How can I restore brightwork?

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Jan 9, 2011
1
Catalina 34 Olympia, WA
I would very much like to restore the wood (brightwork) on our older Catalina 34 sailboat. I believe the wood is teak. If it is, can I use something like Bristol Marine?
 

zeehag

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Mar 26, 2009
3,198
1976 formosa 41 yankee clipper santa barbara. ca.(not there)
serious restoration of teakis done traditionally with sea water and teak oil. after the wood is restored, do as ye wish with it-- but using chemicals and harsh stuf fon it not only makes the wood go away sooner than not, but the chemicals are detrimental to gelcoat. have fun. everyone will recommend chemicals and sanding. i dont use that as is unnecessary in expense as well as is hard on the wood.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,054
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Many, many ways to do so, but basically boils down to what you like with the choices being:

1. Get rid of whatever is on the wood now, then: Do Nothing
2. Use teak oil, regularly
3. Use varnish
4. Use cetol or other types of replacements for varnish.

If you want to consider non-varnish choices, just google or search on "cetol" or "varnish" and you'll have enough to read until next Christmas!:):):)

I invite you join our C34IA and our message board: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?board=11.0
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
If you plan on keeping it up on a regular basis, Bristol may be the product for you. If you let it go it can be very difficult to remove and start over.

My preference is smooth grey'd teak (matches my hair). If you want an easy to maintain finish I would suggest that you look at Cetol products. There is a review of several products in the Jan 2011 issue of Practical Sailor.

Regardless of what you decide on you may also want to consider sunbrella covers for all of your wood where applicable. You can purchase some of these covers from this site.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
If you want good looking brightwork without the yearly hassles and 'repairs', I suggest THICKLY applied Bristol Finish or Honey Teak .... expensive, looks like real varnish, lasts a loooong time ... just need quick/easy 'maintenance coats'.

BTW - my Honey Teak jobs usually last 10 years before 'redo'. HT is a urethane/acrylic copolymer that can be flat sanded and power-BUFFED:


You can do the same with Bristol.
www.signaturefinish.com
 
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