I have just purchased an 1984 oday 22 and can't work out how to drop the mast. Can anyone help? Thanks brian
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Mary
Might check the archives; this is how we step ours
On the trailer: (2 people) Just my husband and myself can do this with minimal hassle. You don't need to be a thick necked gorilla to do it this way... 1)Preparation: Park on a fairly level surface...Hang a homemade guide suspended in the tip of the bow pulpit. ( a piece of romax with a rubber spool threaded onto it; just wrap the ends of the romax around the pulpit rail and back onto itself...ugly but quite useful)....You'll also need a type of padded "Y" type of brace to put into the rudder brackets on the back of the boat. It should look like a "U" sitting on a stick. Ours is made of metal, and the "u" is padded with foam pipe insulation. The "U" should be about as high as your bow pulpit, or at least high enough to clear the top of your cabin.... You'll also need a foam boat cushion or something similar to place on the bow pulpit for the unstepped mast butt to rest on. 2)Unhook the trailer winch strap from the nose of the boat and pull the strap over the romax guide up to the base of the mast, and hook the jib halyard into it. (the other end of the jib halyard is securely cleated to the mast) 3)Using your trailer winch, tighten the trailer winch strap enough that you can get the headstay unfastened. 4)Unpin the front pin in the mast tabernacle on the deck of the boat. Unhook your mast's electrical wires. 5)Now for the tricky part:One person runs the trailer winch, and another guides and supports the mast as it comes down. Slower isn't necessarily better, but keep the descent well controlled. Let out the trailer winch strap steadily and smoothly. The mast will drop towards the stern of the boat. The person in the boat doesn't need to lift the mast, just guide it into the "U". 6)Now unpin the rear pin from the mast tabernackle. With a person on each end of the mast (one in cockpit, one on deck), lift the mast and walk it forward the short distance necessary to place the butt on the cushion on the bow pulpit. Secure your rigging and mast,take off your wind vane, and you're ready to roll. If you leave your backstay and shrouds attached, they'll be ready to go the next time you step the mast, using this same procedure in reverse. I'm sorry but I can't help with stepping/unstepping on the water. Probably there is someone who has a slick trick to doing this one. Good Luck! Mary
On the trailer: (2 people) Just my husband and myself can do this with minimal hassle. You don't need to be a thick necked gorilla to do it this way... 1)Preparation: Park on a fairly level surface...Hang a homemade guide suspended in the tip of the bow pulpit. ( a piece of romax with a rubber spool threaded onto it; just wrap the ends of the romax around the pulpit rail and back onto itself...ugly but quite useful)....You'll also need a type of padded "Y" type of brace to put into the rudder brackets on the back of the boat. It should look like a "U" sitting on a stick. Ours is made of metal, and the "u" is padded with foam pipe insulation. The "U" should be about as high as your bow pulpit, or at least high enough to clear the top of your cabin.... You'll also need a foam boat cushion or something similar to place on the bow pulpit for the unstepped mast butt to rest on. 2)Unhook the trailer winch strap from the nose of the boat and pull the strap over the romax guide up to the base of the mast, and hook the jib halyard into it. (the other end of the jib halyard is securely cleated to the mast) 3)Using your trailer winch, tighten the trailer winch strap enough that you can get the headstay unfastened. 4)Unpin the front pin in the mast tabernacle on the deck of the boat. Unhook your mast's electrical wires. 5)Now for the tricky part:One person runs the trailer winch, and another guides and supports the mast as it comes down. Slower isn't necessarily better, but keep the descent well controlled. Let out the trailer winch strap steadily and smoothly. The mast will drop towards the stern of the boat. The person in the boat doesn't need to lift the mast, just guide it into the "U". 6)Now unpin the rear pin from the mast tabernackle. With a person on each end of the mast (one in cockpit, one on deck), lift the mast and walk it forward the short distance necessary to place the butt on the cushion on the bow pulpit. Secure your rigging and mast,take off your wind vane, and you're ready to roll. If you leave your backstay and shrouds attached, they'll be ready to go the next time you step the mast, using this same procedure in reverse. I'm sorry but I can't help with stepping/unstepping on the water. Probably there is someone who has a slick trick to doing this one. Good Luck! Mary
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Jim
Bow Pulpit
This sounds great - I always have angts when raisting and lowering the mast of my 222 - the mast foot is different than the 22, and more flimsy - allowing more twist to the mast and the possibility to snap the small aluminum ring on the mast foot. I didn't quite understand the guide that you describe on the bow pulpit - this sounds really critical for the 222 to keep the lines straight - can you post of photo or describe in a bit mor detail (I have to admit I don't know what romax is...
This sounds great - I always have angts when raisting and lowering the mast of my 222 - the mast foot is different than the 22, and more flimsy - allowing more twist to the mast and the possibility to snap the small aluminum ring on the mast foot. I didn't quite understand the guide that you describe on the bow pulpit - this sounds really critical for the 222 to keep the lines straight - can you post of photo or describe in a bit mor detail (I have to admit I don't know what romax is...
