How do you maintain your bright work?
- Thread starter Brian D
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WoodPro
Rather than varnish, I'm a convert to WoodPro by West Marine. Much like Cetol, but without the orange tint. From bare (i.e., freshly stripped and cleaned) wood, I usually brush on 4-6 coats, and recoat as necessary (touchups after a year, more extensive recoating after two). If I owned a Hinckley instead of an Oday, I'd learn to love varnish. Pete s/v EmmieLou (Oday 322) Little Silver, NJ
Rather than varnish, I'm a convert to WoodPro by West Marine. Much like Cetol, but without the orange tint. From bare (i.e., freshly stripped and cleaned) wood, I usually brush on 4-6 coats, and recoat as necessary (touchups after a year, more extensive recoating after two). If I owned a Hinckley instead of an Oday, I'd learn to love varnish. Pete s/v EmmieLou (Oday 322) Little Silver, NJ
bright work
I remove and sand it about once a year and then let it "grey out" on my 1971 22' Venture., That way it always looks good. Novelman
I remove and sand it about once a year and then let it "grey out" on my 1971 22' Venture., That way it always looks good. Novelman
Honey teak for Gloss ....
Honey Teak when applied 'thick' will last approx 5-6 years. The stuff is 'expensive' but when you amortize the cost and amount of labor over 5-6 years, it comes out the chepaest and least labor intensive. Starts with a 'deep amber hue' but rapidly fades to look like a top quality oil-based varnish. Can be power buffed (slow speed with 3M Perfect-it) or hand-rubbed with rottenstone and water ..... so as to make a Hinckley blush with envy. www.signaturefinish.com Another similar product is "Smith & Co. - 5 year clear". Both are made by small manufacturers so you have to buy direct. For teak decks, etc. I use a mixture of: 1/3 Olympic deck stain (carmel), 1/3 Semco natural, 1/3 teak wonder,... only needs a quick thin coat yearly, once applied. Doesnt detract from the 'footing' on teak decks.
Honey Teak when applied 'thick' will last approx 5-6 years. The stuff is 'expensive' but when you amortize the cost and amount of labor over 5-6 years, it comes out the chepaest and least labor intensive. Starts with a 'deep amber hue' but rapidly fades to look like a top quality oil-based varnish. Can be power buffed (slow speed with 3M Perfect-it) or hand-rubbed with rottenstone and water ..... so as to make a Hinckley blush with envy. www.signaturefinish.com Another similar product is "Smith & Co. - 5 year clear". Both are made by small manufacturers so you have to buy direct. For teak decks, etc. I use a mixture of: 1/3 Olympic deck stain (carmel), 1/3 Semco natural, 1/3 teak wonder,... only needs a quick thin coat yearly, once applied. Doesnt detract from the 'footing' on teak decks.
Brightwork (emphasize "work")
I'm working on our brightwork now. Our Oday 26 is new to us. We've only had it since May. The teak was in pretty bad shape. In the last month, I've gone through my fair share of sandpaper and foam brushes. I use Z-Spar Captain's Varnish. I had new hatch boards made by D & R Marine. I've been sanding them with 220 grit, then wiping them down with brush cleaner and finally hitting them with the varnish on a foam brush. If I have the time, I will come back and add another coat within three hours. I wait until the previous coat is tacky but not wet. If done correctly, no sanding is necessary. I'm planning on applying 6 coats to most of the brightwork. It's 15 degrees right now in RI, so luckily we have a heated shop. Good luck.
I'm working on our brightwork now. Our Oday 26 is new to us. We've only had it since May. The teak was in pretty bad shape. In the last month, I've gone through my fair share of sandpaper and foam brushes. I use Z-Spar Captain's Varnish. I had new hatch boards made by D & R Marine. I've been sanding them with 220 grit, then wiping them down with brush cleaner and finally hitting them with the varnish on a foam brush. If I have the time, I will come back and add another coat within three hours. I wait until the previous coat is tacky but not wet. If done correctly, no sanding is necessary. I'm planning on applying 6 coats to most of the brightwork. It's 15 degrees right now in RI, so luckily we have a heated shop. Good luck.
MAS systems epoxies
I talked to JB last week at Strictly Sail in Chicago about this. He recommends taking the brightwork down to bare wood, wiping with acetone, then applying a coat of the thin epoxy, followed by a coat of the medium epoxy, and finally applying your varnish or other finish. He says it is possible to get 10 years out of this system, and if the varnish does begin to chip or wear through, you only have to sand down to epoxy, not bare wood. I am going to try it on any brightwork I do this year. -- Scott Fuller O34 Dawn Treader Milwaukee, WI
I talked to JB last week at Strictly Sail in Chicago about this. He recommends taking the brightwork down to bare wood, wiping with acetone, then applying a coat of the thin epoxy, followed by a coat of the medium epoxy, and finally applying your varnish or other finish. He says it is possible to get 10 years out of this system, and if the varnish does begin to chip or wear through, you only have to sand down to epoxy, not bare wood. I am going to try it on any brightwork I do this year. -- Scott Fuller O34 Dawn Treader Milwaukee, WI
Not an entirely a good thing to do.....
