So, I rewired my bilge pump. The positive lead to the pump had 4 splices in it...5 total connections if you take into account the crimped-on connector at the fuse panel. The negative wire had 3...4 with the connector. That's a grand total of 9 splices/connections in ONE accessory! Include the fact that the wire was the wrong color and one gauge too small...and that the first set of splices were UNDER bilge water and I'm surprised that the old pump worked at all!
I still have the issue of the old fuse panel being at ankle level in the cockpit, so that's another seperate issue to tackle later but I at least now know that I have a straight run of good wire to the pump. I also made my first connection at a 2-gang connection block placed inside a Carlon water resistant junction box.
Per recommendations I went with a small Rule 360GPH pump as my primary dewatering pump in the bilge with a seperate Rule 3700GPH mounted higher as an emergency back-up. The 3700 required a new 1-1/2" through-hull be installed, but it is nice to know that I can really move some water around in an emergency. Plus in a real desperate situation I can pull my raw water engine intake hose off its own through-hull and dewater. (Let's hope it never comes to this!)
I still have the issue of the old fuse panel being at ankle level in the cockpit, so that's another seperate issue to tackle later but I at least now know that I have a straight run of good wire to the pump. I also made my first connection at a 2-gang connection block placed inside a Carlon water resistant junction box.
Per recommendations I went with a small Rule 360GPH pump as my primary dewatering pump in the bilge with a seperate Rule 3700GPH mounted higher as an emergency back-up. The 3700 required a new 1-1/2" through-hull be installed, but it is nice to know that I can really move some water around in an emergency. Plus in a real desperate situation I can pull my raw water engine intake hose off its own through-hull and dewater. (Let's hope it never comes to this!)
