After having put up with excessive drip from by prop shaft for a couple of years and after having gotten much conflicting information on how to re-pack the gland, I finally did it yesterday. I did this while the boat was in the water and had no difficulty other then the fact that I could not find any old packing material to remove and could only get one ring of 1/4 teflon packing into the gland. It seems to working fine, in fact, better then it ever did, but I am confused. I now have only an occassional drip when motoring and none when stopped. After motoring for about 2 hours the shaft is mildly warm but could not be described as hot. Is it possible that I had no packing material at all and was still able to avoid a disaster?? Is there really only room for one ring of material?? Right now it is working fine so I don't want to disturb it if I don't have to .
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Stuffing box
Bob, we have encountered the same situation as you have, and one ring of stuffing worked OK. However, when we had the boat out of the water, we aggresively removed all the packing. It can get so packed that you don't realize that it is in there. Chuck
Bob, we have encountered the same situation as you have, and one ring of stuffing worked OK. However, when we had the boat out of the water, we aggresively removed all the packing. It can get so packed that you don't realize that it is in there. Chuck
packing material
I re-packed my 86 C30 last year. Dug out three rings of packing material and replaced with three rings. Actually I used the green no-drip stuff from West. You put one ring of the green stuff between two rings of normal packing. Doesn't leak & so far hasn't run hot. Ron
I re-packed my 86 C30 last year. Dug out three rings of packing material and replaced with three rings. Actually I used the green no-drip stuff from West. You put one ring of the green stuff between two rings of normal packing. Doesn't leak & so far hasn't run hot. Ron
Drip-rate
The "old fashioned" flax packing should have a 1-2 drips per minute rate with the prop turning, but none when the shaft is not turning. This low drip-rate is to provide the little bit of lubrication needed. Warm-to-the-touch is OK; too-hot-to-hold is not. It sounds like you weren't able to get it all out -- typically, there are three rings of flax in there. --RonD
The "old fashioned" flax packing should have a 1-2 drips per minute rate with the prop turning, but none when the shaft is not turning. This low drip-rate is to provide the little bit of lubrication needed. Warm-to-the-touch is OK; too-hot-to-hold is not. It sounds like you weren't able to get it all out -- typically, there are three rings of flax in there. --RonD
stuffing box
I did my Catalina 30 stuffing box packing over the winter on land. I removed 3 pieces of packing. I use a dry wall screw to get the old packing out. It works well put afterwards I purchased a tool used for this at West which is a corkscrew on a flex with a handle which might help as I did cut my hands a few times using the drywall screw as the old packing can be tough to remove. I got 2 rings of new packing in. And after several trips have it down to one drip a minute underway and none when the engine is off. You may want to put one ring in tighten a bit, then undo it and add the next and so forth. I also keep a toilet wax ring on board if I have to dive over and seal the shaft while I do the work. It takes me a while to get it right and I would probably get nervous watching all the water coming in.
I did my Catalina 30 stuffing box packing over the winter on land. I removed 3 pieces of packing. I use a dry wall screw to get the old packing out. It works well put afterwards I purchased a tool used for this at West which is a corkscrew on a flex with a handle which might help as I did cut my hands a few times using the drywall screw as the old packing can be tough to remove. I got 2 rings of new packing in. And after several trips have it down to one drip a minute underway and none when the engine is off. You may want to put one ring in tighten a bit, then undo it and add the next and so forth. I also keep a toilet wax ring on board if I have to dive over and seal the shaft while I do the work. It takes me a while to get it right and I would probably get nervous watching all the water coming in.
Stuffing box redux
Bob Your Catalina Owner's Manual should clearly describe how many rings are required. For our C34, it's three, we use the green goop dripless from West Marine. If you don't have a manual, try the C30 Association website, they may have one posted. I know we do on www.c34.org. From the home page, click on Manuals. My guess it's the same. I forget which page it is on, but it is a full 8 1/2 x 11 page with a section diagram of the stuffing box, stern tube, rings, etc., very well done. Also don't know if you've checked the archives on this site. Keel humm and stuffing boxes seems to be the most popular items on this forum. The archives search engine is just superior, and if you haven't you should try it. The link below is just a sample. Good luck, no problem doing it in the water, and you don't even have to go outside the boat to stop water intrusion. Just wrap a plastic bag over the stern tube inside with duct tape, not that the amount of water coming in is a problem, the bilge pump will more than keep up with it. Stu
Bob Your Catalina Owner's Manual should clearly describe how many rings are required. For our C34, it's three, we use the green goop dripless from West Marine. If you don't have a manual, try the C30 Association website, they may have one posted. I know we do on www.c34.org. From the home page, click on Manuals. My guess it's the same. I forget which page it is on, but it is a full 8 1/2 x 11 page with a section diagram of the stuffing box, stern tube, rings, etc., very well done. Also don't know if you've checked the archives on this site. Keel humm and stuffing boxes seems to be the most popular items on this forum. The archives search engine is just superior, and if you haven't you should try it. The link below is just a sample. Good luck, no problem doing it in the water, and you don't even have to go outside the boat to stop water intrusion. Just wrap a plastic bag over the stern tube inside with duct tape, not that the amount of water coming in is a problem, the bilge pump will more than keep up with it. Stu
4 3/16 rings
I just did my stuffing box and I used 3/16 stuffing and the green stuff from W/M I removed 4 stuffing rings and put back 2rings and about a3/8 worm of green stuff works good but alittle messy afreind used the gortex and I think it is alittle better and easer and not so sticky. JohnOlson
I just did my stuffing box and I used 3/16 stuffing and the green stuff from W/M I removed 4 stuffing rings and put back 2rings and about a3/8 worm of green stuff works good but alittle messy afreind used the gortex and I think it is alittle better and easer and not so sticky. JohnOlson
Thanks for help
Thanks to all of the responders for the suggestions and insights. I plan to keep a close eye on the drip, and at the same time, purchase one of the corkscrew type tools so that I can do it right in the near future. Thanks again. This is a great forum.
