Hi; I want to set up my 87 Hunter 26.5 for and asymmetrical spinnaker. How and where do you mount a block for the tack line up by the bow? Also how and where do you mount blocks for the sheets? Pictures and recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thanks
how to rig for an asymmetrical
- Thread starter Phil M.18168
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Model 260
I have a 260. I run the tack line under the bow roller. If you so not ahve a bow roller you could you use the same type of blocks that I used for the sheets. The two sheet blocks are mounted on the stearn seat rails, as shown in the photo.
I have a 260. I run the tack line under the bow roller. If you so not ahve a bow roller you could you use the same type of blocks that I used for the sheets. The two sheet blocks are mounted on the stearn seat rails, as shown in the photo.
Why run sheets back to under stern seats?
You could use the loops on the forward rail of the stern seats set up( just below where the life lines clips on) to place you blocks. The sheets then can run back to the winch without getting in everyones way?? Just a thought. Works for me!
You could use the loops on the forward rail of the stern seats set up( just below where the life lines clips on) to place you blocks. The sheets then can run back to the winch without getting in everyones way?? Just a thought. Works for me!
Are the rails strong enough?
Denis; Good idea, nice and clean. Are the rails strong enough? Are those Schafer blocks with spring? What size line are you running for the sheets? Tack line? I don't have a bow roller. I'm probaly going to run a Schafer block with a stand up base and use a backing plate. Thanks
Denis; Good idea, nice and clean. Are the rails strong enough? Are those Schafer blocks with spring? What size line are you running for the sheets? Tack line? I don't have a bow roller. I'm probaly going to run a Schafer block with a stand up base and use a backing plate. Thanks
Mark,
Mark, First I don't trust those loops where the lifelines attach; they look pretty flimsy. You could mount the block next to those loops,but most of the time I singlehand and this way I can trim the chute while sitting at the helm. Additionally I run the sheet under the docking cleat to take the tension off, but still being able to ease them in a blow. Phil: I have been in situations where a gust would come up and the boat would lay on its side, and the weatherhelm would overcome the rudder.; the only fix was to ease the sheet at which point the chute would flap violently which in turn would cause the sheet to load and load. The blocks have held up for three years and the rail never moved. As far as line size I must admit that I am not sure since the tack line and the sheets came with the chute. The best guess is that the tack line is the size of the main sheet and the sheets the size of the jib sheets.
Mark, First I don't trust those loops where the lifelines attach; they look pretty flimsy. You could mount the block next to those loops,but most of the time I singlehand and this way I can trim the chute while sitting at the helm. Additionally I run the sheet under the docking cleat to take the tension off, but still being able to ease them in a blow. Phil: I have been in situations where a gust would come up and the boat would lay on its side, and the weatherhelm would overcome the rudder.; the only fix was to ease the sheet at which point the chute would flap violently which in turn would cause the sheet to load and load. The blocks have held up for three years and the rail never moved. As far as line size I must admit that I am not sure since the tack line and the sheets came with the chute. The best guess is that the tack line is the size of the main sheet and the sheets the size of the jib sheets.
adjustable tack line
I was thinking of adding an adjustable tackline also. I didn't think of the bow roller, but the anchor chain is there anyway. I was thinking of adding a block forward of the attachment point for the furler and running the line back to the rope clutch for the jib halyard since it is only used for raising/lowering the mast. Not sure if this will work, it is only a thought so far. Our blocks for the sheets are on the forward part of the stern rails. This would be in the bottom right corner of Denis' pic. I think this is how it is described in the manual.
I was thinking of adding an adjustable tackline also. I didn't think of the bow roller, but the anchor chain is there anyway. I was thinking of adding a block forward of the attachment point for the furler and running the line back to the rope clutch for the jib halyard since it is only used for raising/lowering the mast. Not sure if this will work, it is only a thought so far. Our blocks for the sheets are on the forward part of the stern rails. This would be in the bottom right corner of Denis' pic. I think this is how it is described in the manual.
Sheet Blocks
Planning on rigging mine next summer. I've asked this question before but didn't get any responses so I'll ask again. Any thoughts about using a block attached to the stern cleat with a small rope loop instead of bolting it down? I can't seem to think of any disadvantages but the advantages are: 1) Don't have to make any mods to the boat. 2) Can use the blocks for other things when needed to increase pulling power when not using the shute. What are the disadvantages?
Planning on rigging mine next summer. I've asked this question before but didn't get any responses so I'll ask again. Any thoughts about using a block attached to the stern cleat with a small rope loop instead of bolting it down? I can't seem to think of any disadvantages but the advantages are: 1) Don't have to make any mods to the boat. 2) Can use the blocks for other things when needed to increase pulling power when not using the shute. What are the disadvantages?
