How should I finish exterior teak?

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Nov 9, 2008
1,338
Pearson-O'Day 290 Portland Maine
Nuff said. I am making a plague to mount between my motor mount and the hull. The PO had a nasty looking piece of marine ply, badly painted and peeling like a coed at spring break. I'm making a shield shape out of teak, to sort of emulate the profile of the transom. I think I want to finish it with spar varnish.

Anybody?
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,364
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
The usual choices, regardless of the extent of the work. Varnish will look great, but require care and refinishing, always a daunting task. Cetol? Many shades available now, could work. Bare wood - you already want to treat it. Oil? Requires regular m maintenance.

Your boat, your choice.

Varnish seems like too much future work, though.
 
Jul 13, 2010
1,100
Precision 23 Perry Hall,Baltimore County
I only have a few teak rails (hatch slides) light sanded, 2 coats cetol. So far,so good. But, I basically have NO experience on this on, expect I may have to do again this fall based on all of my reading here. The plaque is going to be between the mounting bracket and Transom? Extra long thru bolts now? Dave
 
Nov 9, 2008
1,338
Pearson-O'Day 290 Portland Maine
Yes, long bolts. Nearest I can tell, Lancers were designed with a motor well in the stern. Open the lazaret, anf there's the outboard. A PO glassed over the well and put the motor on a variable mount and to reinforce the mounting, he added the plywood and a few extra bolts. I hope to make it look prettier, that's all. If I have to pull four bolt and slap on a coat of varnish every couple of years, that'd be OK.
 
Jun 9, 2008
1,850
- -- -Bayfield
After you have cleaned and sanded your teak (if needed) you can use teak oil, but that is subject to evaporation and so you have to keep reapplying it to keep up with it. This is the cheapest approach. Sealers like Sikkens Cetol last a great deal longer and is fairly easy to apply. You cannot apply more than one coat per day, but 3 coats are required/recommended (not two) and you have two weeks to apply three coats without having to sand between coats. This will give you a nice matt finish, but if you want high gloss, then you can apply gloss Sikkens over the first 3 coats of the original (you cannot apply gloss alone). The latest version of Cetol has UV filters unlike the previous generations. But like varnish with UV filters, they last only so long and need replenishing (but UV protection is better than those without it. Varnishing is the most labor intensive and difficult to deal with. Teak has natural oils in the wood, so preparation is important for good adhesion. Years ago there were epoxy bases one used to make a barrier between the wood and varnish, but now Epiphanes makes a varnish especially formulated for teak. The first coat is 50/50, the next is 25%, the next is 10% and then you use it full strength, but any good varnish applyer will tell you that a little thinner in varnish will make it flow out better. Read the instructions on the can as it will give you some decent information. To get a real nice varnish finish you have to put on 8 to 10 coats or more. If you sand between coats, then you will remove some, but follow the instructions as there is a window where you can apply more varnish without having to sand. But, if you apply varnish coats too soon, then you won't give the drying solvents to evaporate properly enough and so you can get alligatoring. Read the label instructions.
You don't want glossy wood on surfaces that you walk on. So, if you have teak decks, I don't recommend a gloss. The Sikkens or oil will work well for those. Caprails, handrails, and trim are nice when finished bright (glossy). Inside (I know you didn't ask) you can use a satin varnish which flows out much nicer and is easier to work with than gloss, but they often don't have UV inhibitors in them. Read the labels.
 
Nov 9, 2008
1,338
Pearson-O'Day 290 Portland Maine
OK,OK! MY fingers are ilcesdix! And auto-correct isn't always a helper! Besides, I was alway partial to hail that bursts into flames. I'm a guy.
 

kenn

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Apr 18, 2009
1,271
CL Sandpiper 565 Toronto
For the teak plaque - I'd definitely recommend Cetol.

It's my experience that Cetol penetrates and adheres more readily to old, drier teak. I found that the new teak I installed was the first to start peeling, probably due to natural oil. But leave it in the weather long enough, it will be old and dry too. ;)
 
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