How do you remove exterior teak without destroying

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Mike Koss

Does anybody know of a good way to take exterior teak parts off of an 81' C22 without destroying them? I want to take off, strip, and refinish with Cetol. Problem is, the bedding compound is really tenacious stuff. Any ideas? (Before I wreck anymore wood!)*o Thanks, Mike
 
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Paul Zetlmaier

DeBond 2000

www.debond2000.com is the web site. I found sample sizes on Ebay. Have not tried it yet it is heinously expensive but if it works it's a bargain
 
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Ted

Make sure you have all . . .

. . . the screws out of the wood first. For the hand rails and the top slider, they will be located along the cabin ceiling and pop-top ceiling. The wood along the companion way has hidden screws, you have to take off the interior pieces first to expose them. The wood step has the screws covered and you have to drill out the plug caps to get at them, then replace the caps afterwards. If the adhesive is really holding the wood down, you may be in for a long battle. The tough part will be getting the adhesive remover to migrate under the wood. whatever you do, make sure it is not damaging the fiberglass. some solvents can disolve the plastic resin. Have fun. Ted
 
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Mike Koss

Thanks Lauraine

Your idea is sounding better and better! Thanks much! Mike
 
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Harry

Mike, have you read the archives

about cetol? There is a ton of info. I'd read some of the posts before you apply it. I've used it in the past, and the first year (2 or 3 coats)or two it looks great! You are supposed to apply a new coat each year(after cleaning). By the third year, in my opinion, it starts to look like orange paint, and can be spotted from afar. On the plus side, it's easy to apply, looks good for awhile, and alot of folks love it. I at one time sang it's praises too, till it started to look too orange. If you do decide to use it, and in place vs taking the wood off, make sure it's well masked. The cetol stains are a bear to remove, if you can get them off at all.
 
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Kim_SC22

Use Schooner Varnish #96

My suggestion is to sand down the teak until you get to the fresh wood, then clean it with Acetone... then apply 5 - 6 coats of Schooner Varnish #96 by Interlux. If you then take care of the teak with polish's/cleaners, it should last you a nice long time before you have to deal with ugly looking wood again.
 
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Bill Ogilvie

Yet more advice

You don't need to sand teak, just use some teak cleaner and later some lightener. It's a lot of work to sand down to the pale wood and isn't necessary. Teak oil is an excellent finish and will protect the wood better. After about a year the Cetol finish will start looking like plastic and will stain the gelcoat as it flakes off. Then you'll have teak that's speckled with water marks and you'll have to sand again. Varnish looks great to, but you need to sand first. It also lasts longer than cetol. My 2 cents worth.
 
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