Thanks to all of the responders for the suggestions and insights. I plan to keep a close eye on the drip, and at the same time, purchase one of the corkscrew type tools so that I can do it right in the near future. Thanks again. This is a great forum.
Stuffing Box
Once you do it right with the dripless stuffing you should only have to revisit the packing every 3-5 years. I've tried the flex corkscrew, glad it was borrowed, waste of money. The small drywall screw and a flex screwdriver really works like a champ. Pick a spot and screw it in. Keep turning, the screw will bottom out and the flax will back right out. May need to try a couple different places around the packing nut, if you can find the seam in the packing it is even easier. The edge will show it self, grab with some pliers and pull. Since I had a couple of the flexable drivers, I cut the handle off and use it in my cordless drill. Makes it a snap. For water control, I use a stip of rag, about 18"long maybe 3" wide, after removing the nut, wrap the rag around the shaft tube a couple time and tie it off. Stops 90% of the water. I use the GoreTex packing. http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html $9 package is enough for several packings.
Once you do it right with the dripless stuffing you should only have to revisit the packing every 3-5 years. I've tried the flex corkscrew, glad it was borrowed, waste of money. The small drywall screw and a flex screwdriver really works like a champ. Pick a spot and screw it in. Keep turning, the screw will bottom out and the flax will back right out. May need to try a couple different places around the packing nut, if you can find the seam in the packing it is even easier. The edge will show it self, grab with some pliers and pull. Since I had a couple of the flexable drivers, I cut the handle off and use it in my cordless drill. Makes it a snap. For water control, I use a stip of rag, about 18"long maybe 3" wide, after removing the nut, wrap the rag around the shaft tube a couple time and tie it off. Stops 90% of the water. I use the GoreTex packing. http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products/gfopacking/packing.html $9 package is enough for several packings.
Don't Buy The Corkscrew.
Bob Thought you got the message. Don't buy it, it won't fit, been there, done that and also sent you to posts about that very thing. Ken's right, use a screw. The corkscrew will NOT fit. Save $$, have fun! Stu
Bob Thought you got the message. Don't buy it, it won't fit, been there, done that and also sent you to posts about that very thing. Ken's right, use a screw. The corkscrew will NOT fit. Save $$, have fun! Stu
Perfect tool - a hemostat
When I replaced my 3/16 stuffing, I tried the corkscrew and learned that it wouldn't fit. I had an old hemostat which worked perfectly. It fit into the opening and would grip and extract the old flax packing in pieces. I've recently seen them for sale in flea markets and on e-bay for not much money. For my two cents it's the perfect tool for the job (also good for wiring and other jobs on the boat too).
When I replaced my 3/16 stuffing, I tried the corkscrew and learned that it wouldn't fit. I had an old hemostat which worked perfectly. It fit into the opening and would grip and extract the old flax packing in pieces. I've recently seen them for sale in flea markets and on e-bay for not much money. For my two cents it's the perfect tool for the job (also good for wiring and other jobs on the boat too).
Stuffing Box
I jut did the same thing to my Catalina 30 while it was in the water. It's possible that the stuffing was so hard it didn't appear to be removable. In my case two layers of the old material remained stuck to the shaft when I backed the nut off. The third layer was in the nut and I removed it with a curved dental pick. This was a blessing in disquise because the packing that stayed on the shaft actually helped hold the water back while I repacked the stuffing box. Either way if there was only one layer in the box you should put three in. I question whether one layer will seal well and most likely will need to be replaced sooner then if done correctly. I used the 1/4" goretex packing and am very pleased. Good luck! Wes
I jut did the same thing to my Catalina 30 while it was in the water. It's possible that the stuffing was so hard it didn't appear to be removable. In my case two layers of the old material remained stuck to the shaft when I backed the nut off. The third layer was in the nut and I removed it with a curved dental pick. This was a blessing in disquise because the packing that stayed on the shaft actually helped hold the water back while I repacked the stuffing box. Either way if there was only one layer in the box you should put three in. I question whether one layer will seal well and most likely will need to be replaced sooner then if done correctly. I used the 1/4" goretex packing and am very pleased. Good luck! Wes
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