Unless the bright is totally encapsulated (all surfaces including that which touches the boat), vapor will continue to penetrate 'through' the wood and eventually form 'under' the epoxy encapsulation .... thus eventually lifting it. Such encapsulation was a method offered by many several years ago .... and without good results. Ultimately, the UV will penetrate through the coatings and destroy the wood cell surface layer ... and then even this will 'lift'. The 'schedule' back then was epoxy encapsulation, flow coat of epoxy, several coats of oil based varnish, let cure, then many coats of urethane varnish with LOTS of UV preventative, let fully cure, then overcoat everything with 2-part catalyzed polyurethane clear. .... and then chip/blast it away and start over every few years. Most 'fanatics' have 'migrated' to the 'modern' catalyzed 2 part acrylic/urethane co-polymers with ferrous oxide UV shields ... as they last longer and involve a *lot* less work.
Unless the bright is totally encapsulated (all surfaces including that which touches the boat), vapor will continue to penetrate 'through' the wood and eventually form 'under' the epoxy encapsulation .... thus eventually lifting it. Such encapsulation was a method offered by many several years ago .... and without good results. Ultimately, the UV will penetrate through the coatings and destroy the wood cell surface layer ... and then even this will 'lift'. The 'schedule' back then was epoxy encapsulation, flow coat of epoxy, several coats of oil based varnish, let cure, then many coats of urethane varnish with LOTS of UV preventative, let fully cure, then overcoat everything with 2-part catalyzed polyurethane clear. .... and then chip/blast it away and start over every few years. Most 'fanatics' have 'migrated' to the 'modern' catalyzed 2 part acrylic/urethane co-polymers with ferrous oxide UV shields ... as they last longer and involve a *lot* less work.
Anyone ever use TeaQua?
I've heard some very good things about this teak oil. Although I don't have any exterior wood on this boat, it is for sale, and there is no telling if the new to us boat we find will have teak and if so how much..
I've heard some very good things about this teak oil. Although I don't have any exterior wood on this boat, it is for sale, and there is no telling if the new to us boat we find will have teak and if so how much..
I agree with RichH
I used the West System 207 "clear" hardener on seval teak lazarette covers that had been sanded down to bare wood before varnishing. That was 3 years ago and no, I did not entirely ecapsulate each piece. After one season small portions of yellow spots (epoxy separating from the wood surface) occurred. Three years later these pieces need some work as there are spots with bare (faded) teak showing through the chipped and yellowed finish. The lazarette covers lasted the best as they were basically plywood but the aft hatch was solid teak has deteriorated the most. What worries me most is how much extra sanding and nasty dust I may have to create to re-prep this surface for finishing. The minor sanding and oiling and acetone involved with renewing old varnish is starting to look pretty good to me right now. That is how I handle the toe rails and the companionway hatch boards and they look beautiful with only a few coats of varnishing (fortunately, I did not cover these with epoxy too). My $.02.
I used the West System 207 "clear" hardener on seval teak lazarette covers that had been sanded down to bare wood before varnishing. That was 3 years ago and no, I did not entirely ecapsulate each piece. After one season small portions of yellow spots (epoxy separating from the wood surface) occurred. Three years later these pieces need some work as there are spots with bare (faded) teak showing through the chipped and yellowed finish. The lazarette covers lasted the best as they were basically plywood but the aft hatch was solid teak has deteriorated the most. What worries me most is how much extra sanding and nasty dust I may have to create to re-prep this surface for finishing. The minor sanding and oiling and acetone involved with renewing old varnish is starting to look pretty good to me right now. That is how I handle the toe rails and the companionway hatch boards and they look beautiful with only a few coats of varnishing (fortunately, I did not cover these with epoxy too). My $.02.
There's a new Cetol that's not orange
Folks around here like it because you can put on a coat maybe twice or three time a year with a rag and avoid sanding. The choice is sand every few years and have the varnish look, or be lazy (my choice) and have the oil look. I appreciate the varnish look when somebody else does the work!
Folks around here like it because you can put on a coat maybe twice or three time a year with a rag and avoid sanding. The choice is sand every few years and have the varnish look, or be lazy (my choice) and have the oil look. I appreciate the varnish look when somebody else does the work!
