I'm about to install a tank level meter above my battery selector switch. I assume any terminal on back of switch is adequate for power, and then I need to find a ground somewhere? One of the batteries is only about 3-4 feet away. Is that my best bet for a ground or negative terminal? Thanks
How to power 12v device from battery selector switch
- Thread starter Ted10028
- Start date
Hi Ted,
Not sure I know exactly where you intend to hook up the tank wires…to the actual battery selector switch?
I am not sure I would suggest that, instead putting the tank on a switch (or breaker).
Do you have a distribution panel for the 12-volt Dc system? Any open breakers you could use for the tank monitor?
if not, you COULD put the tank monitor on a breaker that is shared with other equipment. This assumes that the breaker is sized adequately a for both things connected. for example, I have my VHF radio AND the charging cradle for the handheld mic on the same breaker…so when the VHF is on, the charging cradle in the cockpit is also on, since that is when / where I use the remote mic.
Are you trying to keep the tank monitor on all the time? Not sure I recommend that either as it could draw down the batteries over time.
Finally, if you insist on wiring it to the 1-2-B-Off switch, the “C” post is hot whenever either battery is selected…so,that is where I would put it,…but don’t forget proper fusing.
Greg
Not sure I know exactly where you intend to hook up the tank wires…to the actual battery selector switch?
I am not sure I would suggest that, instead putting the tank on a switch (or breaker).
Do you have a distribution panel for the 12-volt Dc system? Any open breakers you could use for the tank monitor?
if not, you COULD put the tank monitor on a breaker that is shared with other equipment. This assumes that the breaker is sized adequately a for both things connected. for example, I have my VHF radio AND the charging cradle for the handheld mic on the same breaker…so when the VHF is on, the charging cradle in the cockpit is also on, since that is when / where I use the remote mic.
Are you trying to keep the tank monitor on all the time? Not sure I recommend that either as it could draw down the batteries over time.
Finally, if you insist on wiring it to the 1-2-B-Off switch, the “C” post is hot whenever either battery is selected…so,that is where I would put it,…but don’t forget proper fusing.
Greg
Hi Greg, I am trying to avoid running wire to other side of boat where breakers are. Seems like a lot of snaking. I suppose I could put a fuse and on/off switch next to tank monitor?
I’ve made similar decisions when installing something near the switch and far from the panel. Definitely use a fuse on the wire within a few inches of the switch. Size the fuse based on the wire size going to the monitor. If there are not many wires already stacked on the switch terminal you can go directly to that. That’s what I did for the first item I was adding. When it came time to add a second item I instead ran a new wire from the switch terminal to a fused bus bar, then ran wires from those fuses there to my new loads. Similarly for the ground you could go back to the negative terminal, or you could add a negative bus bar and connect the monitor to that. Having the bus bars adds lots more flexibility in the future. ABYC says not to exceed 4 wires on any one terminal stud, and less is better, so bus bars help distribute those loads easily.
