Good info given on Hexaratchets and ratchet blocks .... what makes these desirable is that the 'holding power' (not letting the line slip) is about 15:1 when the tail to the block is hand held, yet with slight release of hand tension you can easily 'snub' the line as it pays out. For every 1 pound of tension that you put into the tail of the rope in a hexaratchet, the 'snubbing action' will be 15 lbs.
On my sport boat, I use hexaratchets on a 6:1 mainsheet, 1:2 jibsheets, and 1:1 spinnaker halyard .... and need NO winches and can 'hand hold' these lines when under max. load. Its easy to slightly release some 'tail' strain to let the line 'snub' in the blocks --- NO burned hands. Additionally, the 8-faceted fluted sheaves on hexaratchets do not abrade the line/rope as happens when you continually 'snub' a line on a winch.
For my 'crab crusher' with ~650 sq. ft. genoa, I can easily hand tail the furler control line with simply hand pressure as it pays out and no matter how hard the wind is blowing - just by applying a bit of friction to the tail end. FWIW, my furler control line hexaratchet finally broke and I temporarily replaced with a free running block ... which caused me to use a damn winch to 'snub' the line when it pays out, and I still got rope burns. For hexaratchets you'll want to set these up so that the line has the maximum contact with the fluted sheave, for best friction control - usually the line set up at a '180' or 'half contact' with the sheave.
I deem Hexaratchets as 'hand savers'.
On my sport boat, I use hexaratchets on a 6:1 mainsheet, 1:2 jibsheets, and 1:1 spinnaker halyard .... and need NO winches and can 'hand hold' these lines when under max. load. Its easy to slightly release some 'tail' strain to let the line 'snub' in the blocks --- NO burned hands. Additionally, the 8-faceted fluted sheaves on hexaratchets do not abrade the line/rope as happens when you continually 'snub' a line on a winch.
For my 'crab crusher' with ~650 sq. ft. genoa, I can easily hand tail the furler control line with simply hand pressure as it pays out and no matter how hard the wind is blowing - just by applying a bit of friction to the tail end. FWIW, my furler control line hexaratchet finally broke and I temporarily replaced with a free running block ... which caused me to use a damn winch to 'snub' the line when it pays out, and I still got rope burns. For hexaratchets you'll want to set these up so that the line has the maximum contact with the fluted sheave, for best friction control - usually the line set up at a '180' or 'half contact' with the sheave.
I deem Hexaratchets as 'hand savers'.