Yesterday was the first Mast-Raising attempt for our (new to us) H260; a boat that had come without a mast-raising pole. A friend with an H26 showed me his mast pole and I then fabricated one for the 260 out of 3/4" black iron (gas pipe). Rigging went wrong, the pole levered forward, and we managed to can-opener the mast base at the insertion point, and here're some questions for the next time we try, (after repairs to the mast). What went wrong? His H26 uses a cleat on the mast to hold the jib halyard, but on our 260, we ran the halyard to the cleat next to the anchor locker. Would this have caused the pole to swing forward? Should we run the line through the mast-base shackle and back to the stopper near the cockpit? Is the 10 degree angle as viewed from horizontal or as viewed from the spar angle after it's in the mast base? The system seems prone to failure, at least the way I'm seeing it, so has anybody rigged a support line from the top of the post to the mast in order to maintain the angle between the pole and the spar? Is there a secret that I'm obviously not aware of? I'm going to using the mast raising system every time we sail, so getting it "right" is mandatory. Thanks from a newbie that really, really wants to get the boat wet.
how NOT to raise a mast on a 260...
- Thread starter Rick H260
- Start date
- Status
How not to raise a mast
Rick: Join the crowd. Just about everybody has a story to tell. Suggest you purchase a gin pole from Hunter. Last time I checked it was $80.00. PH: (800) 771-5556 Since you are new to the boat I suggest spending lots of time in the archives. I've tried to consolidate some of the better ideas in this website: http://www.kobernus.com/hunter260/index.html Not sure you have a good grasp of the mast raising procedure. There is a mast raising checklist with pictures that may help. Also, check out the knowledgebase for the H260. Regarding the angle of the gin pole: See these links: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/checklist2/target20.html http://kobernus.com/hunter260/checklist2/target21.html
Rick: Join the crowd. Just about everybody has a story to tell. Suggest you purchase a gin pole from Hunter. Last time I checked it was $80.00. PH: (800) 771-5556 Since you are new to the boat I suggest spending lots of time in the archives. I've tried to consolidate some of the better ideas in this website: http://www.kobernus.com/hunter260/index.html Not sure you have a good grasp of the mast raising procedure. There is a mast raising checklist with pictures that may help. Also, check out the knowledgebase for the H260. Regarding the angle of the gin pole: See these links: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/checklist2/target20.html http://kobernus.com/hunter260/checklist2/target21.html
give it a minutes thought
if you attach the halyard any where but the mast cleat, the halyard will not stay stationary as it should during the raising/lowering process, Attaching the jib halyard to the bow cleat as you did, and then hauling the sheet attached to your gin pole caused the halyard to slacken as the mast came. up..and yes absolutely the gin pole folded forward doing really nasty damage. I have an H26 and figure the 260 must have a similar system that one of the august members here will enlighten you about, Really sorry you damaged your boat, I know how that feels..I had a Mac 26 classic that suffered a dismasting at sea because the friend who helped me rig did not secure the headstay properly..ouch Hope you are able to repair without having to buy the farm..I am curios how you intend to do the repair..my guess would be to have a plate fashioned to fit snuggly over the damaged area, then drilled out to accept the gin pole, and then properly welded. One last note..I don't like the black Iron gin pole idea, black iron is highly malleable (soft) and could easily bend with the tremendous stresses exerted during the raising process, the stock gin pole is rigid aluminum, lighter, but much less likely to bend.
if you attach the halyard any where but the mast cleat, the halyard will not stay stationary as it should during the raising/lowering process, Attaching the jib halyard to the bow cleat as you did, and then hauling the sheet attached to your gin pole caused the halyard to slacken as the mast came. up..and yes absolutely the gin pole folded forward doing really nasty damage. I have an H26 and figure the 260 must have a similar system that one of the august members here will enlighten you about, Really sorry you damaged your boat, I know how that feels..I had a Mac 26 classic that suffered a dismasting at sea because the friend who helped me rig did not secure the headstay properly..ouch Hope you are able to repair without having to buy the farm..I am curios how you intend to do the repair..my guess would be to have a plate fashioned to fit snuggly over the damaged area, then drilled out to accept the gin pole, and then properly welded. One last note..I don't like the black Iron gin pole idea, black iron is highly malleable (soft) and could easily bend with the tremendous stresses exerted during the raising process, the stock gin pole is rigid aluminum, lighter, but much less likely to bend.
