Clay ---
Many scantling proven blue water boats have deck stepped masts. Just look at many of the Bob Perry designed boats. If the mast & compression post "system" is designed correctly there are some advantages of a deck stepped system: water tight, less weight (aloft). Of course the mast doesnt simply sit on a 'shoe' on top of the deck but rather is properly stress connected to the compression post via a through-bolted flange. The real functional difference between a deck stepped and a keel stepped is that if you encounter a complete roll-over: The deck stepped will usually compeletly go overboard and the keel stepped will usually break off with only a small stub of the mast sticking up. Strength wise they are about the same if designed correctly. Give me less water leaks from a deck stepped. ;-) Blue water boat: Large redundant structural safety factors, small cockpit so that when severely pooped the weight of the boarded water wont severelly affect trim/stability, small / bombproof companionway, small heavily constructed portlights (no 'windows'), oversized rigging and chainplates (FS @ 5-6)... inboard or outboard doesnt really matter, many reacheable handholds inside and outside, very high / strong bridgedeck, lots of internal stowage, lots of 'reserve' buoyancy, bombproof hatches, etc., sea hood for companionway hatch .... and a knowledgeable skipper. For blue water, nothing wrong with a deep fin keel with a balanced spade rudder as they are faster and thus able to better/faster sail away from stink weather. The modern trend is towards long water line boats, fractional sloops (with detachable solent stays), fractional rigs, deep fins and balanced spade rudders .... they are faster thus safer. They can point to weather better, have less leeway when beating, take less helm pressure to steer (less power needed with autopilots, etc,), if properly balanced can steer just as stable as the old fashioned / traditional full keeler with an attached 'barn door' rudder. After having a traditional 'blue water' full keeler with attached rudder for some time, I'd change to a modern fractional, deep fin with balanced spade in a heart-beat. Ever try to turn the rudder on a full keeler with attached rudder at hull speed?? .... it takes 4 men and a small boy to do so as the resistance pressure on a 'barn door' rudder is that great. A balanced spade rudder can easily be steered with a tiller ... finger tip pressure - better helm feedback, smaller AP, etc. With a 'barn door' rudder you NEED a wheel to gain the needed mechanical advantage. You want protection for an exposed spade rudder ... thats what the keel is for! I usually sail going forward, not backwards; therefore, an 'unprotected' spade rudder is 'protected'. ;-)