One of the issues I want to fix is to prevent the swing keel from banging side to side when it's down. Have any of you fixed this before?
how do you keep the keel from banging
- Thread starter Hollyweirdos
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When I was taking my keel out, I noticed a third bolt, besides the pivot and lock bolt. It had two chunks of hard rubber on the inside of the trunk that the keel would go between when locked in. Guessing that's what it was for. Wonder if it was effective.
The rubber piece is the "stop" so if you let the keel down too far (or the cable breaks)it won't come crashing through the trunk. Alot of the clunking is actuallly from the pivot hole hole being worn, which lets the keel "twist" around. My 25's keel was slapping around alot last season. I am putting a bushing in the pivot hole, and am going to put some large (maybe 4 or 5") washers, made of plastic or fiberglass, on each side of the pivot bolt and make the top 3 or 4 inches of the keel fit snuggly in the trunk when in the down position. Macgregor designed the keel to "lay" on the trunk when heeling, so there wouln't be too much twisting motion on the pivot bolt. Look at it like an 8 foot lever, and a heavy one at that.
According to bob at macgregor sailboats, the pivot bolt is made with plenty of clearance, the keel is designed to be loose when up , but tightens as it is lowered into place . The clunking sound you hear maybe coming from the rudder.
I get the same clunking sound when I am anchoring and my keel is not locked down. I am trying to figure out how to take out the keel and inspect it. It looks like it is in pretty good condition.
I don't get knocking by locking in the keel with three inches washers on the bolt, the applying some tension to the keel cable. It's quiet on my boat. The wiring in the mast...that's something else.
A look at Cabrillo last weekend...for the northern/ inland folks:
Jeff
A look at Cabrillo last weekend...for the northern/ inland folks:
Jeff
Kestle, I saw a mod that Sumner did ware he put pieces of foam a few feet apart on the wires in the mast. That stopped the noise.
Its also one of the first things I'm going to do this spring on my 26D. I might use pool noodles though.
Its also one of the first things I'm going to do this spring on my 26D. I might use pool noodles though.
Be careful. sometimes loose is good.
I'm afraid that's a good way to bust your keel. MacGregor made it that way.(loose) When heeled over, the stress is transferred to the hull instead of the small area on the keel where it pivots. Iv'e heard of people cracking their keel by taking the "slop" out.
I'm afraid that's a good way to bust your keel. MacGregor made it that way.(loose) When heeled over, the stress is transferred to the hull instead of the small area on the keel where it pivots. Iv'e heard of people cracking their keel by taking the "slop" out.
Jeff: Go get yourself one of those 3" x 4' x 8' pink foam boards at Home Depot and cut it into long strips that are just a tad narrower than the inner dimension of your mast. Place the strips end-to-end and duct tape the ends together. Then slip it up inside your mast. The duct tape is there just in case you ever want to pull it all back out again. In addition to stopping the wire slap inside your mast, it will also provide buoyancy in your mast if you ever suffer a really hard knock down. I did this and my mast is quite now. I've also read on another list serve where someone wrapped their foam in aluminum foil first. Their claim is that it made for a better radar target. I don't have any first hand knowledge/data to support that notion but thought I'd toss it on the pile and see what happens.
So how much play should there be? As I am rebuilding my keel I am strongly considering not re-fiberglassing and just treating it for the rust and then epoxy painting it, but I need to make sure there isn't to much play since the extra width of the fiberglass isn't there and want to just weld on extra steel. Right now, just bare metal would be 1/2" of play, which I am guessing is to much when heeling.
For the wire slap
inside the mast, I used wire ties every 3 feet or so. I used the large ones, about 6 inches long and used 3 of them so they would stick against the inside of the mast and prevent movement. worked great!! Picture a Christmas tree swirls the way they stick out every layer, and the center trunk is the wire.
inside the mast, I used wire ties every 3 feet or so. I used the large ones, about 6 inches long and used 3 of them so they would stick against the inside of the mast and prevent movement. worked great!! Picture a Christmas tree swirls the way they stick out every layer, and the center trunk is the wire.
