How to free unstuck wheel break on Edson Pedestal?

[patrickkidd]

Does anyone have experience with a wheel break knob becoming so hard to turn that it can't be engaged? I am trying to figure out if I need to take the binnacle apart.

I also can't find the bottom end of the rotation for it, partially since it's so hard to turn. It came this way from the previous owner.

Thanks!

 

[dlochner]

The wheel brake is a clamp with brake lining (like the stuff on your car's drum brakes). Tightening the knob, causes the clamp to close on the axle, there is a limited range of clamping pressure on the brake. Once the break lining wears or gets greasy, it is impossible to develop enough clamping pressure to engage the brake.

Grease or oil gets on the brake lining from the chain. Over time, some sprays or drips off the chain and eventually lands on the pads.

There are 3 solutions, live without the brake, spend a small fortune on replacement parts from Edson, or buy some brake lining and replace the lining for very little money plus some effort.

The photos show the brake in the pedestal, it is at the bottom of the photo and new brake lining being glued to the brakes.

 

[Calif. Ted]

I seem to recall the lining material as being leather or leather like, and not long lasting. You are a brave yet cautious man Dave. I'd like to point out that he has taken the trouble to safety wire/leash all the parts. There is nothing more disheartening then the sound of parts falling to the bottom of your pedestal.
I've been a member of the "no brake" group for about 5 years.

 

[Roland5048]

Brakes?...We don't need no stinkin' brakes! Fraulein II came without one. Have had her for over twenty years and never missed it. A simple bungee cord will hold the wheel for awhile if you need to steady it.

 

[dlochner]

I seem to recall the lining material as being leather or leather like, and not long lasting. You are a brave yet cautious man Dave. I'd like to point out that he has taken the trouble to safety wire/leash all the parts. There is nothing more disheartening then the sound of parts falling to the bottom of your pedestal.
I've been a member of the "no brake" group for about 5 years.

The brake material looks like leather when it is well oiled, but it is a brake lining. If you spend your child's inheritance you buy the Edson brake repair kit or go to McMaster-Carr and pay more for shipping than the lining and spend less than a 12 pack. The first time I replaced them, I went the expensive route, then I got smart with the second boat.

I seldom use the brake while sailing, either the sails are trimmed well and the boat tracks nicely or more likely I just turn on the autopilot. I do use it at the dock. My marina can get bouncy, if the brake isn't set the rudder can slam around. Bad for the rudder and steering assembly.

To retrieve parts that have dropped down the pedestal, get a long thin stick, a flashlight and some 5 minute epoxy. Gob up a bunch of epoxy at the end of the stick, glue the stick to the errant part, have a beer and then carefully extract the part.

 

[Kermit]

If at first you don’t succeed use a bigger hammer.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Is this a trick question?

"How to free an unstuck..."

 

[victorhoisington]

So rebuilding the brake and checking the gears/cables in the binnacle is actually a pretty simple job. I did a complete rebuild/repair in about 2 hours on a Sat. morning (had to redo the brake, and replace the engine cables). The instructions are on the Edson site.

I like to do my own work and this was actually one of those tasks that I thought was harder than it really was. Just take your time .

Good luck,

 

[JimInPB]

If oil/grease on the brake lining is the problem, would the solution not be to simply make use of a can of brake cleaner?

 

[dlochner]

If oil/grease on the brake lining is the problem, would the solution not be to simply make use of a can of brake cleaner?

The problem is access. To clean the brake pads, it is necessary to remove them. Once they are removed, it is easier and not any more expensive to replace them than clean them. When your done, the pads are new. The other issue with cleaning is the pads become saturated, it is not surface oil and dirt.

So rebuilding the brake and checking the gears/cables in the binnacle is actually a pretty simple job. I did a complete rebuild/repair in about 2 hours on a Sat. morning (had to redo the brake, and replace the engine cables). The instructions are on the Edson site.

I like to do my own work and this was actually one of those tasks that I thought was harder than it really was. Just take your time .

Rebuilding the steering gear is pretty simple and straightforward. I've rebuilt 2 of them. The only issues I've had are nuts and bolts that have seized and clumsy fingers dropping things. Edson has instructions on their site and they sell service kits.

While you're messing with the steering, check the idler wheels for the cable. The axle needs lubrication and it is prone to wear. The axles sometimes develop a flat spot and can fail. Assuming decent access, this is easy when the cables are slack.

Speaking of cables, check the cables for wear and fish hooks. Edson recommends lightly oiling the cable with 30 wt motor oil. If the cables need replacing, you have a choice of buying new cables from Edson for about $70 each or buying more cable than you need, a swaging tool, and the sleeves for about $70.

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

Is this a trick question?
"How to free an unstuck..."

I was pondering this also ???

 

[gettinthere]

I replaced the chain and cable in my edson steering pedestal. The cotter pin that edson used to attach chain to cable wasnt bent over well. I ignored that and over time it nicked a wire that runs down the inside of the pedestal. Make sure the cotter pins are not protruding!

The brake is essential when at anchor or on a mooring to keep the rudder from slamming back and forth.

As for picking up stuff...rather than epoxy, try some Compass Marine butyl on the end of your pick up stick! Works great!!

 

[NYSail]

Pull it apart and fix. Quite easy and Edson has all the parts. My break was metal... no leather. Easy job. I stuffed a rag into binical below to catch anything that fell.
Good luck

 

[Skipper]

Great info here.
But he's asking why the knob is hard to turn.

You have to lubricate the worm gear, which is merely the other end of the knob shaft.
It's not easy to access without removing stuff, but if you take off the hood and maybe the compass (easy), you can use a long flathead screwdriver to wipe grease on the gear, then turn it in and out to work in the grease.
Do that now. Don't wait for it to seize.

 

[Harlan]

There is a plastic sleeve over the shaft where the shaft passes thru the aluminum housing. It may have deteriorated from sun so you can't see from the outside. Probably still can on the inside. I would guess that this plastic sleeve is where the "hard to turn the knob" issue is coming from - not from the SS shaft against the bronze brake shoe parts. Spray the inside and out of the sleeve with PB Blaster or the like and slowly turn the shaft back and forth to work it free. Edson sells replacement plastic bushings or it may be a size available at a home center or McMaster.

 

[Skipper]

There is a plastic sleeve over the shaft where the shaft passes thru the aluminum housing. It may have deteriorated from sun so you can't see from the outside. Probably still can on the inside. I would guess that this plastic sleeve is where the "hard to turn the knob" issue is coming from - not from the SS shaft against the bronze brake shoe parts. Spray the inside and out of the sleeve with PB Blaster or the like and slowly turn the shaft back and forth to work it free. Edson sells replacement plastic bushings or it may be a size available at a home center or McMaster.

I had precisely the same issue as the poster, and it was the gear being dry that caused it. A plastic bushing is not going to prevent turning a knob of that size.