does anyone know if a center board line can be replaced while the boat is in the water - possibly from inside the cabin without spending a fortune on renting a dry dock?
how can I replace a center board line on an Oday 222
- Thread starter DaveSte
- Start date
You're going to need to swim on the centerboard. Most people connect the shackle to the board, cut off the old shackle on the old line, connect the end of new to old, and then can pull up the new through the cockpit. Holding your breath, that's a minimum of 3 dives. Having dived for weeds on the pendant like 3 times a season, it would take me more than 3 free dives. If you have SCUBA, it's a piece of cake.
so, not sure what you mean to CUT OFF the old shackle - with what? A saw? Am I on the right page? Do you have any pictures of what need to be cut off? How do you connect the old line to the new while under water? I can go under for a minute but not sure what I'm facing when I get there.
The replacement pendant sold by www.drmarine.com for O'day 192/222 is a narrow, long shackle, might even have been a Wichard, spliced to the shackle with a tight eye on 5/16" double braid polyester line. The shackle seems really long, until you try to put it on the centerboard hole, then you realize that it's just about the right length. It is also narrow so that you don't have problems with a wrong sized shackle binding against the bottom of the centerboard slot when you bring up the board.
So, if you have this config on the boat, you will have to cut the pendant line just above the end of the eye splice, then attach the unspliced end of the new line, so that you can pull the new line up through the pendant tube using the old line as a messenger.
Meanwhile, you'd unshackle the old one, and shackle on the new one from under the boat. It will be about 3 feet under water, maybe 4, because the hole is about 1/3 of the way up the centerboard.
When I did mine, I had the boat on a lift at a friend's, so I only held my breath figuratively. But hold it I did, because I had taped the 2 lines together with masking tape, so I was concerned that the lines didn't separate as I pulled them through. They didn't, the operation was very easy. But if you're doing it in the water, you will need a more physical way to connect the lines than tape, on account of everything being, well, wet.
So, if you have this config on the boat, you will have to cut the pendant line just above the end of the eye splice, then attach the unspliced end of the new line, so that you can pull the new line up through the pendant tube using the old line as a messenger.
Meanwhile, you'd unshackle the old one, and shackle on the new one from under the boat. It will be about 3 feet under water, maybe 4, because the hole is about 1/3 of the way up the centerboard.
When I did mine, I had the boat on a lift at a friend's, so I only held my breath figuratively. But hold it I did, because I had taped the 2 lines together with masking tape, so I was concerned that the lines didn't separate as I pulled them through. They didn't, the operation was very easy. But if you're doing it in the water, you will need a more physical way to connect the lines than tape, on account of everything being, well, wet.
You asked for a picture.
I have a '78 O'Day 25 and I have been working on my centerboard.
I have attached a picture of my centerboard when I dry fitted the shackle from D&R.
There is a cotter pin that needs to be removed, then you remove the old shackle and replace with the new.
I tried to have a diver replace it last year but it ended up getting stuck in the pendant tube. This was the "cheap" way to go about it, it just didn't work out well in my case. Other guys have had great success with this. Our lake is a muddy lake! You just can't see!
I am not going bore you with the details on what a pain it is to get to this when the boat is on a trailer!
My solution was to purchase a "gohoist" to lift my boat off the trailer and properly block it and secure it with boat stands.
I have been rehabbing the centerboard with new layer gel coat and glassing the areas that have impact damage.
Best of Luck! I know this can be a pain and I like you am always looking for more self sufficient (cheap) ways to get the job done -
I have a '78 O'Day 25 and I have been working on my centerboard.
I have attached a picture of my centerboard when I dry fitted the shackle from D&R.
There is a cotter pin that needs to be removed, then you remove the old shackle and replace with the new.
I tried to have a diver replace it last year but it ended up getting stuck in the pendant tube. This was the "cheap" way to go about it, it just didn't work out well in my case. Other guys have had great success with this. Our lake is a muddy lake! You just can't see!
I am not going bore you with the details on what a pain it is to get to this when the boat is on a trailer!
My solution was to purchase a "gohoist" to lift my boat off the trailer and properly block it and secure it with boat stands.
I have been rehabbing the centerboard with new layer gel coat and glassing the areas that have impact damage.
Best of Luck! I know this can be a pain and I like you am always looking for more self sufficient (cheap) ways to get the job done -
Attachments
Just a few notes to keep in mind, on the bigger O'days (than my 192) there is often times a sheave installed up inside the centerboard trunk. Some were not put in, and in that case the pendant will get worn through VERY quickly.
Also, there have been reports of pulling the board all the way up, but then the thickness of the splice bury gets stuck in the pendant tube. Not sure if I remember these two things are related, or if that sticking part is from Precision boats. Could do some searches here to find relevant posts and which models the sheave issue applied to.