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Absolutely is a tedious job. But entirely doable with shims and several attempts.Be careful…re-aligning a strut is reportedly a tough job ( I haven’t done it).
Will look into this idea. Might be that the drill can't align straight on the heads. We'll see.Possibility - drill the heads out from the outside and remove the strut, then punch the remaining bolts up inside or with an extension, turn them until free and removed.
Nut splitter? (ouch)
If I can remove the nut and/or cut off the bolt inside Working the strut down and off the boat should pull the remaining bolt length through the holes. At least that's what I think should happen.My first try would be to remove the nuts and grab the bolts from the inside with a vice grip and try working them out of the holes down through the strut.
I believe they are hex bolts sunk into the strut. But I don't follow.. Why would I have to kiss the strut goodbye if they're flat head?If they're bolts with protruding hex heads, you may be able to worry them to death with a Dremel grinder (they're small but low powered). If they're flat head machine screws (like mine) time to kiss the strut goodbye.
I'm thinking that the removal job will be a cake walk if either the nut is removed, bolt & nut is cut off inside, or if the bolt head is drilled out or removed.Looking further into this, is there really any advantage at all in removing the bolt heads ? If you can't force them downwards it's doubtful you'll get them going upwards either. Mind you, desperate times call for desperate measures.
Lots of thought and planning ahead. Best of luck and let us know how it goes.
If they are flathead machine screws, I can see the grinding doing damage within the countersink.. I can just see part of the strut base going with it unless you're super careful, and very religious.I believe they are hex bolts sunk into the strut. But I don't follow.. Why would I have to kiss the strut goodbye if they're flat head?
I suspect there's sealant under the base which will not be pleasant. That'll require a whole new vocabulary to remove the strut, unless the sealant is deteriorated to the point where it'll let go easily.If I can remove the nut and/or cut off the bolt inside Working the strut down and off the boat should pull the remaining bolt length through the holes. At least that's what I think should happen.
You seem pretty comfortable with this type of work so I would not approach the yard until absolutely everything else has failed. I have seen too many of these guys bulldozing through a job in an honest and sincere attempt to avoid spending endless hours ($ $ $ $) doing what should have been a simple job. You may be looking at some really time consuming crap with this but in the end, it'll give you the results you want.Having the yard do all this is on the table as well.
Am I sure I need to remove the rusty bolts - absolutely. Unless this shouldn't be a concern???The two nuts should be accessible inside. If you completely remove the strut you may have considerable difficulty realigning and sealing underneath it. If you go that route (and I do not advise that) you must keep the prop shaft centered in the stern tube and turning freely in the cutlas bearing. Leave the trans in neutral and you can tell if the shaft is binding in the bearing by turning the shaft by hand while observing the shaft alignment (centered) in the stern tube. Are you sure you need to do this? New flathead screws can be found at McMaster Carr.
Not a problem ........................... until they start to fail and all hell breaks loose in the most inconvenient location imaginable ! ! ! !Am I sure I need to remove the rusty bolts - absolutely. Unless this shouldn't be a concern???
Then tackle your alignment problem by adjusting your motor mounts as needed. Long winter no matter how you look at it.