When I did my bulkhead I was advised to put a temporary support in if I the bulkhead was going to be removed for a while. Based on that advise it might be best to do one bulkhead at a time to help maintain the hull and cabin's shape
How serious is this rot?
- Thread starter jdallas
- Start date
ahh... the hidden screw.. oh those hidden screws!!!! In some cases it seems like they install the screw first and then screw the wood into it!I also just picked up a 25 tall rig that needs the bulkhead replaced. Mine needs the starboard side. Was the bulkhead tabbed into the hull? I’m reading conflicting accounts for the 25. Mine’s a 1985. I’m debating if taking the mast down is necessary or if I can get away with attaching the upper to the toe rail while doing the repair in one shot over a nice weekend.
On my first Catalina 30 we had the exact same rot. That bulkhead is structural in the sense that the chain plates bolt into it and it helps prevent twist while under sail. Replacing it is a bit of a pain BUT it is not complicated, the most difficult part is matching the curve of the hull on the lower port side. In order to get the new bulkhead in we had to cut it in half vertically with the two joints at a 45 or so degree angle and then put a vertical strip of wood with screws over it to secure the two halves together. I have pics of it somewhere but will take a while to dig them up.
I am assuming that the original bulkhead was put in place before the deck was attached so that is why we cut it in half to fit it in. If you have any questions let me know I'd be glad to help where I can.
I am assuming that the original bulkhead was put in place before the deck was attached so that is why we cut it in half to fit it in. If you have any questions let me know I'd be glad to help where I can.
Attached are some pix of the bulkhead replacement project. It was not necessary to remove the compression post but maneuvering the new port bulkhead into place was like a magic trick, but it was able to be done in one piece. I used the old bulkheads as templates to cut the shape but drilled the holes for the chainplates and the tabbing screws once it was in place. (The hidden screw was NOT replaced.)The starboard bulkhead practically jumped into place on its own but the port bulkhead required a lot of wailing and gnashing of teeth. I used Hydrotek Meranti and was able to cut both bulkheads from one 4 x 8 piece. The stain, however, did not quite match the existing interior. Three coats of marine spar varnish followed. The backs (forward sides) were painted satin white. The project was completed with the mast down and the boat on the trailer. The louver doors did match up until the boat was in the water, the mast was raised and the shrouds tensioned. After that they were misaligned by about 1/4".
