How to UNBED this cleat to rebed!?!?!?!

weinie

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Sep 6, 2010
1,297
Jeanneau 349 port washington, ny
I am finally getting around to re-bedding my bow cleats on my catalina 27. It's a real pain in the rear because the nuts under the deck are sandwiched with just about 2 inches of room between the hull and the recessed anchor locker AND they are about about two arms lengths from where one can sit at the front of the v-berth and see them. I have one of two ways to get at them in mind. I purchased a 17" ratchet type tool with a 90 degree bend at the socket end, (it looks like a ratchet, but dosn't turn; you have to remove it each time from the nut after turning it a bit) that might work to hold the nut while someone on deck turns the screws. Or, I could cut two 4" inspection ports into each side of the anchor locker. Of course I will be using MS's world famous butyl tape to re-bed the cleats! Either way I proceed, I will be screwing the bolt into the nut, rather than screwing the nut onto the bolt which I know is not the preferred method, though it is my only option in this particular situation.

OK here's the REAL problem. Although I haven't loosened the nut from the bottom yet, one of the two screws on one cleat is not budging at all when I tried to unscrew it and the head of the screw is getting mangled. It's probably because I USED MARINE TEX EPOXY IN THE SCREW HOLE a couple of years ago when I didn't really have a clue of how to properly get access to the nut.

How the heck do I get this thing out? If I cut in the above mention access panel, I might be able to bang it out a bit, but I would thing I might end of taking most of the deck out along with the cleat. I guess that means drilling it out, but I really would hate to damage the cleat and then I would still have to epoxy the now larger hole and I just don't have any good access from underneath to do a nice clean job.

Basically, I'm hoping to get a couple of tips to make this job go as smoothly possible.
 
Nov 23, 2011
2,023
MacGregor 26D London Ontario Canada
See above first.
When you drill it out start with a smaller drill bit. This will allow you to direct the drill so you are drilling the center of the bolt and not the cleat. Once you have it on its way switch to a larger bit. (The size of the bolt shaft.) You will have to direct it still just not as much. If it keeps going off track use a center punch to mark a hole and start with the small bit again.
Oh SS is very hard so have about 3 of each bit on hand before you start. Get good drill bits.
 
Last edited:
May 31, 2007
773
Hunter 37 cutter Blind River
Drilling stainless use very low rpms and lots of cutting oil. Don't over heat by drilling fast. Stainless work hardens in a heartbeat and then you are snookered. Super sharp bits are important.
 

bria46

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Jan 15, 2011
286
Oday 272 Waukegan, IL, Sarasota, FL
I use a hand drill. Anything faster than 15 to 30 RPMs is going to mess you up!
 

weinie

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Sep 6, 2010
1,297
Jeanneau 349 port washington, ny
Joe,
I never even knew something like that existed! But I just bought one at ace hardware along with two 10" ratchet extensions. This should do the trick (I hope!)