How hard to pull the old teak and holly?

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H30Gary

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Oct 27, 2011
154
Hunter 1980 Hunter 30 San Diego, Mission Bay
The teak and holly on my H30 is looking pretty tired. You can still see the beauty of the old wood, but it is pretty scratched up, dirty, and stained in a couple of areas where there was once water intrusion. Could try to refinish it, but think the results would be marginal and it might actually be easier to just replace the flooring with a new piece. Just wondering how hard it is to get the old stuff up. Looks to me the existing flooring is held on with screws and silicone rubber. So it shouldn't be that tough to remove. Any comments?
Thanks!
 
Bill Roosa

Bill Roosa

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Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
The teak is plywood with a thin layer of teak. You can probably sand out the scratches but the water stains are a more difficult matter.
Teak plywood is VERY expensive.
However, if you sort through the stacks of cabinet grade oak at your lumber store you can find some with straight grain. Stain it with teak stain and it is pretty hard to tell the difference.
course it is kinda like cleaning up a kids face, once you make a clean spot you have to do the whole thing.....
 
kito

kito

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Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
Bill Roosa said:
The teak is plywood with a thin layer of teak. You can probably sand out the scratches but the water stains are a more difficult matter.
Teak plywood is VERY expensive.
However, if you sort through the stacks of cabinet grade oak at your lumber store you can find some with straight grain. Stain it with teak stain and it is pretty hard to tell the difference.
course it is kinda like cleaning up a kids face, once you make a clean spot you have to do the whole thing.....
Click to expand
Just wondering how the oak veneer plywood holds up in moist conditions. This plywood is considered "interior" grade and not laid up using exterior grade glue. Just curious if you experienced ply delamination or the oak veneer peeling up. I was thinking of using it myself but would coat the edges and bottom with epoxy and polyurethane the oak veneer after staining.
 
Bill Roosa

Bill Roosa

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Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
How hard to pull the old teak and holly

I did use a generous mittenfull of polyurethane (7 coats) on both sides and inside the screw holes. So far it has survived 4 years and one major water tank leak the did take out the OEM marine grade plywood.
I use cabinet grade oak stained with teak and aspen for the holly.

The bilge cover with the finger hole in it is the new piece
 

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B

Blaise

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Jan 22, 2008
359
Hunter 37-cutter Bradenton
On Midnight Sun, I just covered it with 3/8" teak parque tile. It still looks good after 25 years. It was put down with West epoxy.
 
H

H30Gary

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Oct 27, 2011
154
Hunter 1980 Hunter 30 San Diego, Mission Bay
Re: How hard to pull the old teak and holly

Bill -
The new flooring looks beautiful. I'm just not sure my carpentry skills are good enough to make my own veneer. I have a cheap table saw, that's about it ....
 
H

H30Gary

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Oct 27, 2011
154
Hunter 1980 Hunter 30 San Diego, Mission Bay
BTW, we have a good hardwood lumber yard here in San Diego, Frost Hardwood, that carries the teak and holly plywood. Its about $200 for a 4' x 8' x 1/4" thick sheet. Expensive yes, but not that outrageous. My boat would only need one sheet.
 
pvtpotter

pvtpotter

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Sep 12, 2011
88
Hunter 27 Annapolis
Blaise said:
On Midnight Sun, I just covered it with 3/8" teak parque tile. It still looks good after 25 years. It was put down with West epoxy.
Click to expand
No, no, no !! :naughty:
It will be impossible to get up. :cussing: Parque? :doh:
 
pvtpotter

pvtpotter

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Sep 12, 2011
88
Hunter 27 Annapolis
H30Gary said:
BTW, we have a good hardwood lumber yard here in San Diego, Frost Hardwood, that carries the teak and holly plywood. Its about $200 for a 4' x 8' x 1/4" thick sheet. Expensive yes, but not that outrageous. My boat would only need one sheet.
Click to expand
Absolutely the way to go !
:D
 
Bill Roosa

Bill Roosa

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Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
hey Gary
The process is pretty simple with a tablesaw
Using the old sole as a pattern mark out the shape on the new 3/4" oak ply
also mark the "holly" lines, screw holes, finger holes etc
Using the table saw as a router cut the 1/4" slots for the "holly" 1/4" deep
Using the table saw cut 1/4" "holly" strips 3/4" deep
rough cut the new sole to shape using a hand held circular saw
stain the oak
insert the holly, they will stick up of course, don't worry
hand/block plane (they ain't that expensive) the holly down to just above the oak surface
rasp any angled, curved corners sides to match the old sole
poly till you are light headed from the fumes
pat yourself on the back for saving $300+ that will keep you in beer for most of the season
install the new sole and contemplate doing the rest of the sole boards cause they now look really S#$%@& in comparison
 
H

H30Gary

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Oct 27, 2011
154
Hunter 1980 Hunter 30 San Diego, Mission Bay
Bill -
Thanks for the instructions.
sounds like a good project, just a little beyond my skills as a woodworker.
Gary
 
Bill Roosa

Bill Roosa

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Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
So Gary
this is how you get those skills. Start on a small part and move on from there.
FWIW
 
SeaTR

SeaTR

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Jan 24, 2009
408
Hunter 22 Groton
I've replaced my bilge boards with Ipe and Maple strips glued up with exterior grade glue and sealed with Watco (tung oil). I do some cabinet work. It has been subject to sporatic bilge water and has held up for the past 3 years.

The Ipe is as rugged in the harsh saltwater environment as the teak, but is MUCH heavier. The maple, on the other hand, needs the tung oil to protect it from those conditions.

It looks great and is very close to the contrast of teak and holly.

My next iteration will probably be the 'x' number of polyurethane coats method. We'll see...
 
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