My keel is not the problem, it was the tiller.
I tied the tiller to the pushpit with a small line up and out of the way.
It was not tied tight and loosened over night, just a little.
It banged aginst the upright and made hardly any sound in the cockpit but sounded like a drum inside.
I now use a bungee cord and a bit of foam pipe insulation on the tiller and now sleep like a baby.
I also use the zip ties in the mast and know how to secure the halyards to keep them from banging.
I tied the tiller to the pushpit with a small line up and out of the way.
It was not tied tight and loosened over night, just a little.
It banged aginst the upright and made hardly any sound in the cockpit but sounded like a drum inside.
I now use a bungee cord and a bit of foam pipe insulation on the tiller and now sleep like a baby.
I also use the zip ties in the mast and know how to secure the halyards to keep them from banging.
I too had the bang - bang, whether from just being hove-to or when swapping tack's.
When I pulled the keel, I found the prob. Big hole, small bolt, sloppy fits. Remedy - I built new, wider keel with decent profile; installed st. stl. plates on inside of trunk - "J" shape, one per side. Pivot for new keel is 2" diameter 'hub' clamped between plates in trunk . Keel has 2-1/32" bore for hub and st. stl. washers on each side to minimize side to side movement. All slathered with Copperslip grease for lube. Result - noiseless free swinging and the keel can be removed in 5 mins. No need to go below under the sink and bust your head/knuckles/some of the Commandments. I do have up/down lines installed as insurance. Anyone in Great Lakes likely knows to coat everything with anti-fouling paint - darn those zebra mussels!!
When I pulled the keel, I found the prob. Big hole, small bolt, sloppy fits. Remedy - I built new, wider keel with decent profile; installed st. stl. plates on inside of trunk - "J" shape, one per side. Pivot for new keel is 2" diameter 'hub' clamped between plates in trunk . Keel has 2-1/32" bore for hub and st. stl. washers on each side to minimize side to side movement. All slathered with Copperslip grease for lube. Result - noiseless free swinging and the keel can be removed in 5 mins
. No need to go below under the sink and bust your head/knuckles/some of the Commandments. I do have up/down lines installed as insurance. Anyone in Great Lakes likely knows to coat everything with anti-fouling paint - darn those zebra mussels!!
Maybe I need that plate or something similar in my trunk. I replaced the bolt with a new one from Bluewater and it is oversize. I drilled the cb out to fit so the bolt is not loose in the hole. It may be sliding on the bolt?
Mate 88 that sounds like the bomb setup.
Mate 88 that sounds like the bomb setup.
Your keel weighs what, about 50 pounds?
I too had the bang - bang, whether from just being hove-to or when swapping tack's.
When I pulled the keel, I found the prob. Big hole, small bolt, sloppy fits. Remedy - I built new, wider keel with decent profile; installed st. stl. plates on inside of trunk - "J" shape, one per side. Pivot for new keel is 2" diameter 'hub' clamped between plates in trunk . Keel has 2-1/32" bore for hub and st. stl. washers on each side to minimize side to side movement. All slathered with Copperslip grease for lube. Result - noiseless free swinging and the keel can be removed in 5 mins
I too had the bang - bang, whether from just being hove-to or when swapping tack's.
When I pulled the keel, I found the prob. Big hole, small bolt, sloppy fits. Remedy - I built new, wider keel with decent profile; installed st. stl. plates on inside of trunk - "J" shape, one per side. Pivot for new keel is 2" diameter 'hub' clamped between plates in trunk . Keel has 2-1/32" bore for hub and st. stl. washers on each side to minimize side to side movement. All slathered with Copperslip grease for lube. Result - noiseless free swinging and the keel can be removed in 5 mins
maybe he has 2 boats? an 1988 macgregor would be a D and no piviot holes.
-but we are talking about a heavy weighted keel on a non waterballast boat.
hey mate can you clarify please?
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