Howdy. I'm refinishing a 41 foot Irwin. The anchor chain drags over fine teak on the bow platform. It will only be a matter of months before the chain scratches off the varnish that I apply. Any bright thoughts on how to protect the brightwork?
How to stop anchor chain dragging on teak?
- Thread starter Fred The Finisher
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metal plate
Typically a brass or bronze plate will cover the teak where the chain slides over the pulpit. The Nov.- Dec. issue of Good Old Boat has a good artical on installing an anchor windlass and described the process of choosing plate material.
Typically a brass or bronze plate will cover the teak where the chain slides over the pulpit. The Nov.- Dec. issue of Good Old Boat has a good artical on installing an anchor windlass and described the process of choosing plate material.
starboard strips
I use a piece of starboard glued to the glass as a sacrificial piece where the chain jumps up and down and hits the glass on my boat. You could use strips of starboard at a right angle to your teak. Rick I http://groups.yahoo.com/group/beneteau393/ 393 group
I use a piece of starboard glued to the glass as a sacrificial piece where the chain jumps up and down and hits the glass on my boat. You could use strips of starboard at a right angle to your teak. Rick I http://groups.yahoo.com/group/beneteau393/ 393 group
Both the previous
are excellent suggestions. I have also used UHMW as a sacrificial piece. It is slippery and wears better than any other material. You can buy a plastic chopping board which is usually UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) plastic.
are excellent suggestions. I have also used UHMW as a sacrificial piece. It is slippery and wears better than any other material. You can buy a plastic chopping board which is usually UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) plastic.
In addition to the other excellent suggestions
Lexan is a good choice for chafe protection. Old chair protectors (plastic under office chairs) turn up cheap or free, and even if you have to buy one new (horrors!, it's a lot of material for the price. Some are Lexan (polycorbonate) and some look a lot like UHMW polyethelene. Either material cuts easily with wood tools and makes great protectors. Drill the screw holes oversize so it won't crack and use a flexible sealant if it needs to be sealed. I have one old chair protector that I've cut chunks and strips off for a few years. It's less than half gone.
Lexan is a good choice for chafe protection. Old chair protectors (plastic under office chairs) turn up cheap or free, and even if you have to buy one new (horrors!, it's a lot of material for the price. Some are Lexan (polycorbonate) and some look a lot like UHMW polyethelene. Either material cuts easily with wood tools and makes great protectors. Drill the screw holes oversize so it won't crack and use a flexible sealant if it needs to be sealed. I have one old chair protector that I've cut chunks and strips off for a few years. It's less than half gone.
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