how big a no-no?

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B

bill

My plan was to replace the sanitation hoses. After tracing the hose from the toilet to the holding tank (my main order problem i think), it became apparent that to get it all out, I'll have to drain and remove the water heater (pretty easy) and drain and remove the fuel tank (a nightmare)and remove some bulkhead. The hose leaves the head, goes up sandwiched between 2 bulkheads (not constructed for removal) to the "y" valve on top of the fuel tank. From there it goes back down through the same bulkheads, out through a hole in the aft bulkhead and heads aft until it finally worms its way through molded in shafts to the holding tank. Since I really don't want to tear out bulkheads, fuel tank and water heater, I'm thinking of cutting the hose where it becomes accessible and leaving the portions between the bulkheads. This will require a splice, using a male connector, from the new hose to the old one. Will this splice serve to trap too much stuff and make things worse than my current annoying odor?
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,966
- - LIttle Rock
Not a good idea...A better one...

If you can get to the hose to splice it, you can get to it to attach new hose to old and pull the new through as you pull the old out. Don't cut and splice it...pull it ALL through. Use a male-male hose connector and pvc cement...do NOT use clamps or duct tape. Cut the hose ends as smoothly as possible and butt them together as tightly as possible...you want a smooth unbroken surface that can't pull apart or get caught on anything. It'll prob'ly take some blood sweat and profanity...but leaving any of the old permeated hose in place isn't gonna solve your odor problem.
 
B

bill

The problem is

I agree with your assessment but: The 3 vertical sanitation hoses (toilet to y valve, y valve to thru-hull, and y valve to holding tank) are wedged so tightly together between the bulkheads(may actually be tied together by wire ties) that the won't budge. no wiggle or moving back and forth. The sanitation hose from y valve to thru-hull has never been used so it shouldn't need replacing and I'm thinking the vertical hoses from the toilet to the y-valve and back down to the holding tank run would be unlikely to have held waste. Wouldn't the most likely areas for permeation be in horizontal runs at the lowest level? Anyway, I appreciate your insight and have enjoyed your book. Thanks Bill
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,966
- - LIttle Rock
Plan B maybe?

Can you get the old hose out and re-route new hose through a more accessible path...even if means moving the tank (which, if it's much more than about 6' from the toilet is a good idea anyway)? If not, it doesn't appear you have much choice except to do it the way you described, 'cuz I can't see removing half the equipment on the boat to get to the hoses either. Sometimes I wonder what boat builders were thinking when the did some things...IF they were thinking at all! 'Cuz any builder who's been in business more than 15 minutes has to know that the quality (cheap) of the sanitation hose they all use will have to come out and be replaced sooner or later...yet they make it damn near impossible to do! The hose from the y-valve to the thru-hull is prob'ly ok if it's never been used...However, the entire head discharge hose and hoses from the tank to the deck pumpout and thru-hull have to come out and be replaced--even if you have to put more than one splice in 'em--to accomplish anything.
 
B

Bill

Thanks

I visited the Beneteau factory in Marion S.C. this fall. It was a wonderful experience but one thing that kept going through my mind was how easy it was to plumb and wire the boats before all the bulkheads were installed and the deck was joined to the hull. Thanks for your help Bill
 
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