How to build a Hooka surface air supply system?

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Apr 22, 2001
497
Hunter 420 Norfolk, VA
I am interested in building a hooka surface air supply system. This 2009 thread:
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=109208
has given me some good info. My original intent was for a 12v powered system. Then I realized that the 110v Porter Cable oiless compressor (135psi, 2.6 scfm@90psi, 2HP, 6 gallon) that I have might be OK to use. It is about 7 years old. I wonder if some kind of air filters might make this older tank's air clean enough to breath?

I am not certified, but have done 5-6 resort dives (1/2 day classes each) in Caribbean and Australia as well as being very comfortable under water. My reason for considering this system is so I do not need to continue to free dive to pull the Egeria densa weeds around my dock (they have been getting worse every year. I work in a 5' - 15' depth so with a quick push (or kick) to the surface while exhaling is an easy thing if the hooka system stopped pumping air.

I'd be curious of the components, specs and sources that others have used for air filters, second stage hooka regulators, air hose, check valve, harness, etc. Thanks
This thread has been coming up about once a year for the past 10 years that I have been on this forum. Pretty much always the same responses... the "you're gonna die" camp and the "I'll do what I want" camp.


In the Summer of '01, shortly after commissioning my boat, I purchased (from Cosco) a 115V, oil-less, compressor that produced ~ 110 psi . I permanently installed it under the port settee; and hard wired it to my A/C electrical panel. I bought an inexpensive paint-sprayer regulator (w/ water separator) from Home Depot ( to reduce the air pressure down to ~ 80psi).
"Downstream" from the regulator (via a quick-disconnect fitting) I have 50' of hose to a SCUBA 2d stage regulator. (Yes, I am certified... open water and NITROX) .
For the past 10 seasons, about 5-6 times each Summer ( and a few times each Winter in the Keys) I have been starting my 6KW Northern Lights generator, flipping the switch to start the compressor, throwing the hose and 2d stage in the water and diving on my boat to clean the bottom, change zincs, find stuff lost overboard (in water less than ~20-25'), etc. etc.. (I also use the compressor to inflate my RIB).
Despite using this "rig" now for 10 seasons; ... at 62, I'm still alive, (I think)... I have never suffered any ill effects from using my system, and will continue to do so for the forseeable future... or until my old bones just say ... "screw it".
Oh, and Ross, with all due respect... a rake just won't "get-it". You might be able to clean a little scum at and near the water line... but that's about it.

In any case, as with so many other things... to each his own.
 
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Dec 19, 2006
5,818
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
Thanks Buck

WOW finally maybe we can lay this thing to rest or not but any way,I was thinking of doing the same but never got around to any thing.
I just can't make up my mind which kind of setup to have,12v,110 or gas,so what I do for now is just carry a scuba tank with 40 ft of hose and use that to go under my bottom and clean the prop and change zincs,I don't scrub my bottom just sailing seems to keep it pretty clean with just some slime after it sits for the 2 months while I am up here in NY.
I see the divers at my marina using mostly a small 110 tankless unit to scrube the other boats in my marina,most boats in my marina do this every month and I think they are just wearing the bottom paint off faster but that's just my thoughts,I just sail mine alot maybe that's the answer.
Nick
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,818
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
Also

This same subject comes up all the time on many other web sites and it's all the same about how if you make your own you are going to die.
Nick
 
Jul 17, 2009
94
Endeavour/Chrysler E-32/C-22 swimming pool
I was hopeing someone was going to tell how many coconuts it took to make the one they had on Gilligans Island, nobody ever died useing theirs.

I've used fresh air systems when painting cars, the only reason I haven't built one from all the parts I have setting around my garage because were our boat is the water is to murky to see 6" infront of you. I'm thinking up to 10 hrs practice in a 4' swimming pool is better then Bob D. got :eek:)

I'm all for experimentation.... you go first!
 
Apr 22, 2001
497
Hunter 420 Norfolk, VA
This same subject comes up all the time on many other web sites and it's all the same about how if you make your own you are going to die.
Nick
Yeah ... but ...

I DO understand people's concerns. Things can happen and there certainly ARE risks (to many things, not just diving). However, "like so many other things", using common sense, keeping your equipment properly maintained, and realizing your limits, ... hopefully reduce the risks to an acceptably level. What that level is ... is for each to decide.

Actually, I'm more concerned about stinging nettles than an air embolism... and I probably have far less chance of having a heart attack diving under the boat than having one on deck with a 20 something wearing a thong. :)

But that's just me.
 
Aug 18, 2010
20
Mastercrtaft Prostar 190 Discovery Bay
Tom,

Yes, I too would be curious of the Hookah system you went with (or built). As mentioned please PM me if you'd rather not send info through the forum.

My latest leaning is towards the SCUBAPUMPS Small Electric Hookah $395:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-SCUBAPUMPS-...2QQcategoryZ1300QQcmdZViewItem#ht_4513wt_1026

It is not a bother for plugging into dock 110v instead of using my battery bank. I am in a quandry over a constant running vs a model with supply tank(s) like:

$550 (110v) http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-SCUBAPUMPS-...87566547?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0#ht_4476wt_1139


$750 (12v) http://www.hookamax.com/17710.html


I imagine getting an inverter would not be a big deal, but I wonder if there is an inherent plus to a 12 v or 110v system?
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
110 vs 12 volts

I'd be opting for the 12 volt version. Connecting me to 110 volt anything while in the water is just asking for trouble. Yes the hose is the only thing that apparently is connecting you to the possably shorting out electrical motor but my luck is that after I have to surface due to the motor being shorted you I'll forget I'm wet and touch the dang thing......zap! If I had to use 110 volts then I'd put it in a cage so you can't just "get to it" easily.
FWIW
 
Aug 18, 2010
20
Mastercrtaft Prostar 190 Discovery Bay
The GFCI circuit seems to kick off pretty easily, so I was not concerned about shock. BUt if used at someone else's dock that may not be GFCI (as it should be), that might be a concern.
 

