailors. A few quick questions for the Hunter 30 gang. Where is the Id plate on the boat physically located, how do you read the hull id number and most important, what type oil to use on an old Yanmar YSM12 diesel sailed on the Chesapeake? Thanks.
Hull Id plate location/YSM oil type
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the 33 has the id number on the top right of the transom embossed in to the gelcoat it would make sense that they were consistent between the models but who knows, i would expect that engine would take 10w-30 as that is what my yanmar takes but you should double check that
Thanks for the quick reply Redbeard. In my on-line research I have seen everything from single grade 30 to multi-weight oil, syn-blend and pure synthetic. Synthetic oil is not recommended for older engines, but I haven't seen the reason. I suspect detergent or foaming additives are harmful to seals? Also, would there be a boat placard or impression in the cabin somewhere?
ive heard the same thing about synthetics in older engines and would agree that it would have to do with some kind of additive not getting along with the older style seals but not sure either way, i debated the straight weight/multi weight oil myself when i first got mine but came accross another forum that reccomended multi weight for regions which get cold weather, on the chesapeake i think we qualify haha but im not sure if a smaller engine might do better on straight weight i was suggesting that purely based on my own engine so take it with a grain of salt, also check your bilge my boat also had the hull # stuck on with plastic letters and resin painted over (not sure if that was factory or done by PO), does yours not have it embossed on the transom?
On my 1979 Hunter 30 with YSM 12 diesel I have been using 30 weight Delco diesel oil for years without a problem.
The hull number is on the starboard side of stern at the top. This is stamped into the stern.
If you are now on the hard and looking for a winter cover, go to owner mods for old 30's and review the posting. I have use this for years.
The hull number is on the starboard side of stern at the top. This is stamped into the stern.
If you are now on the hard and looking for a winter cover, go to owner mods for old 30's and review the posting. I have use this for years.
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Thanks again Redbeard and Ian. Okay, I got the number HUN50951M781, so what does it mean? I can guess manufactured in Jan 78, but what is the hull or sail number? The current sail inventory offers no clue. I love the clever use of greenhouse supplies for a boat tent, however this boat will stay in the water and be easily monitored for snow buildup. Have you done or anyone done any mast step repair? Looks to me that the I-beam section in the bildge,at the mast step, is starting to flake away.
Normally we would expect your hull id to read "HUN 30 xxx M78I". The 'I' is an April build and the 'xxx' the hull number. Is it possible that 951 H30s were made by April of 1978? Maybe if the first ones were built in 1974.
http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm
http://boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm
Had a ysb 12 on the bay till this summer. Issue with oil type at this stage in the engines life is compression. The original spec was for 30 weight. If it is using oil quickly going to 40 and even higher will help. best evidence of an issue is blue color in smoke. If out of adjustment black smoke may hide the blue.
It will improve power and cut smoke down only down side is engine will be marginally harder to start but my old engine never was hard to start even with 50 near the end.
While the engine is weak it is a very rugged one and simple to keep running. I just got tired of doing 1 knot in the face of a 4 knot current and my starter and ring gear needed work which was going to require a pull so loved the boat enough to spring for the new plant.
It will improve power and cut smoke down only down side is engine will be marginally harder to start but my old engine never was hard to start even with 50 near the end.
While the engine is weak it is a very rugged one and simple to keep running. I just got tired of doing 1 knot in the face of a 4 knot current and my starter and ring gear needed work which was going to require a pull so loved the boat enough to spring for the new plant.
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