How to mount a "Tiller Tamer"?

[Steven Gautney]

I need something to hold the tiller in place so that I can go forward to help with control lines. I have read the "tiller jockey" post and see the expensive tiller lock in the HOW store. I now have a "tiller Tamer" from Davis instruments. Question is, how to mount it on the aluminum/stainless steel tiller handle? If mounted on the steel tiller handle . . .does it interfere with the extension handle and do you use self tapping screws, bolt through the pipe, or drill and tapp machine screws into the metal handle? Is there a better solution?

 

[Dale Wile]

Two ways

I have used two different methods of mounting a Tiller Tamer to a round tiller. Since my boat is in winter storage, I'll have to be a little vague in giving dimensions. 1) Buy a piece of aluminum strap, approx. 1/8" thick by 1-1/2" wide by roughly 9" long. Measure from one end and mark a line 1". In a heavy vice, bend the 1" segment slightly upwards (the amount of angle of the upward slope of the tiller compared to the horizontal). From the first bend, make the next mark at a distance equal to the length of the Tiller Tamer, or a bit more. Make a right angle bend downward. Using a scrap of wood the length of the above distance, place one end of the wood piece against the tiller and holding the block approximately level, measure the distance from the bottom of the wood scrap to the tiller. Using that distance, make a final mark on the metal strap and make a final bend of the same angle as the first bend. Cut the remaining metal an inch beyond the final bend. Drill holes 1/2" from each end to accomodate #10 or #12 stainless steel sheet metal screws. Also, drill holes in the flat section to align with the holes in the Tiller Tamer, for stainless steel bolts, washers and nuts.If you want to make it appear a little more professional looking, clamp the ends of the bracket to a 1-1/2" steel water pipe and, using a wooden mallet, pound the inch long ends into a curved shape to better fit the curvature of the tiller. 2) I used a block of maghogany, approx. 1-1/2" thick, about 4" wide and about 5" long. Using an expansion bit, I drilled a hole (the same diameter as the tiller) through the five inch length, about an inch from one edge. Then, I split the block through the center of the hole, side to side. This gave me a block with a concave edge that fit over the tiller. I cut the block again, using that same angle described in the first example (the angle between the upward slope of the tiller and the horizontal). I drilled holes through the block and into the tiller, aligned with the holes in the Tiller Tamer, and used self-tapping stainless steel screws. In both examples, you are simply raising the aft end of the Tiller Tamer to give it a level position. I have used cleats, or rings to attach the ends of the rope that come from the Tiller Tamer. Hope this helps.Dale

 

[Ray Bowles]

Steve, I have never mounted a "store" bought

tamer before. The only concern I had when building and mounting the unit I use is that there was nothing mounted on the tiller handle that could injure or cut someone. When removed mine leaves the handle in original condition. When mounted this is also the case even with the round post that goes to the cockpit deck square hole.You will enjoy your tamer. Sorry I couldn't be of any more help.RayS/V Speedy