on my 88 h40 to refinish them. How are they mounted? Screw or bolt ? can they be accessed from below ?
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Plugs
Typically a wood screw holds down the rail. It's disguised by a small wooden plug that was tapped into the screwhole. Drill it out and buy replacement plugs to reattach the rail.
Typically a wood screw holds down the rail. It's disguised by a small wooden plug that was tapped into the screwhole. Drill it out and buy replacement plugs to reattach the rail.
teak plugs
One technique I have read about and tried is chucking a screw into a driver and running it down the centre of the plug. When the screw bottoms out it lifts the plug. This sometimes works but often rips up the wood around the plug. Better is a forstener bit, same size as the plug. Accurate drilling will leave the hole perfect and expose the mounting screw. If you have a lot of plugs to do, I recommend buying a plug cutter and making your own from teak. Of course you have to have access to a drill press!
One technique I have read about and tried is chucking a screw into a driver and running it down the centre of the plug. When the screw bottoms out it lifts the plug. This sometimes works but often rips up the wood around the plug. Better is a forstener bit, same size as the plug. Accurate drilling will leave the hole perfect and expose the mounting screw. If you have a lot of plugs to do, I recommend buying a plug cutter and making your own from teak. Of course you have to have access to a drill press!
I'll bet ya Bob, that your handrails are through-bolted.
They are on mine. Well, now they're stainless. But the old teak rails were through-bolted too. You can tell if you have a removable headliner. Loosen a corner of it and have a peak for the nuts on the ends of the bolts. Now for the sad part. Hunter installed the bolts too long for the space available because the bolts would have been different lengths. Their solutions was to just cut the ends off after they were tightened. That ruins the treads and makes them nearly impossible to remove. I wish you well,,,,,,
They are on mine. Well, now they're stainless. But the old teak rails were through-bolted too. You can tell if you have a removable headliner. Loosen a corner of it and have a peak for the nuts on the ends of the bolts. Now for the sad part. Hunter installed the bolts too long for the space available because the bolts would have been different lengths. Their solutions was to just cut the ends off after they were tightened. That ruins the treads and makes them nearly impossible to remove. I wish you well,,,,,,
Hi Bob, I've seen teak plugs in assorted sizes...
at the local marine store. I would imagine you can order them from Defender. I've had good luck removing plugs by drilling a hole a bit smaller than the plug then cleaning out the rest with a small knife. Terry
at the local marine store. I would imagine you can order them from Defender. I've had good luck removing plugs by drilling a hole a bit smaller than the plug then cleaning out the rest with a small knife. Terry
Really Fred, bolted?
I am very surprised that Hunter bolted the teak handrails. And the nuts are under the headliner? I have never seen anything but screws. But I hope Bob will report back after he has removed one bung and taken out that first bolt/screw. I reinstalled mine a little differently. Because it is so much easier to varnish at home in the winter I decided to make them easier to remove, much easier. I put the new bungs in at home before varnishing. Then after using a countersink I reinstalled with the screws heads on top. Now I can use my power screwdriver and take them home every winter in about ten minutes. The exposed stainless oval-headed screw heads are not offensive to look at. Well at least not to me. Another thing that I did years ago is epoxy 3/4" x 3" oak dowels at all screw hole locations. This makes for much stronger handrails and no chance of leaks into the cabin top core.
I am very surprised that Hunter bolted the teak handrails. And the nuts are under the headliner? I have never seen anything but screws. But I hope Bob will report back after he has removed one bung and taken out that first bolt/screw. I reinstalled mine a little differently. Because it is so much easier to varnish at home in the winter I decided to make them easier to remove, much easier. I put the new bungs in at home before varnishing. Then after using a countersink I reinstalled with the screws heads on top. Now I can use my power screwdriver and take them home every winter in about ten minutes. The exposed stainless oval-headed screw heads are not offensive to look at. Well at least not to me. Another thing that I did years ago is epoxy 3/4" x 3" oak dowels at all screw hole locations. This makes for much stronger handrails and no chance of leaks into the cabin top core.
And if you guys think through bolting is weird
On my rails (still have 'em in the barn) Hunter was so cheap that instead of cutting out a set in the normal way,(one inside of another so as to not lose wood) they made them out on one long piece and screwed the bottom standoffs to it. Yep, silicone bronze screws. Great! that meant the standoffs were never tight after a few years. And it also meant the wood could never properly hold varnish. Especially in wet northwest type climates. I tried. I really tried! The evidence is in the barn. Wanna picture?
On my rails (still have 'em in the barn) Hunter was so cheap that instead of cutting out a set in the normal way,(one inside of another so as to not lose wood) they made them out on one long piece and screwed the bottom standoffs to it. Yep, silicone bronze screws. Great! that meant the standoffs were never tight after a few years. And it also meant the wood could never properly hold varnish. Especially in wet northwest type climates. I tried. I really tried! The evidence is in the barn. Wanna picture?
Bob and Fred. . .
Bob, just try one screw/bolt to see what you are up against. If you find it is too much trouble then do what most others do, varnish in place. It is very tedious but you can mask around the rails. Overlap the tape on the rail standoffs and then use a very sharp blade to trim the tape off of the wood. Fred, did you buy the boat new so that you know those rails and bolts are original from the factory? I know that you are very experienced but that is something I have never seen nor heard about.
Bob, just try one screw/bolt to see what you are up against. If you find it is too much trouble then do what most others do, varnish in place. It is very tedious but you can mask around the rails. Overlap the tape on the rail standoffs and then use a very sharp blade to trim the tape off of the wood. Fred, did you buy the boat new so that you know those rails and bolts are original from the factory? I know that you are very experienced but that is something I have never seen nor heard about.
They'ee screwed in with wood screws...
I just removed the plugs and unscrewed them- came off easily. Have them hoem now and will hit them with Bristol warnish. I dont like cetol... did that to my seats and they scuffed too easily! Thanks All for your comments
I just removed the plugs and unscrewed them- came off easily. Have them hoem now and will hit them with Bristol warnish. I dont like cetol... did that to my seats and they scuffed too easily! Thanks All for your comments
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