Hull depression cnc 25

[Ekvh]

Picked up a C&C 25 for a song on EBay. Advertised as sail worthy with a solid hull. It was noted to have gel coat cracks appropriate for age. Besides a rickety trailer which I posted about, when getting there it has a significant depression on one of the jacks, the middle starboard side, and from it eminates a pretty large amount of cracks. It appears to my untrained eye to have too much pressure on that jack and not enough on the others. He is insisting it is structurally sound and that it is normal to bow in some on the pads over winter. I am not afraid of a little work, and knew that when I bought it.

Others have opined that the trailer looks wrong for the boat, ie. it is not built for that boat. Pads do not sound like they are on bulkheads. He is an engineer, me.....not so much.

Truth is, I don't know. He says it's only fiberglass there. I'll attach some pics but I don't think it shows the damage well. Does this look structurally sound? Also he says it's all fiberglass, but aren't there wooden ribs in the fiberglass which can get soft, waterlogged or rot? Any opinions welcome. I have $720 in the boat, cheap, but could get to be thousands even doing the work myself.

As always, thanks in advance.

 

[Ekvh]

Another pic

 

[Ekvh]

Another, pics are kind of meaningless, but you can see where it's sitting on the trailer

 

[MrBill_FLL]

I can't tell much by the photos posted. maybe put a batten on the hull to show deflection.

some boats like macgregor do flex on a trailer. (but mostly when using the wrong supports) but I don't think that boat should.


my question is what else is wrong. (engine, sails, running/standing rigging).
or, how much $ to make it work for your needs... (vs buying a nice example).




ebay boats are risky...

 

[Jackdaw]

Your pictures are very small and pretty much worthless!

If a keelboat improperly sits on a improper trailer, you can create pressure divots in the hull. Ideally the weight of the boat should rest on its keel, and the pads should be at bulkheads.

Now to the divot. Fiberglass will safely flex more than gellcoat or most bottom paints. If just the paint has cracked easy paint job. If the gellcoat has cracked, that's more work but not structural. If there has been structural damage (delamination) to the fiberglass you have a job on your hands.

Step one is to get the load off that pad and see what you got. First thing that has to happen is the hull snaps back to it original shape.

PS - you never get anything 'for a song' on ebay. No one in the world was willing to more for the boat than you!

 

[Sandy Stone]

Does the C&C 25 have a balsa-cored hull? A lot of C&C's did. A significant depression in a cored hull can mean problems, as in delamination of the balsa from the fiberglass skins, and loss of hull strength in that area. If a solid glass hull, maybe not such a big deal.

 

[Jackdaw]

Does the C&C 25 have a balsa-cored hull? A lot of C&C's did. A significant depression in a cored hull can mean problems, as in delamination of the balsa from the fiberglass skins, and loss of hull strength in that area. If a solid glass hull, maybe not such a big deal.

Sandy,

A great point. I'm pretty sure that C&C cored hulls starting in like 1977, and only in boats over 33 feet. So I'd assume the 25 was solid glass.

 

[Ekvh]

So I may be safe? This is a 74 or 75. It looks to me like I will need a complete gel coat of the boat. Doing it yourself, how expensive a job is that? And thanks for the replies.

 

[Ekvh]

Maybe this is larger.

 

[dlochner]

Maybe this is larger.

Nope.

As Jackdaw said, the weight of boat should sit on the keel with the pads serving to stabilize the boat. (same for cradles and jack stands)

Check the bulkhead tabbing, is it cracked or delaminated?

Lift the boat with a travelift and tap the hull, if it is delaminated you will hear it.

Five years ago I had a Sabre 30 gel coated as part of a more extensive repair. The cost for the gel coating was around $8K. There are cheaper solutions for an older boat.