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How to re-install center board?

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ebsail

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Nov 28, 2010
241
O day 25 Nyack. New York
OK -I'm repairing the centerboard for my Oday 25. Is there a simple way to re-install this thing. I'm sure some one has done this before. My guess is the swivel pin (plastic) goes into the board and the board goes up the slot. Then the wedges and then the plates to hold the wedges up. How do the wedges stay in place while the little plates go on? Won't the wedges move? Anyway, if anyone knows a simple step by step, I would be grateful to only have to do this once. This is the first center board vessel out of my last 8 boats. Thanks Ernie
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
OK -I'm repairing the centerboard for my Oday 25. Is there a simple way to re-install this thing. I'm sure some one has done this before. My guess is the swivel pin (plastic) goes into the board and the board goes up the slot. Then the wedges and then the plates to hold the wedges up. How do the wedges stay in place while the little plates go on? Won't the wedges move? Anyway, if anyone knows a simple step by step, I would be grateful to only have to do this once. This is the first center board vessel out of my last 8 boats. Thanks Ernie
Ernie,
I went through that same operation several years ago and I just came up with a plan to get the board back in that worked for me.
I had my boat raised up so that the keel was about 18" off the ground and I had plenty of room to get under it with my mechanic's creeper or a polytarp to lay on. I cut a piece of strapping just long enough to wedge under the centerboard from the ground. I even cut a small notch on one end so it wouldn't slip off the centerboard.
I used two long 1/2'' lines to hold the centerboard up while I was removing the wedges when I was removing the board. I didn't want the board to come down and conk me on the head. All I did was run the lines in between the hand rails on top of the cabin in such a way that they could be tied off to support the centerboard evenly. I was able to control these lines while laying under the boat's keel. I tied a bowline to one end of each line and ran each of the other ends through the bowlines with a round turn and two half hitches after I pulled the slack out of each line and got it tight around the bottom of the keel. It's just a matter of improvisation. I was by myself doing this job--as usual, and I came up with that idea.
I also wedged the strapping against the middle of the centerboard as an extra precaution.
I had cleaned the keel slot and bottom painted it along with the centerboard when I had the centerboard out. I didn't apply bottom paint to the wedge grooves though. This is where the caulking is applied and it needs to be left bare for good adherence of the caulking.

Actually I believe that the caulking under the wedges is what really holds that whole shebang in there. You probably found this out when you removed the plates. I'm not implying that the plates aren't needed, but when the whole thing is all back together again with the proper adhesive caulking, it shouldn't ever fall out.
Rudy had told me years ago that a regular adhesive caulking was used. I'm not sure whether I used 3-M 4000 fast cure Adhesive Caulking or 3-M 4200 back then. I don't think I used 3-M 5200. It's too strong for this application. Don't use silicone. Use a good adhesive sealant.

After I got the board up into the slot with the strapping wedged from the ground to hold it in place. I applied the caulking to the wedges or the wedge slots I don't remember, --and I pressed each wedge into the slot so they were even with the inside surface. I think that I wedged a couple of pieces of sticks between the centerboard on each side, and each of the wedges. Improvisation is key here. I just do what I have to do as the job requires.

I lined up the plates to make sure that the wood screw holes were going to line up in the center of the bottom of each of the wedges. If the holes didn't line up, I'd move the wedge.

(Note) I had to reconstruct these wedges with fiberglass resin and filler. Consequently, I had to drill new holes in the bottom of the wedges for the wood screws after the wedges and plates were in place.
If the holes in your wedges are still OK and you want to use them, now is the time to line up the holes while the caulking is still soft.

After I got the plates bolted on and the wood screws in place, I tested the board and she worked like a champ.
The final job required a little bottom paint over the two wedges by reaching in with a small brush.

It's an easy job Ernie that requires a little thought, and some improvised techniques that only you can come up with.
The ropes and the stick worked for me but maybe you'll come up with something else that will work for you. All I can tell you is think it out and take your time and you'll get it done. ;)
Good luck!
Joe
 
May 31, 2004
857
Catalina 28 Branford
Here is a print out of a thread from this website from a few years ago, describing the job you want to do. The last time I checked, you can find the thread on the server, but the photos appear to be missing. I printed out the pictures too, but I didn't have a color printer, and the quality of the print and scan I did is not so great.

As usual, Joe's advice is more detailed anyway. Good luck.
 

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Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Just being able to get at the under side of the keel to work on it is probably the hardest task that any DIYer will encounter depending on the equipment that one has available. Good luck with that Ernie.
 
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