is this a major job or is it minor? it came to me this way. and i just noticed it today as i was looking at the top of my mast. how would you fix this? fiberglass right to the hull? and how to fix the ding and slice ?
It looks like the “slice” was caulked previously, and some popped off.
If it were me, I would recaulk the slice to fill the hole and hopefully keep water out.
If the rough spot in the orange hull bothers you, you could sand it smooth but not sure if the color is painted or gel-cost. Might be hard to get it blended in. Or you could fair it with fairing compound, and paint or gel-cost it.
If it were me, I wouldn’t bother.
Greg
If it were me, I would recaulk the slice to fill the hole and hopefully keep water out.
If the rough spot in the orange hull bothers you, you could sand it smooth but not sure if the color is painted or gel-cost. Might be hard to get it blended in. Or you could fair it with fairing compound, and paint or gel-cost it.
If it were me, I wouldn’t bother.
Greg
The red gel coat can be easily fixed, but color matching will be next to impossible for an old boat with oxidized gelcoat.
The rub rail and the vinyl (or other plastic) around the nose could possibly be fixed, however, it would likely require removing all or most of the existing rubrail and installing new. This can be a beast of a job as the rail often needs to be stretched to fit.
You might try cleaning the white vinyl and use some 3m 4000uv to build up and shape the caulk to match. Use lots of masking tape to head off the inevitable drips.
The rub rail and the vinyl (or other plastic) around the nose could possibly be fixed, however, it would likely require removing all or most of the existing rubrail and installing new. This can be a beast of a job as the rail often needs to be stretched to fit.
You might try cleaning the white vinyl and use some 3m 4000uv to build up and shape the caulk to match. Use lots of masking tape to head off the inevitable drips.
As above, the aesthetics can be handled in several ways, but my first thought was structure. If it was my boat, I'd have an upper and lower stainless plate as rigid backing plates for that section of the hull to deck joint. Then run a few appropriate size bolts and nylock nuts through the plates, fiberglass and caulking. Then it will be stronger than new. I don't know anything about the black rubber band, err rubrail.
ok for one thing this hull is not plastic .or vinyl , its fibreglass. and the nose piece im talking about before the rubrail is fibreglass i think what i am going to do is just buy a marine fibreglass kit from canadian tire and scuff the existing up and do a couple layups of fibreglass then paint. as for the rub rail i will try to figure something out. im more worried about the slash.....
1974,
The black rub rail is flexible PVC. I'd just fill the slash with black silicone and call it a day.
The black rub rail holder sits in the white "rigid PVC rub rail holder". This is the piece that is broken up. You could try rebuilding it with something. I think I would try G-Flex epoxy with a thickening agent used to get it stiff as peanut butter. G-Flex will stick to plastic/PVC.
If you want to replace it go to D&R Marine has it. That link should take you to their page where they list it for the O'day 22.
FYI, that white rub rail holder is screwed over the hull to deck joint. It covers the screws that hold the joint together. Here's a pic of it on my 1980 O'day 25 where a piece was missing.
I purchased a few feet from D&R and replaced the damaged section. I also found several of the screws in that area were loose and allowed rain to run into the holes and into the boat. I took at the loose screws, filled the holes with thickened epoxy and put the screws back in.
You might have the same thing until you fix it.
And yes, your hull is fiberglass. Previous comments were talking about the plastic rub rail holder.
The damage to the red area is dock rash. (IMHO) Unless you want to fix it for cosmetic reasons I wouldn't bother. If you do you could get some epoxy fairing compound to fill and smooth the area. You won't match that color but maybe a contrast colored stripe down the bow would look better than a patch.
Regards,
Ward
The black rub rail is flexible PVC. I'd just fill the slash with black silicone and call it a day.
The black rub rail holder sits in the white "rigid PVC rub rail holder". This is the piece that is broken up. You could try rebuilding it with something. I think I would try G-Flex epoxy with a thickening agent used to get it stiff as peanut butter. G-Flex will stick to plastic/PVC.
