how do I pull a stubborn prop?
- Thread starter richk
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Use a puller
Do NOT bang on it with a mallet (or anything else.) Those loads will get transferred directly to the output bearings and seals of the transmission, not a good thing I assure you.
Good luck.
Do NOT bang on it with a mallet (or anything else.) Those loads will get transferred directly to the output bearings and seals of the transmission, not a good thing I assure you.
Good luck.
Consider yourself lucky! Your prop and shaft have a very well matched taper, and the taper is holding it on instead of the prop nut. Unfortunately, you'll need to get the right tools for the job.
Rich
You will need a prop puller and a cutlass bearing puller to accomplish your project. This job can be done without pulling the shaft if you have both of these tools. The entire thing can be done in about an hour. However if you don't have a cutlass bearing puller you will have to remove the shaft and possibly the rudder to do the job.
You will need a prop puller and a cutlass bearing puller to accomplish your project. This job can be done without pulling the shaft if you have both of these tools. The entire thing can be done in about an hour. However if you don't have a cutlass bearing puller you will have to remove the shaft and possibly the rudder to do the job.
My technique is to install a prop puller after a couple days of liberal dousing with penetrating oil. I like PB Blaster. Then with a substantial load applied with the puller, I take a wooden block and a 1# hammer and apply shock loads to the side of the prop. This had never failed me, and I have observed no damage to any of the running gear.
More detail
I was pressed for time with my answer above, so let me explain more.
Loosen both the locking nut and the main nut on the prop shaft. Back them off and re-lock them at the end of the shaft so that the shaft end is recessed in the outer nut. This will protect the threads of the shaft. Install the prop puller and tighten it to pre-load the prop. Apply plenty of PB Blaster and give it some time to work.
Using a piece of hardwood like oak or maple and a 1-2 pound hammer, apply a blow to the HUB of the prop (not the blades) perpendicular to the shaft. Rotate the shaft and hit around the entire prop.
My experience is that with adequate pre-load on the prop puller and lots of penetrating fluid, the prop will pop of with less than 10 blows. You really have to apply lots of pressure with the prop puller. I would not hit on the end of the shaft toward the engine unless the coupling flange is disconnected. This would be a last resort. Usually perpendicular blows will loosen the prop.
When it does come loose, be careful because the prop puller can fall off and fall on your feet.
Do not use softwood with the hammer, it will absorb too much of the energy and render your effort useless. Ditto for a rubber mallot.
I was pressed for time with my answer above, so let me explain more.
Loosen both the locking nut and the main nut on the prop shaft. Back them off and re-lock them at the end of the shaft so that the shaft end is recessed in the outer nut. This will protect the threads of the shaft. Install the prop puller and tighten it to pre-load the prop. Apply plenty of PB Blaster and give it some time to work.
Using a piece of hardwood like oak or maple and a 1-2 pound hammer, apply a blow to the HUB of the prop (not the blades) perpendicular to the shaft. Rotate the shaft and hit around the entire prop.
My experience is that with adequate pre-load on the prop puller and lots of penetrating fluid, the prop will pop of with less than 10 blows. You really have to apply lots of pressure with the prop puller. I would not hit on the end of the shaft toward the engine unless the coupling flange is disconnected. This would be a last resort. Usually perpendicular blows will loosen the prop.
When it does come loose, be careful because the prop puller can fall off and fall on your feet.
Do not use softwood with the hammer, it will absorb too much of the energy and render your effort useless. Ditto for a rubber mallot.
The best metal to metal loosener by far is KROIL. Have been using it for years.
It is available at this link http://www.kanolabs.com/google/.
There is a special price for the googler's. You usually have to buy it by the gallon at $65.00 plus.
Great stuff. Give the prop and tapered shaft a good soak.
RD
It is available at this link http://www.kanolabs.com/google/.
There is a special price for the googler's. You usually have to buy it by the gallon at $65.00 plus.
Great stuff. Give the prop and tapered shaft a good soak.
RD
If hammer blows are required
it would be far better to use two brass mallets of equal weight, one in each hand and apply from opposite sides at the same time. This procedure directs all the energy at the center of the hub with no unbalanced force on the prop shaft or strut. It is a time tested procedure for shocking mating surfaces apart.
it would be far better to use two brass mallets of equal weight, one in each hand and apply from opposite sides at the same time. This procedure directs all the energy at the center of the hub with no unbalanced force on the prop shaft or strut. It is a time tested procedure for shocking mating surfaces apart.
It seems to me, keep in mind I have never removed a prop, but if the prop is made of brass or bronze and the shaft is steel, heating the prop would cause it to loosen. Or am I missing something. I have removed and replaced steel bearing races from axels this way.
Frank
Frank
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