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Rich SantaColoma
A very easy one person job:
Here is my procedure: 1) Tie off the jib halyard to the bow pulpit, and make sure it is securely cleated to the mast at the other end. This will assure that when you release the fore-stay, the mast will stay upright. 2) I run a line from the cockpit (where it is securely cleated to one of the cockpit cleats), forward to a block at the bow. The line runs through the block. 3) Detach the forestay, and attach the forestay to this line. Now you can take off the jib halyard, as this new line will support the mast (remember, it runs from the cleat in the cockpit, through the block at the bow, and is attached to the fore-stay). 4) Go back to the cockpit, uncleat the line. While holding this line (which will now support the mast), climb on the cabin roof. You can now hold the line with one hand (easily) and lower the mast toward the back of the boat. 5) When the mast is about 45 degrees, climb down into the cockpit. Of course, you are still holding the line, which still easily supports the mast. From the middle/back of the cockpit, you can now take over the weight of the mast, and let go the line. 6) Once you are holding all the weight of the mast, you can pull it out of the tabernacle, and move it forward to rest on the bow pulpit. When you do remove it from the tabernacle, you need to be standing at the far back of the cockpit, as this is closest to the center of balance of the rig. However, it is not the absolute center, so be ready to move the mast forward as soon as it comes out of the tabernacle. I have a bizillion sail ties and bungies to secure all the stays to mast, and the mast to one of the teak cabin top rails. I do want to make a crutch to fit in the rudder gudgeons, as suggested elsewhere here, which will help... mostly because the hardest part is getting under the rig's center of balance when removing it from the tabernacle. Raising the mast is just as easy: Move the mast back until you can insert the tabernacle pin, push the mast up while pulling on the line (the line used to lower the mast, as described above). Soon the line will easily hold the mast at an angle, and you can climb on the cabin roof. From the roof, you can push the mast up while taking up on the line, until the mast is vertical. Cleat the line, then tie off the jib halyard to the bow pulpit, then detach the line from the fore-stay and attach the fore-stay. I have never needed any help raising the mast or lowering it. It is so easy I will raise the mast when the boat is in the driveway... just to clear the deck for maintenance. By the way, I am 45 years old, and not a weightlifter! Rich.
Here is my procedure: 1) Tie off the jib halyard to the bow pulpit, and make sure it is securely cleated to the mast at the other end. This will assure that when you release the fore-stay, the mast will stay upright. 2) I run a line from the cockpit (where it is securely cleated to one of the cockpit cleats), forward to a block at the bow. The line runs through the block. 3) Detach the forestay, and attach the forestay to this line. Now you can take off the jib halyard, as this new line will support the mast (remember, it runs from the cleat in the cockpit, through the block at the bow, and is attached to the fore-stay). 4) Go back to the cockpit, uncleat the line. While holding this line (which will now support the mast), climb on the cabin roof. You can now hold the line with one hand (easily) and lower the mast toward the back of the boat. 5) When the mast is about 45 degrees, climb down into the cockpit. Of course, you are still holding the line, which still easily supports the mast. From the middle/back of the cockpit, you can now take over the weight of the mast, and let go the line. 6) Once you are holding all the weight of the mast, you can pull it out of the tabernacle, and move it forward to rest on the bow pulpit. When you do remove it from the tabernacle, you need to be standing at the far back of the cockpit, as this is closest to the center of balance of the rig. However, it is not the absolute center, so be ready to move the mast forward as soon as it comes out of the tabernacle. I have a bizillion sail ties and bungies to secure all the stays to mast, and the mast to one of the teak cabin top rails. I do want to make a crutch to fit in the rudder gudgeons, as suggested elsewhere here, which will help... mostly because the hardest part is getting under the rig's center of balance when removing it from the tabernacle. Raising the mast is just as easy: Move the mast back until you can insert the tabernacle pin, push the mast up while pulling on the line (the line used to lower the mast, as described above). Soon the line will easily hold the mast at an angle, and you can climb on the cabin roof. From the roof, you can push the mast up while taking up on the line, until the mast is vertical. Cleat the line, then tie off the jib halyard to the bow pulpit, then detach the line from the fore-stay and attach the fore-stay. I have never needed any help raising the mast or lowering it. It is so easy I will raise the mast when the boat is in the driveway... just to clear the deck for maintenance. By the way, I am 45 years old, and not a weightlifter! Rich.
M
Mary
Jim, I will post some pics later today...
Romax is electric wire like you put in a house. Probably any heavy duty wire would work, but romax is covered with vinyl or something, and won't scratch our bow pulpit. String your wire thru a rubber bumper/roller (that looks like a 3" spool for thread) and suspend it in the center of the bow pulpit. Wrap the ends of your romax around the pulpit rails and back on itself. You will probably need about 3-4 ft. Your trailer's winch strap will slide over this, and the bumps on the spool/roller keep it centered. I will post some pics this evening which may make it easier to see how this is done. Rich has a good method too. Mary
Romax is electric wire like you put in a house. Probably any heavy duty wire would work, but romax is covered with vinyl or something, and won't scratch our bow pulpit. String your wire thru a rubber bumper/roller (that looks like a 3" spool for thread) and suspend it in the center of the bow pulpit. Wrap the ends of your romax around the pulpit rails and back on itself. You will probably need about 3-4 ft. Your trailer's winch strap will slide over this, and the bumps on the spool/roller keep it centered. I will post some pics this evening which may make it easier to see how this is done. Rich has a good method too. Mary
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Mary
J
Jim
Thank You
Mary and all - many thanks - I'll look forward to the pics and tryout some of the techniques soon. Jim
Mary and all - many thanks - I'll look forward to the pics and tryout some of the techniques soon. Jim
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