Update on Mast Raising pole
Thanks for the photos and tips, guys. My friend showed me his H26 pole and I copied it with the black iron. 5/8" semi circle in the bottom end and a couple of eye-bolts in the top side. The pole seems to be at least as good as an OEM pole and even has a second eye-bolt at the 9' height to increase the angle of attack...although we never got to test that! I'm thinking that the slipping occurred because the jib halyard led to the anchor locker cleat instead of rounding the mast base block and back to the stopper? Several of you gentlemen have mentioned the mast cleat... mine doesn't have one, so would you please confirm that there is/are a cleat on the mast base? Which side, if only one cleat? I'll mount one this week if it's the right way to secure the jib halyard.
Thanks for the photos and tips, guys. My friend showed me his H26 pole and I copied it with the black iron. 5/8" semi circle in the bottom end and a couple of eye-bolts in the top side. The pole seems to be at least as good as an OEM pole and even has a second eye-bolt at the 9' height to increase the angle of attack...although we never got to test that! I'm thinking that the slipping occurred because the jib halyard led to the anchor locker cleat instead of rounding the mast base block and back to the stopper? Several of you gentlemen have mentioned the mast cleat... mine doesn't have one, so would you please confirm that there is/are a cleat on the mast base? Which side, if only one cleat? I'll mount one this week if it's the right way to secure the jib halyard.
H26 & H260 are different
Rick, You are correct that you must go through the turning block at the base of the mast and use the cleat back by your winch to secure the jib or spinnaker halyard.
Rick, You are correct that you must go through the turning block at the base of the mast and use the cleat back by your winch to secure the jib or spinnaker halyard.
H260 Mast Raising
from the posts and photos so far, would it be safe to say that the mast raising process is at best...delicate? OK, how to make the process more mechanically predictable is my quest, so first thing to learn is the How of the failure. I see (now) that the pole going into the mast has no more support than the entry hole's rim... there's nothing inside the mast at the channel (back side of the mast) to lock the pole into position. Am I incorrect about this? If not, then the failure must have been caused by slippage of the pole inside the mast, and of the two potential causes, the jib halyard is the culprit. Question is, would my securing the halyard according to the book (around the block and back to a cleat or stopper) create a perfect fix? Would creating a fixed, known, secondary line from the top of the pole to a point equidistant up the mast maintain that critical angle as well as eliminating the potential for slippage? My Iron pole is a good one, but the advice of this list supports my getting the OEM pole, so I will do so... The one I've made will become the substitute
from the posts and photos so far, would it be safe to say that the mast raising process is at best...delicate? OK, how to make the process more mechanically predictable is my quest, so first thing to learn is the How of the failure. I see (now) that the pole going into the mast has no more support than the entry hole's rim... there's nothing inside the mast at the channel (back side of the mast) to lock the pole into position. Am I incorrect about this? If not, then the failure must have been caused by slippage of the pole inside the mast, and of the two potential causes, the jib halyard is the culprit. Question is, would my securing the halyard according to the book (around the block and back to a cleat or stopper) create a perfect fix? Would creating a fixed, known, secondary line from the top of the pole to a point equidistant up the mast maintain that critical angle as well as eliminating the potential for slippage? My Iron pole is a good one, but the advice of this list supports my getting the OEM pole, so I will do so... The one I've made will become the substitute
When done right it's the easiest system around