Tom

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Sep 25, 2008
73
Lancer 28 T Great Lakes
Brian, I used a porter cable OIL LESS "pancake" compressor (got it at Home Depot with a brad nailer and a staple driver, still haven't used the staple driver. The brad nailer is cool though). I got 50 feet of air hose from a auto supply. Lastly I bought a 2nd stage regulator from a dive shop. I think it's very important to make sure the inside of the compressor tank is dry before storing it

tom
s/v GAIA
 
Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
Thanks Tom. I was doing some more research and found Hookamax (might have been mentioned here) and Scubapumps (may have also been mentioned here). Both are reasonably priced with the Scubapumps being the lesser of the two.

I do appreciate the info, Tom. Might look into making my own but also might looking into buying on for the boat.
 
Aug 18, 2010
20
Mastercrtaft Prostar 190 Discovery Bay
I decided to look further into a DIY system. I just ordered a CD for $6 on Ebay. I'll report back here on how thorough it's info is. It does seem a somewhat simple system, but I'd feel more comfortable having the specs of the components outlined so I could feel confident I was not using a 'weak link' or missing a link in my system to be as safe and healthy as possible.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...20&ssPageName=ADME:L:OU:US:1123#ht_3515wt_996
 
Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
I guess the biggest thing that concerns me is the noise generated by the compressor. I'd hate to have it running on the dock for an hour while I clean the bottom of my boat. I know it would only be for 1 day out of maybe 90. But none the less...

Looking forward to your report.
 
Aug 18, 2010
20
Mastercrtaft Prostar 190 Discovery Bay
Brian,

Good point. When I or a neighbor is pressure washing there deck or dock, all the neighbors suffer the noise. I will weigh that heavier in my decision.

Purge valve on your regulator...
In actual use shallow hookah diving is a purge valve of any value? (not like I expect to 'hurl' in my regulator and need to clear 'that' out! ;o)
Initially i was thinking if I buy a regulator for a DIY system, and could get one with a purge for say $85 (vs. $65 w/o), I get the purge option. In a limited search for 2nd stage regulators, I have yet to see one offered with a purge valve. The lower pressure Hookah regulators do not seem to offer a purge valve.
$65 regulator http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Scuba-Divin...0223711548?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0#ht_533wt_770
 
Aug 18, 2010
20
Mastercrtaft Prostar 190 Discovery Bay
On the noise factor...
I can't imagine there is much if any decibel level difference between a given sized compressor powered by a 110v vs 12v motor. I think the only dB difference would be on the amount of time the compressor runs. A compressor w/ tank would running intermitantly (probably mostly on?), while a no tanked compressor would run full time. I don't know if on, off, on... would be less annoying or not??

After I get my and my neighbor's extensive weeds pulled, I will try to line up pull weeds for cash to generate some income in these challenging economic times. I have one paying gig already lined up. Come on 'How To' CD, get here so I can make some decisions! ;o) It went out in the mail Friday. I'll likely get it later next week.
 
Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
Wonder if this would work. Would even have a backup tank.
Don't know but I wouldn't go too cheap. Remember it is giving you the air to live underwater. LOL

Off topic. How long you been in CYMCV? I berthed there from '05 to '08. First on the G dock then on the J dock. Great marina. Very quiet except when ice cream truck rolls around in the park. LOL
 
Aug 16, 2009
1,000
Hunter 1986 H31 California Yacht Marina, Chula Vista, CA
Since I am new to sailing, Brian, I have only been here a few months. It is a nice Marina with relatively little activity. They have a number of empty slips so they are trying to push it by offering lots of little extras. And yes, the ice cream man is persistent if nothing else. That obnoxious little tune seem to play all day. Only drawback is that the only real sailing is in the bay, and it's a fur piece up and back to SD bay. I'm in the midst of redoing the galley and head, so we've been sailing in the rough. It's also haul out time and I've been looking for a local yard that will let me polish the hull and jpaint the bottom myself. Any ideas?
 
Aug 16, 2009
1,000
Hunter 1986 H31 California Yacht Marina, Chula Vista, CA
I gotta say this is a serious internal debate. Divers charge about $25 a month to clean the bottom. Diving in murky yucky marina water around some liveaboards that my have questionable discharge practices . . . well
 
Feb 17, 2006
5,274
Lancer 27PS MCB Camp Pendleton KF6BL
No, can't help you on the yard. I haul out in Oceanside. There they will let you work on your own boat. If I remember correctly, in the Bay the haul out yards will not let you work on your boat. I could be wrong, but I think that is one reason why I never hauled out there. You do have a yard right next door to you. But I have hear mixed things about that.

And by the way, I used to do my own bottom cleaning there. The water is very acidic. I got some in my mask once and had to surface and wash my eyes out. Very nasty water. There need to be a cut in the causeway to let the water in the bay circulate. Don't know why they will not do it.

Enjoy.
 
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