Main Sail
Thanks for the write up. This is the main reason I go to this website.
Now you have me questioning my own charging system. I have no idea of the capacity of my alternator (Yanmar 2GM20F) and now I need to go do a bit of checking. I never see my battery voltage up in the 14 volt region unless the engine is running.
I need to run down to the boat to see what king of shore power charger I have. There is no ammeter installed. Now you are going to force me replace my old AC with a new DC clamp on meter. How come it seems like every time I read a post from you it cost's me something?
Ken
Ken,
The reason for the poor performance of your factory alternator are three fold.
#1 This is an automotive duty alternator meant for a few minutes at best at full output then supplying perhaps 1-3A to the car battery and maybe 5-10A for the cars DC loads. On a boat with deep cycle batteries you are often asking it for hours at full output something it was never designed or intended to do..
#2 As a protective feature, to make the cheap alternator last though the warranty period, a temp gradient is built into the internal regulator. For every degree rise above about 69F it drops the absorption voltage limit. This in turn reduces current output and murders batteries by chronically under charging them. It also extends your charge times to well beyond 12 hours to reach full, if you ever do. In order to charge batteries in any reasonable time the absorption voltage needs to be maintained for multiple hours beyond the bulk to absorption transition.
#3 Your alternator is "
self-sensed" meaning it only knows what the system voltage is
at the alternator before any voltage drop occurs in the system wiring between the battery bank and the alternator.. Couple this with the horrible over-heat protection method (reducing charge voltage) and you get really, really crappy charging performance out of this type of factory alternator..
An external regulator, such as a Balmar, does the opposite in terms of alternator protection. Instead of reducing the absorption voltage it reduces the field. Reducing the field essentially reduces the current output but the target voltage, say 14.6V, remains unchanged. With the proper voltage sensing capabilities of an external regulator you get a significantly healthier charge, proper absorption voltages and faster charging.
If you have AGM batteries the charge sources really need to be
temp compensated or they can be ruined prematurely. For temperatures above 80F the charging voltage needs to be reduced and on the cold side charge voltages should ideally increase.. What this means is that if the battery says 14.4V absorption and 13.4V float this is the voltage to be used at 77F - 80F adjustments need to be made for warmer and colder temps.....
Spending the money on AGM batteries means you should care for them otherwise they will last no longer than a set of inexpensive Wal*Mart batteries only you'll be out a LOT more money...
AGM's are good investment for those who install and used them properly and a poor investment for those who don't..