How do you troubleshoot electrolysis?

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Jul 20, 2005
2,422
Whitby 55 Kemah, Tx
I asked this question about a year ago with no answer so after spending all day today searching my boat for electrolysis, I thought I would share my experience for all to learn from. I thought since my engine and tranny is out of the boat, what better time to search for my electrical leak. I thought that with the prop shaft not touching anything but water, I can use that as a ground and search the boat with my multimeter for stray current. My multimeter is pretty sensitive (much like me) but also has a frayed wire (much like me :) ) so I was picking up all kinds of very small volt readings all over the place. It was hard to tell which were real current and which were my old multimeter not working correctly. I tried my newer meter and it didn't show anything at all. I was just about to give up when I somehow ended up taking the negative wire off one battery bank and then connect the multimeter ground to that and walla...I got bigtime results...12.9 volts. I was happy and sad at the same time. So...I start checking the bus bars (common place to run ground wires) and they were all positive. I started disconnecting wires from the bus bars and most were positive even after disconnected. Next thing you know...I got wires disconnected all over the place including the windless and I still have 12.9 volts on the mast, shrowds, anchor, through hulls...you name it. I was going nuts. I finally was able to trace a positive black wire to the refrig which was re-wired this spring by an electricion....you guess it...it was wired wrong. BUT still have a positive mast and all others. Now I go back to the begenning and I pay real close attention to the 2 month old $600 charge. Seems that with only one wire connected (a red wire), all other 3 prongs had a positive charge including the ground prong. Damn...there's problem #2 but I still have 12.9 volts going through the mast. Now I'm going nuts...got got all the wires disconnected that go up the mast, all the wires to the speed and depth transducers disconnected and I still can't find it. I got all the bus bars disconnected too so I go back to step 1 (trace the positive flow). I keep the multimeter on the mast and I just follow the positive flow off the battery disconnection it along the way at each connection. Hey...what do you know. I found it. It's the damn bilge pump. After disconnection the bilge pump the multimeter goes to zero. I check all through hulls and the shrowds and anchor and promp and everything is zero. I trace the bilge pump wire and see it goes a few places and just as I get about halfway, the sun goes down and it got dark and I have everything disconnected. So now that I type on my laptop with an hour left of battery time, I'm thankful that I have two more days to fix this problems and get it all back together before I have to go to work. I sure hope I remember how to put it all back together and I haven't lost any screws and nuts (from the boat, not my head) :) SO HOW DO YOU TROUBLESHOOT? 1) disconnect one battery bank totally (pos and neg). 2) disconnect the neg from the battery (on the battery bank to test first). 3) get a nice long wire with two clamps on each end with a regular multimeter and connect one end of that wire to the neg post on the battery and the other end to the neg wire on the multimeter. 4) go around and check for volts in the ground system on the boat, including the mast, through hulls, and shrowds. If you found a volt reading on any of this stuff, you have an electrolsys problem and you need to find it by narrowing down the system by disconnecting the ground system into little systems. Once you narrow it down, start disconnecting positive wires to find the problem. 5) Repeat steps 1-4 for the other battery bank.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Very good discription of methodical

trouble shooting. All to often folks disconnect every thing and the problem goes away but they have no idea where it went. One piece at a time and you can find the point of the problem.
 

RAD

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Jun 3, 2004
2,330
Catalina 30 Bay Shore, N.Y.
Franklin..

You need a job? I'm a master electrician and your trouble shooting skills impress me,I always put back the wires as I go along so it does not end up with an overwelming job to put back after I find the problem and a good book on the subject is by Charlie Wing. So sorry to hear about the death of your engine
 
Jul 20, 2005
2,422
Whitby 55 Kemah, Tx
Update....forget what I said...

There is a bug in my method. If you disconnect the negative on the battery from the ground system, then you also have to disconnect ANYTHING that suppose to burn electricity. Example: My panel has lights that turn on for each switch. The lights all ground to a ground bar. If there is power to the light because the switch is ON then it tries to burn the electricity in the bulb. Problem is, there is no negative source so the positive source just continues through the bulb on over to the ground and thus making the ground system positive. This makes it a bit more complicated then I had though last night. So...just thought I would update ya. I did fix the problem with the frig (bad switch). Now on to the rest.
 
Jul 20, 2005
2,422
Whitby 55 Kemah, Tx
Question: need answer....

Is it possible to have a switch that is a little defective and sending out a half of a volt when it is turned off and where it sends it to, like say a light, doesn't burn it because it's too low of a voltage so it just passes it on to the ground grid? If so then I have a lot of switches on the panel that need to be replaced.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Switches can grow whiskers on the contacts

but usually these burn off with a few operations. With a sensitive milliampmeter break into the line between the switch and the load and see if you have current flow. You can also have a salt film that will become conductive in damp weather. Wipe everything off with a cloth moistened with fresh water. I have had GFCI breaker that tripped when it rained but were fine when the weather was dry. In one case a buried cable had been damaged by a shovel but not severed so when the ground got wet it became conductive enough to trip the GFCI. When your switch is open you should read full battery voltage across the terminals. When it is closed (on) there should be no voltage reading across the terminals.
 
D

Dick Dixon

Reading your message hits home...

In April during my two year haulout I installed two new zincs on my propeller shaft and one on the keel. A few weeks ago while at the island, I checked the zincs on the stainless steel shaft and they are already badly eaten away. My boat has a galvanic isolator installed (by previous owner)but because I doubted it was working, I checked it by following Nigel Calder's instructions-even though things seemed to check out as he described, I've disconnected the isolator by wiring the ground together....if the isolator was bad and interrupting a proper ground with the shore, well now that should be solved...but only time will tell. Given my limited electrical knowledge and skill, I'm really frustrated with the whole matter....by the way, the bilge pump wiring is fine.
 

RAD

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Jun 3, 2004
2,330
Catalina 30 Bay Shore, N.Y.
Dick...

Your problem might be a neighbor boat or the marina, I had the same situation and the 2 mega powerboaters near me that leave ac running didn't help either, I don't leave ac hooked up if I don't need it and hang a zinc clipped to a bonded stantion overboard.
 
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