Cetol...
I know it might be blasphemous to say it, but I use Cetol on just about everything, inside or out, on my boat. I love it. Easy to use. Long lasting. Easy to recoat. And, to me, it looks decent. On my H28.5, it is hard to use up a full quart of Cetol before the polymers lock up. As such, I use Cetol on my teak flag staff, handrails, companionway boards. I have also used it inside on my folding saloon table and chart rack. And I still have lots left over. To try to preserve it, I pour just enough for each job into a clean plastic cup and then close the lid on the can firmly. When I want to store the leftovers, I also pour the can into a clean glass jar and use a plastic bag as a washer under the lid. Sometimes this works and the Cetol lasts a long time. A great product. I think the "non-orange" stuff is Cetol Marine Light. See link.
I know it might be blasphemous to say it, but I use Cetol on just about everything, inside or out, on my boat. I love it. Easy to use. Long lasting. Easy to recoat. And, to me, it looks decent. On my H28.5, it is hard to use up a full quart of Cetol before the polymers lock up. As such, I use Cetol on my teak flag staff, handrails, companionway boards. I have also used it inside on my folding saloon table and chart rack. And I still have lots left over. To try to preserve it, I pour just enough for each job into a clean plastic cup and then close the lid on the can firmly. When I want to store the leftovers, I also pour the can into a clean glass jar and use a plastic bag as a washer under the lid. Sometimes this works and the Cetol lasts a long time. A great product. I think the "non-orange" stuff is Cetol Marine Light. See link.
Good info...
The reason I ask is obviously simple. I need to work the wood on my boat. I only have three exposed sections; companion way frame, companion way hatch boards, and the coach roof sliding hatch. Oh... and I forgot the teak ensign staff. However, one of the boats I was looking at, a Pacific Seacraft Mariah, has all wood decks and cockpit seating. The coach roof is painted. I just wondering how to maintain the decks if I get the boat. The broker said just use saltwater and a mild detergent. Guess that would keep the decks that salty looking gray color.
The reason I ask is obviously simple. I need to work the wood on my boat. I only have three exposed sections; companion way frame, companion way hatch boards, and the coach roof sliding hatch. Oh... and I forgot the teak ensign staff. However, one of the boats I was looking at, a Pacific Seacraft Mariah, has all wood decks and cockpit seating. The coach roof is painted. I just wondering how to maintain the decks if I get the boat. The broker said just use saltwater and a mild detergent. Guess that would keep the decks that salty looking gray color.
Teak Guard
Try a product called Teak Guard (just google it). It's a water based product so it won't stain your fiberglass should you get any on it. That also means you don't have to tape around the teak before hand. I keep a damp wrag handy and wipe up any place I get sloppy right away. It leaves a beautiful gold finish, isn't slippery and lasts the entire season. I did mine in the Spring and it's just starting to flake and fade now. Come Spring all I have to do is scrub the teak with soap and water, allow it to dry and apply 3 or 4 coats with a foam brush. The nice part is if you don't like it it'll wear off without leaving any hard to remove residue. Just scrub off the remainder. Just don't allow the product to freeze or it'll gel up and you'll have to toss it.
Try a product called Teak Guard (just google it). It's a water based product so it won't stain your fiberglass should you get any on it. That also means you don't have to tape around the teak before hand. I keep a damp wrag handy and wipe up any place I get sloppy right away. It leaves a beautiful gold finish, isn't slippery and lasts the entire season. I did mine in the Spring and it's just starting to flake and fade now. Come Spring all I have to do is scrub the teak with soap and water, allow it to dry and apply 3 or 4 coats with a foam brush. The nice part is if you don't like it it'll wear off without leaving any hard to remove residue. Just scrub off the remainder. Just don't allow the product to freeze or it'll gel up and you'll have to toss it.
Teak Guard is great
I agree with Mike, Teak Guard is great stuff. I used it last year for the first time and I will continue to use it in the future. It is easy to use and looks great. It is important to use their teak cleaner before you apply the finish product. You can check it out on their web site. I spoke to the owner of the company, and he said that their main business was in the outdoor teak funiture trade. I have not heard from anyone who has used it, that does not like it. Easy, fast drying, and no problem refinishing. That all sounded great to me. Dale
I agree with Mike, Teak Guard is great stuff. I used it last year for the first time and I will continue to use it in the future. It is easy to use and looks great. It is important to use their teak cleaner before you apply the finish product. You can check it out on their web site. I spoke to the owner of the company, and he said that their main business was in the outdoor teak funiture trade. I have not heard from anyone who has used it, that does not like it. Easy, fast drying, and no problem refinishing. That all sounded great to me. Dale
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