Hey Rick I trailer mine everywhere, often and can't imagine an easier system once you get the process wired(really). The fixed side struts are a key and even allow stepping the mast on the water(after you become proficeint). Stuff you won't read in the manual are safety/time saver tidbits gleened from experience (some we want to forget, eh?). here's some to chew on. A couple lines stabilizing the gin pole amidship until the mast is safely upright seem prudent. The stay T-fittings work great until one's not seated right, so a couple tie wraps around the mast to alighn them should do. Watch the side stay turnbuckles (I've wedged foam blocks in mine, keeping them upright). Grind a blunt point on the mast base pin (it'll find home easier). If the base pin is tough to get in double check that the mast is alighned amidship. Put short safety leashes for all your pins near where they'll be needed(keeping them from flying overboard during assy) and use SS hitch pins wherever practical. Immediatly replace chafed/old lines and damaged/rusty fastners. And lastly....reef early
(hey, I couldn't resist). Be methodical, safe and slow. Double check everything, ask questions and don't be shy about it. It'll eventually save your butt. Nobody's an expert we all stand on the shoulders of someone elses experience and this is a great place for help. A huge thanks to George for an excellent web site on his experiences with his boat, good and (ouch)bad. Enjoy your new 260, it's a great boat for your spot. Aloha, Michael and Kelli
Hey Rick I trailer mine everywhere, often and can't imagine an easier system once you get the process wired(really). The fixed side struts are a key and even allow stepping the mast on the water(after you become proficeint). Stuff you won't read in the manual are safety/time saver tidbits gleened from experience (some we want to forget, eh?). here's some to chew on. A couple lines stabilizing the gin pole amidship until the mast is safely upright seem prudent. The stay T-fittings work great until one's not seated right, so a couple tie wraps around the mast to alighn them should do. Watch the side stay turnbuckles (I've wedged foam blocks in mine, keeping them upright). Grind a blunt point on the mast base pin (it'll find home easier). If the base pin is tough to get in double check that the mast is alighned amidship. Put short safety leashes for all your pins near where they'll be needed(keeping them from flying overboard during assy) and use SS hitch pins wherever practical. Immediatly replace chafed/old lines and damaged/rusty fastners. And lastly....reef early
(hey, I couldn't resist). Be methodical, safe and slow. Double check everything, ask questions and don't be shy about it. It'll eventually save your butt. Nobody's an expert we all stand on the shoulders of someone elses experience and this is a great place for help. A huge thanks to George for an excellent web site on his experiences with his boat, good and (ouch)bad. Enjoy your new 260, it's a great boat for your spot. Aloha, Michael and Kelli
Help for the gin pole
Many years ago, Crazy Dave gave me a tip for the gin pole. Go to Home Depot or whatever suits you. Buy a dowel that will fit inside the pole and cut length to fit. This will structurally help keep the pole rigid. Jim S/V Java
Many years ago, Crazy Dave gave me a tip for the gin pole. Go to Home Depot or whatever suits you. Buy a dowel that will fit inside the pole and cut length to fit. This will structurally help keep the pole rigid. Jim S/V Java
Mast Raising
Rick: No need to remove the mast. Looks like an easy fix. IHMO I think all you need to do is to drill out the rivets and use the plate as a templet. You now know what it should look like from the pics. Make sure the hole is a close fit and I don't think it would hurt to double the plate up if the mast section underneath is damaged. If the hole was already enlarged I think your guess about the history of your boat is correct. The pole was trashed during a stepping operation. Probably the reason for selling the boat. His loss your gain. I'm sure others might have some advice on replacing the hole section. For example, I'm still confused about if it's OK to use stainless steel rivets or aluminum are best. I've been told that SS reacts with aluminum and that it might not be a good idea.
Rick: No need to remove the mast. Looks like an easy fix. IHMO I think all you need to do is to drill out the rivets and use the plate as a templet. You now know what it should look like from the pics. Make sure the hole is a close fit and I don't think it would hurt to double the plate up if the mast section underneath is damaged. If the hole was already enlarged I think your guess about the history of your boat is correct. The pole was trashed during a stepping operation. Probably the reason for selling the boat. His loss your gain. I'm sure others might have some advice on replacing the hole section. For example, I'm still confused about if it's OK to use stainless steel rivets or aluminum are best. I've been told that SS reacts with aluminum and that it might not be a good idea.
- Status