How Do I Remove A Hatch.

[Mike Holibar]

Hi all,
set into the deck over the heads I have a Lewmar opening hatch which comprises an acrylic lid hinged to an aluminium frame. The frame has a wide flange which is mated to a fibreglass opening in the deck, held with screws, and bonded with some kind of construction adhesive. There is a leak between the mating surfaces so the whole assembly has to be removed and reseated. Getting the screws out won't be too much of a problem but the adhesive is incredibly strong and there is virtually no gap between the surfaces into which a knife might be inserted to cut it. I had thought of using the Multimaster to cut the bond but this will mark both the aluminium and glass flanges. Perhaps you guys know of a better way. Your suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks and kind regards,

 

[Tim R.]

Try and start to break the seal with a razor blade. Once you cut out enough insert a wood wedge. This will put some pressure on the remaining flange that will allow you to more easily cut away the rest with the razor. This method worked for me removing portlights that were bedded with 5200.

 

[BenDi]

I used a length of safety/security wire pushed thru the bedding compound and "sawed" around the hatch. I also removed the hatch cover to have better access to the work space.

 

[Allan Frey]

I recently replaced three Lewmar hatches.

Inside, I cut the caulk with a metal hooked knife that is used for cutting caulk.

Outside, I cut the caulk with a very FLEXIBLE putty knife using a hammer to drive it around the frame.

Then on the outside, use a small pry bar to lift the frame an eighth of an inch, near two adjacent corners, and hammer in wooden wedges. Then, the most important part, take a 30 minute coffee break. Be patient and let the steady pressure from the wedges relax the seal and allow you to lift the frame more so you can put thicker wedges in. Come back in 15 minutes and it should easily break free.

Scrape out the old caulk and get the residual off with a single edge razor blade in a holder.

I bedded the new hatches with Dow 795 (from McMaster-Carr). This likes temperatures above 50 F during its 3 week cure.

Allan

 

[Dave Groshong]

If the adhesive is 5200 or other polyurethane, this product was designed to soften and dissolve it:

http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detail.htm?group=1190

 

[Mike G.]

Sharpen a 6" putty or wallboard spatula

I have the same issue and plan on trying this tomorrow. Similar to Tim's suggestion but the razor doesn't give enough leverage. The yard manager at the marina told me that they sharpen a 6" putty or wallboard spatula on a grinding wheel to a razor thin edge. He said it gives them more leverage to work the blade under the flange.

 

[sailingseadragon]

Mike,

The link below is a link to lessons learned (w/pictures) while rebedding the hatches on Sea Dragon.

http://www.sailingseadragon.com/hatches.htm

Garner

 

[Mike Holibar]

Thanks Guys,
I am very glad I asked the question. I think all of your suggestions were better than my idea. That Bomar tape looks a really good idea.

Thanks again,

 

[Ross]

When I need to put my back into a scraper blade, I like a 4 inch replaceable blade wall paper scraper. They come with a 10 inch handle and replaceable blades. Once you have tried one you will always keep one in your kit.