Recently purchased a 1984 H34 and not sure how to drop down the salon table top to convert starboard seating to a double bed. Any help would be appreciated!
- Status
braces??? well OK, here is what we did.
On our web site are a couple of pictures of the table with an explanation of how we disabled the Perko brackets. We are still looking for a collapsible support leg to replace our newer teak leg.
On our web site are a couple of pictures of the table with an explanation of how we disabled the Perko brackets. We are still looking for a collapsible support leg to replace our newer teak leg.
We do it
We convert the main salon to sleeping quarters sometimes on trips. There are wood screws holding the leg to the bottom of the table, and to the cabin sole. My handy cordless driver removes the screws in a wink. Then grab the table from the now-freed inboard end and lift. The bulkhead end lifts easily out of the brackets. Then the table lies across the space between the two seats, with just enough overlap. Badabim.
We convert the main salon to sleeping quarters sometimes on trips. There are wood screws holding the leg to the bottom of the table, and to the cabin sole. My handy cordless driver removes the screws in a wink. Then grab the table from the now-freed inboard end and lift. The bulkhead end lifts easily out of the brackets. Then the table lies across the space between the two seats, with just enough overlap. Badabim.
The metal post under the table
is supposed to break free from both the floor and the receptical under the table, if it does not, remove the screws from both the sole and the table, free the ends from the stainless pipe, then lube the fittings so they work freely, re-fasten the top and bottom pieces then you can remove the pipe anytime you want. If the parts are corroded together so as they will not come apart, new ones are found at a camper/RV store.
is supposed to break free from both the floor and the receptical under the table, if it does not, remove the screws from both the sole and the table, free the ends from the stainless pipe, then lube the fittings so they work freely, re-fasten the top and bottom pieces then you can remove the pipe anytime you want. If the parts are corroded together so as they will not come apart, new ones are found at a camper/RV store.
First time also
We found that if we removed the table from the wall sockets first the post fitting worked loose. If you get the table loose from the post it puts a bind on the wall receptacles.
We found that if we removed the table from the wall sockets first the post fitting worked loose. If you get the table loose from the post it puts a bind on the wall receptacles.
How it was suppose to work...
Lift the inboard end of the table and remove the metal support leg. Yes, if this is not done regularly, you may have to unscrew the fittings and use a penetrating oil to free the SS leg from the aluminum fitting. Anyway, after the leg is removed, you can lower the inboard end of the table. This lowering of the inboard end enables you to lift the outboard end out of the two fittings on the bulkhead/outboard end of the table. If the inboard end of the table is raised, you can not lift the outboard end of the table out of the two fittings. These latching two fittings helps lock the table into place normally.
Lift the inboard end of the table and remove the metal support leg. Yes, if this is not done regularly, you may have to unscrew the fittings and use a penetrating oil to free the SS leg from the aluminum fitting. Anyway, after the leg is removed, you can lower the inboard end of the table. This lowering of the inboard end enables you to lift the outboard end out of the two fittings on the bulkhead/outboard end of the table. If the inboard end of the table is raised, you can not lift the outboard end of the table out of the two fittings. These latching two fittings helps lock the table into place normally.
- Status