How I did it
Hi Philstr This works on my Hunter 37.5. You need 1 - 5/16" block with a snap shackle 2 - 5/16" blocks with regular shackles 2 - 5/16" sheets that are 2 times the length of your boat 1 -5/16" tack line that is 5' + the length from bow to cockpit. 1 - 1" nylon webbing with loops in both ends that is long enough to go around the rolled up jib and give you about 1.5' between the jib and where the two loops meet. I've also seen wire rope with golfball. The balls had a hole drilled through them and acted like purlins. You attach the 2 blocks w/ regular shackles to the extreem aft end of the toe rail port and starboard. You attach the block with snap shackle to the roller furling base where the jib tack attaches. You attach the nylon webbing at the spinaker tack go around the jib and back to the spinaker tack. The webbing is just how I keep the spinaker tack from blowing away from the forstay (jib). You run one sheet from the spinaker clew to the downwind sheet block and the other sheet from the spinaker clew forward around the forstay and then back to the windword sheet block. You run the tack from the spinaker tack down to the block at the jib tack and back to the cockpit. I use one bowline in the tack line to get it and the webbing attached to the spinaker tack. Don't forget to try this at dockside first to get the kinks out. I did it in light winds and it gave me headachs trying to keep all the lines onboard. Bill
Hi Philstr This works on my Hunter 37.5. You need 1 - 5/16" block with a snap shackle 2 - 5/16" blocks with regular shackles 2 - 5/16" sheets that are 2 times the length of your boat 1 -5/16" tack line that is 5' + the length from bow to cockpit. 1 - 1" nylon webbing with loops in both ends that is long enough to go around the rolled up jib and give you about 1.5' between the jib and where the two loops meet. I've also seen wire rope with golfball. The balls had a hole drilled through them and acted like purlins. You attach the 2 blocks w/ regular shackles to the extreem aft end of the toe rail port and starboard. You attach the block with snap shackle to the roller furling base where the jib tack attaches. You attach the nylon webbing at the spinaker tack go around the jib and back to the spinaker tack. The webbing is just how I keep the spinaker tack from blowing away from the forstay (jib). You run one sheet from the spinaker clew to the downwind sheet block and the other sheet from the spinaker clew forward around the forstay and then back to the windword sheet block. You run the tack from the spinaker tack down to the block at the jib tack and back to the cockpit. I use one bowline in the tack line to get it and the webbing attached to the spinaker tack. Don't forget to try this at dockside first to get the kinks out. I did it in light winds and it gave me headachs trying to keep all the lines onboard. Bill
Ashley
Actualy I have been meaning to get a third block and mount it to the vertical bar of the pull-pit just in front of the furler. This way I would be able to leave the tack line permanently installed instead of taking it in and out of the anchor roller. I like your idea of using the jib halyard clutch. I don't see why it would not work. Phil I forgot to mention that I also installed a cheeck block on the mast strut base for the tack line. it keeps it from rubbing on the deck. Franklin I don't see any problems with what you are suggesting, other than maybe when not in use the blocks would be banging on the gelcoat, unless you removed them everytime.
Actualy I have been meaning to get a third block and mount it to the vertical bar of the pull-pit just in front of the furler. This way I would be able to leave the tack line permanently installed instead of taking it in and out of the anchor roller. I like your idea of using the jib halyard clutch. I don't see why it would not work. Phil I forgot to mention that I also installed a cheeck block on the mast strut base for the tack line. it keeps it from rubbing on the deck. Franklin I don't see any problems with what you are suggesting, other than maybe when not in use the blocks would be banging on the gelcoat, unless you removed them everytime.
rigging a tackline
Ashley, we added a block on the vetical center panel of the anchor roller on our 356, and added a set of jib furling blocks/guides down the port side of the boat-a mirror image of the jib furling line. the line goes to a block on one of the pushpit/arch loops, then forward to a jam cleat on the cockpit side. works great, we can easily control the tack position from the cockpit
Ashley, we added a block on the vetical center panel of the anchor roller on our 356, and added a set of jib furling blocks/guides down the port side of the boat-a mirror image of the jib furling line. the line goes to a block on one of the pushpit/arch loops, then forward to a jam cleat on the cockpit side. works great, we can easily control the tack position from the cockpit
What chuck suggests for your tack line is a very good idea. The one thing that I would add is a sheet stopper. In heavier air, a winch is needed to get the tack down and a cleated tack line cannot be run to a winch. A sheet stopper allows for tack adjustment regardless of wind conditions.
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