If you want to replace it go to D&R Marine has it. That link should take you to their page where they list it for the O'day 22.
FYI, that white rub rail holder is screwed over the hull to deck joint. It covers the screws that hold the joint together. Here's a pic of it on my 1980 O'day 25 where a piece was missing.
I purchased a few feet from D&R and replaced the damaged section. I also found several of the screws in that area were loose and allowed rain to run into the holes and into the boat. I took at the loose screws, filled the holes with thickened epoxy and put the screws back in.
You might have the same thing until you fix it.
And yes, your hull is fiberglass. Previous comments were talking about the plastic rub rail holder.
The damage to the red area is dock rash. (IMHO) Unless you want to fix it for cosmetic reasons I wouldn't bother. If you do you could get some epoxy fairing compound to fill and smooth the area. You won't match that color but maybe a contrast colored stripe down the bow would look better than a patch.
Then just fill with some silicone or rubber sealant.
Regards,
Ward
am i able to use fibreglass instead of filling it with epoxy? id actually be roughing the area up then using fibreglass to fix the white rubrail right to the hull and where the lip is on the black rubrail. the slash i will fill with epoxy then paint it black if thats a better idea?
You have damage in 4 different areas on the bow: the hull, the rub rail retainer, the vinyl or rubber rub rail, and the deck. The deck and hull are fibglass covered in gelcoat. The rub rail retainer is some kind of plastic, not fiberglass, and the rub rail is some kind of flexible plastic.
Epoxy will likely flex off of the rub rail as the adhesion will be poor. @Ward H's suggestion of injecting some black caulk in behind the rub rail is an interesting idea and would probably work. Won't be perfect, but you might be able to inflate the rail and get the contour to be a closer match to the rest.
The plastic retainer is going to be more of a challenge. G-Flex may adhere to it, thickened with colloidal silica may allow you to shape the repair to match, however, epoxy is UV sensitive and will deteriorate with UV exposure, you will have to paint the epoxy. Regular epoxy will probably not stick well enough to the plastic to work for any length of time.
The gelcoat areas can be filled and faired and then re gelcoated. Color matching will be nigh unto impossible.
If you can find someone create an accurate CAD drawing of the damaged retainer, it may be possible to print on in a UV stable plastic. Then take out the damaged section and glue in the new section.
what damage are you referring to on deck. my deck is solid . no soft spots anywhere... unless your talking the nose with the cracks that are highly visible ... i will try the black caulk and see if that pushes the rubber out . and see if i can hide that slash as well. as for the plastic. i think i will go buy a pvc pipe thats uv resist and cut to form . then glue in place over existing damage.
that i will have to inspect further to see what will be needed .... pretty sure you or ward suggested gelcoat for that with epoxy ?
Clean it up, sand and remove loose chips, then gelcote.
When posting photos annotating them is really helpful, especially if there are several areas of concern in one photo.
After you address your damage on the nose, thoroughly inspect your mast, standing rigging, chain plates, anything that may be affected by a hard collision with a dock. The sudden stop at speed would put considerable stress on the tall aluminized pole standing 30' in the air. A lot of strain was taken by everthing aboard when that boat collided with whatever caused that damage. Keep in mind that masts flex in both direction, do there was strain on the forestay, as well as the backstays, when the masthead, sprung back against the stretch it put on the backstays.
-Will
-Will
My sugestion would be as follows . Remove the rubrail holder about a foot from the bow on both sides . Fiberglass the seam between the topsides and the hull .Install a new 2' section of rubrail . Heck ,I have 3' of new stuff you can have . Just pay for shipping . Water will find a way in !
Installing the rubrail can certainly be very frustrating . I used a heat gun to soften it up just before I installed it . Lot's of ratchet straps and gorilla tape until it cooled and held it's shape .
Installing the rubrail can certainly be very frustrating . I used a heat gun to soften it up just before I installed it . Lot's of ratchet straps and gorilla tape until it cooled and held it's shape .
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