How to remove stanchion plate on 1984 ODay 23?

[Ken Giles]

How do I get the stanchion plate off my 1984 ODay 23? The washers and nuts and backing plate are not visible or accessable from inside the cabin.)I am replacing a bent stanchion and a damaged stanchion plate, parts are being shipped by Rudy from O'Day Parts & Accessories. According to Rudy, the stanchions are installed before the headliner is installed so the headliner has to be cut one way or the other to get at the nuts and washers. Here's Rudy's comments regarding two repair options. Anyone who has rebedded the stanchion plates must have already solved this problem...if so, which is the best solution, or is there an easier method?(A) Below decks repair: Cut the headliner to reach the nuts on the bottom of the stanchion plate and then piece the headliner back in after removing the old, and installing the new stanchion plate. Disadvantage is this will leave large ugly hole or scar in headliner.(B) Above deck repair: Grind off the bolt tops and let the screws fall through into the hull. Carefully drill down through the hull holes into the headliner, creating four pilot holes. Then drill back up through the headliner with a 7/8-inch drill to create an access path for a socket wrench to reattach the new plate.

 

[Sean Fleming]

O'Day 23 Stanchions

I recently rebed all of my 1982 O'Day 23 stanchions (as well as the bow and stern pulpit) and found that I was accurately able to approximate where to drill 7/8" access holes through the headliner. This was possible due to the fact that the headliner did not "meet" the hull and I was able to view the location of the thru bolts by peering into the gap with a good work light. The 7/8" hole size was suitable for using a socket with an extension to remove the lock nut. I covered the holes with plastic caps/plugs similar to the ones already used on the boat. This method did not result in any unsightly damage to the headliner, so it proved well worth the effort. Good luck.-Sean Fleming