Happy snow day!!! I own a 1987 28.5 shoal draft model. I am thinking of repacking the stuffing box since I am getting a bit of water while the engine runs. My question is: Do I need to remove the prop shaft to do this? I have a plastic type stuffing box.
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Have you adjusted it?
Zen: Have you tried adjusting the stuffing box yet? You are suppose to jet 3-5 drips/minute from a traditional stuffing box when the shaft turns. There should be no drip when at rest. If you do repack, you may want to consider some new materials like the teflon packing. There are many discussion in the archives regarding this process. Basically you just need remove the nut, pull out the washer and pick out the old packing (usually need a pick). Then you cut the pieces to fit around the shaft with the ends cut at an angle 30-45 deg. You will need probably 3 pieces of packing. When you place each layer into the stuffing box you want to be sure that the cuts are staggered. (One cut at 12o'clock, then 4 o'clock and the last one at 8o'clock). I assume that the boat is out of the water. This is probably not something you want to do in the water unless you are experienced. So the answer to your question is NO, you do not need to pull the shaft!
Zen: Have you tried adjusting the stuffing box yet? You are suppose to jet 3-5 drips/minute from a traditional stuffing box when the shaft turns. There should be no drip when at rest. If you do repack, you may want to consider some new materials like the teflon packing. There are many discussion in the archives regarding this process. Basically you just need remove the nut, pull out the washer and pick out the old packing (usually need a pick). Then you cut the pieces to fit around the shaft with the ends cut at an angle 30-45 deg. You will need probably 3 pieces of packing. When you place each layer into the stuffing box you want to be sure that the cuts are staggered. (One cut at 12o'clock, then 4 o'clock and the last one at 8o'clock). I assume that the boat is out of the water. This is probably not something you want to do in the water unless you are experienced. So the answer to your question is NO, you do not need to pull the shaft!
Z
Zen
No I have not adjusted it.
But it appears that the adjustment is maxed out. Looks to me it would be difficult to get the old stuff out since access is difficult. Also the cutlass bearing has about 1/2 inch play so I was considering tackling that at the same time. Is it difficult to remove the prop shaft? Is this something I should have the yard do? Thanks for you respose Steve. Do you own a 28.5? The boat is out of the water.
But it appears that the adjustment is maxed out. Looks to me it would be difficult to get the old stuff out since access is difficult. Also the cutlass bearing has about 1/2 inch play so I was considering tackling that at the same time. Is it difficult to remove the prop shaft? Is this something I should have the yard do? Thanks for you respose Steve. Do you own a 28.5? The boat is out of the water.
A
Alan
I did it on my 89 H28
Zen, I replaced the packing on my Hunter 28 2 years ago. It was alot easier than I imagined. I used a corkscrew-like pick I got at West Marine; however, when I unscrewed the packing nut, I found there was none of the old packing left, so didn't need the corkscrew after all. I made sure my bilge pump was working, and after unscrewing the nut I just allowed the trickle of water coming in to go into the bilge while I put in the new packing. I cut the packing pieces before I got started and angled the cuts as Steve mentioned. The flow of water entering around the shaft was pretty small, much less than I envisioned. The job was definitely doable while the boat was in the water. Good luck.
Zen, I replaced the packing on my Hunter 28 2 years ago. It was alot easier than I imagined. I used a corkscrew-like pick I got at West Marine; however, when I unscrewed the packing nut, I found there was none of the old packing left, so didn't need the corkscrew after all. I made sure my bilge pump was working, and after unscrewing the nut I just allowed the trickle of water coming in to go into the bilge while I put in the new packing. I cut the packing pieces before I got started and angled the cuts as Steve mentioned. The flow of water entering around the shaft was pretty small, much less than I envisioned. The job was definitely doable while the boat was in the water. Good luck.
J
Jeff D
Washer
If you have the nylon stuffing box, which was standard, you will need to remove a large nylon washer before you can get to the packing material. This is an uncommon installation so you won't see mention of this in most instructions. This may take a little banging with a thin bladed screwdriver to get cockeyed so you can pull it back. Pretty much a pain to get out. It will slide out over the shaft. Mine kept getting in the way so I I cut it on the diagonal to remove it from the shaft. Repacked and replaced the washer.
If you have the nylon stuffing box, which was standard, you will need to remove a large nylon washer before you can get to the packing material. This is an uncommon installation so you won't see mention of this in most instructions. This may take a little banging with a thin bladed screwdriver to get cockeyed so you can pull it back. Pretty much a pain to get out. It will slide out over the shaft. Mine kept getting in the way so I I cut it on the diagonal to remove it from the shaft. Repacked and replaced the washer.
Mine is a H'31.
Zen: Since you out of the water, you can do the stuffing box. I would suggest that you have the yard do the cutlass. You need a tool to press the bearing out of the strut. They usually get you for about 1-1.5 hrs for the job. I suggest that you get some of the telfon packing or some of the other new packing materials. Some of new materials can allow you to not have any water flowing even when the shaft is turning. We have had our H'31 since it was new. It has been an excellent and trouble free vessel.
Zen: Since you out of the water, you can do the stuffing box. I would suggest that you have the yard do the cutlass. You need a tool to press the bearing out of the strut. They usually get you for about 1-1.5 hrs for the job. I suggest that you get some of the telfon packing or some of the other new packing materials. Some of new materials can allow you to not have any water flowing even when the shaft is turning. We have had our H'31 since it was new. It has been an excellent and trouble free vessel.
Z
Zen
Thanks guys !!
I will look into getting the teflon packing material and will get a job quote from the yard to repalce the cutlass bearing. This site is great because of you folks who take the time to respond sharing your knowledge.
I will look into getting the teflon packing material and will get a job quote from the yard to repalce the cutlass bearing. This site is great because of you folks who take the time to respond sharing your knowledge.
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