Hull divot

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Phil Decker

Somehow in the past few weeks, I must have rubbed against a bolt head on the dock, and chewed a divot the size of 50 cents into the hull of my boat. It's about 4 inches above the waterline, about .040" deep, and exposes some glass fibers. No visible leaks, though. Until I haul her out in the fall, two questions: 1) What CAN I do about it? 2) What SHOULD I do about it, if anything? S/V "Catmandu" 1982 Catalina 27, tall rig, traditional, Atomic 4
 
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Bayard Gross

Five minute epoxy

I would use some of that five minute epoxy on your damage. That would be the best action to prevent water damage. You can make it pretty in the fall or spring. This epoxy comes in two side by side tubes. You cut off the ends of the tubes and a plunger dispenses equal amounts of epoxy resin and hardener. You will need a small flat board to mix up the epoxy for a minute or so before applying it to the "divot". There is also the same style package with an epoxy that takes longer to set up which may be easier to use if you think you will just have a rock hard pile of resin on a board since you may not work quickly enough. This epoxy is probably least expensive in a Wal Mart or Home Depot. But just about any department store will have it. You may even find it at Bean's as it may be used to quickly repair canoes. If fact, you could even get a canoe there so you could get easy acess to your "divot". By the way, can you tell me how to get to Paul's Marina on Mere Point from Brunswick?
 
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Dave

Duct Tape!!

Duct Tape can fix almost anything!! just kidding of course. Only problem with epoxy is it is not UV resistant so the sun can cause damage. I'm sure it would get you through the year. They also make "Marine Tex" which is white and the consistency of silly putty, you mix with a hardener and it also hardens quickly. Might be more UV resistant..not sure. Easy to sand afterwards. A little trick of the trade whatever you use...cover the repair with plastic food wrap which you can stretch so it applies a slight pressure to the repair, then tape it in place until it hardens. The plastic wrap will make the repair nice and smooth so you have less finish work afterwards. Dave
 
Jan 22, 2003
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Hunter 25_73-83 Burlington NJ
Marine-Tex... for now.

Go with Marine-Tex. It'll even come in white and not look obnoxious. Sand out with 60 grit, maybe 80 (don't let the sandpaper get wet), then wipe thoroughly with acetone (if you don't use too much at a time it'll soak in or evaporate before dribbling into the water). Then fill with Marine-Tex. Use wet-and-dry to fair it in when it's cured. Doing this from the water is easy, even fun-- sit in a life-vest jacket, like a floating seat-- you'll be at just the right level. You have a never-ending supply of water for wet-sanding. (Note: wet-and-dry sandpaper sinks.) Inspect frequently for adhesion throughout the season. Next haul-out, if looks bad to the eye or has come out at all, grind it all out and patch and fair in with gelcoat (don't forget to mix in the wax!). Marine-Tex is not really permanent, and it grows porous over time. The most important thing is keeping the dry fibreglass cloth dry and sealed up, and that's what gelcoat is for. JC
 
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Gord May

Good TEMPORARY advice

posted by Dave & Bayard, but remember it's TEMPORARY. Next haulout, grind & bevel (12:1) 'divot', then fill with thickened epoxy,then over-coat /w UV coat. For more info' see: (url)www.westsystem.com(/url) Regards, Gord
 
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Phil Decker

Green duct tape, for the starboard side.

Thanks for the duct tape advice! I didn't know Marine-Tex came in white, since I already have the gray crap. I will look for the white.
 
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