- Sep 30, 2008
I try to explain to our guests here on Maui that you have to watch the waves for a while during a shorebreak before they go in the water.I have heard sailors debate the proper way to measure wave height. I copied the following from the PredictWind "help" guide. It will clarify the significance of professional readings reported by that app and other weather sources:
"The wave height is the mean wave height from trough to crest of the highest third of the waves, which is known as the 'significant wave height'.
The significant wave height is generated from the primary swell and also the local wind wave.
The wave model also takes into account the effect of ocean currents.
As the significant wave height is an average, it is possible you may encounter a wave that is roughly double the significant wave height depending on the conditions."
This picture is of a wave at Jaws, a surf site near our house on the North Shore of Maui. It is about 30' high I think. At the hight of the season, the waves can reach 100' here.