Have replaced engine coolant in H326 and every thing seems ok engine wise. Pretty sure that the potable water heater is not working though and am aware of a bleed screw on the water return? pipe near the engine. I have no idea what and when to do anything with it though! I did unscrew it all the way and didn't see any coolant in there! Any one out there help?
How to bleed the water heater heat exchanger on 2003 H326
- Thread starter stuendan
- Start date
Most times when I replace the coolant in my engine I have to ''burp it', afterwards in order for the WH to work properly. Don gave you the secret. Start the engine, remove the coolant tank cap and watch the coolant when the engine reaches operating temp. You should see air bubbles come through the coolant and burst at the cap opening. When no more bubbles, fill up with coolant as needed, & put the cap back on. The water of my 6 gallon water heater takes about 20 minutes to get hot when engine is running under load. It gets at same temp as engine (71 C). Good luck
Thanks guys, I did Joe's trick yesterday to flush, then fill, and will finish with Don and Claude's air bleed next time I get the engine up to temperature. 
Today is fuel day and I will attempt to pump out the fuel tank if I can get a hose into it from the fuel cap. I intend to put the 50 odd litres of fuel back in via a "Mr Filter" fuel filter/funnel. Then change primary and secondary fuel filters! One thing I have picked up via YouTube etc., is to not crank the engine for too long without it starting, as the exhaust system can fill up with water and eventually back up into the engine Close the sea water cock when using the motor (decompression valves open) to prime the system, or whenever! Can't wait to convert to electric drive (when battery prices come down)
Today is fuel day and I will attempt to pump out the fuel tank if I can get a hose into it from the fuel cap. I intend to put the 50 odd litres of fuel back in via a "Mr Filter" fuel filter/funnel. Then change primary and secondary fuel filters! One thing I have picked up via YouTube etc., is to not crank the engine for too long without it starting, as the exhaust system can fill up with water and eventually back up into the engine Close the sea water cock when using the motor (decompression valves open) to prime the system, or whenever! Can't wait to convert to electric drive (when battery prices come down) 
On my H310 I disconnected the hoses at eh engine and made a 1/4" nylon tubing "catheter" for my fluid evacuator. Was able to get pretty much every drop. Di similar for the fresh water side of the heater, draining the water to the bottom of the tank, not above, where the drain cock is located. I did not use a drop of the yucky antifreeze in my potable water system this year. I never again will use it.
I use my Jabsco Drill Pump to bleed my water system. I pull the return line and pull coolant through that and return it to the reservoir. Run on high speed until you see not more bubbles and then go for anouther minute just to be sure.