On our H25.5, the old halyards are just too worn and stretchy. Might be the originals. I've ordered new halyards and expect delivery in the next week or so. The old halyards are 3/8" or 7/16" (probably Samson XLS) and and are still in place and operational. The new ones are 5/16" Sta-Set-X. How do I replace the current halyards? How do I get the new halyards run through the system?
How are halyards replaced
- Thread starter Bill18593
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There are many opinions as to that exact
approach but in essence you connect the end of the new halyard to the end of the old and pull the old one until the new one is in place. Don't let go of the line or you will hate yourself.
approach but in essence you connect the end of the new halyard to the end of the old and pull the old one until the new one is in place. Don't let go of the line or you will hate yourself.
Attachment?
Do I cut off the loop splice and attach the "tag" end of the new halyard to the previous shackle end of the old halyard and pull through? Seems kinda risky running the line to the top of the mast and down inside the mast.
Do I cut off the loop splice and attach the "tag" end of the new halyard to the previous shackle end of the old halyard and pull through? Seems kinda risky running the line to the top of the mast and down inside the mast.
Replacing halyard
I have yet to try this, but on my next change, I think I am going to get me some plain old poly ski rope, cut a couple of feet of it and use it like a chinese finger puzzle. Seems to me like this would be a down and dirty, easy way to connect two pieces, especially if they are a little bit different size. Might put a wrap of tape on the ends to help it tighten up soon as any pull is put on it. From then on, it should just get tighter the harder you pull.
I have yet to try this, but on my next change, I think I am going to get me some plain old poly ski rope, cut a couple of feet of it and use it like a chinese finger puzzle. Seems to me like this would be a down and dirty, easy way to connect two pieces, especially if they are a little bit different size. Might put a wrap of tape on the ends to help it tighten up soon as any pull is put on it. From then on, it should just get tighter the harder you pull.
Bill, sewing the old end to the new one works well
after cutting off the old shackle. Did the new halyard have a Flemish eye on the end? Iff so, whip the freshly cut old line then run the heavy thread through it and the loop several tmes, tie the thread off and fair the joint with some electrical tape. Take it easy and it'll pull through just fine. Even if the new one didn't have an eye, just sew the ends together and tape as described - don't have to use a lot of tape; spiral it on a couple of inches above and below the joint.
after cutting off the old shackle. Did the new halyard have a Flemish eye on the end? Iff so, whip the freshly cut old line then run the heavy thread through it and the loop several tmes, tie the thread off and fair the joint with some electrical tape. Take it easy and it'll pull through just fine. Even if the new one didn't have an eye, just sew the ends together and tape as described - don't have to use a lot of tape; spiral it on a couple of inches above and below the joint.
Check the archives
There is a great method using a paper clip to secure the two ends together, I think the credit goes to Steve Dion. I have used it several times, very simple, works great.
There is a great method using a paper clip to secure the two ends together, I think the credit goes to Steve Dion. I have used it several times, very simple, works great.
Or....Use a messenger line.....
.... an inexpensive messenger line of smaller diameter, 1/8 in for example, can be attached to the cleat end of the existing halyard by using a paper clip or sewing it, then covering the joint with some tape so it doesn't hang up. Pull the old halyard out from the front, replacing it with the messenger line. Now you can attach the new halyard's cleat end to the messenger and pull it back through.
.... an inexpensive messenger line of smaller diameter, 1/8 in for example, can be attached to the cleat end of the existing halyard by using a paper clip or sewing it, then covering the joint with some tape so it doesn't hang up. Pull the old halyard out from the front, replacing it with the messenger line. Now you can attach the new halyard's cleat end to the messenger and pull it back through.
First time is always hard
Anything written will work. First time is the hardest. Remember. If it does not go thru real easy, back off see what may be holding it up. Should go thru nice and smooth. If you pull real hard and split the new rope from the old , well you will have a longer process.
1. Cut the splice end. 2. Tape the new end about 6 inches, butt the end you just cut to the tape end and tape another 6 inches. 3. Pull lightly. 4. Done.
Anything written will work. First time is the hardest. Remember. If it does not go thru real easy, back off see what may be holding it up. Should go thru nice and smooth. If you pull real hard and split the new rope from the old , well you will have a longer process.
1. Cut the splice end. 2. Tape the new end about 6 inches, butt the end you just cut to the tape end and tape another 6 inches. 3. Pull lightly. 4. Done.Paper clip method
You will find this method referenced many times in the archives. I just did mine last week by using an opened paper clip hooked into my exsisting 3/8 halyards and into my new 5/16 halyards then lightly tape, pull through slow and you should have no problems. This took me about 10 minutes tops on each halyard. You can do it. ( new loop end to cut off shackle end)
You will find this method referenced many times in the archives. I just did mine last week by using an opened paper clip hooked into my exsisting 3/8 halyards and into my new 5/16 halyards then lightly tape, pull through slow and you should have no problems. This took me about 10 minutes tops on each halyard. You can do it. ( new loop end to cut off shackle end)
Dental floss
In the trial-and-error of replacing halyards over the years, I've found that sewing the new halyard to the old with dental floss (Yes, dental floss, just TRY and break the stuff...) was the easiest and most foolproof method so far. BTW... you're going to have to cut off the shackle.
In the trial-and-error of replacing halyards over the years, I've found that sewing the new halyard to the old with dental floss (Yes, dental floss, just TRY and break the stuff...) was the easiest and most foolproof method so far. BTW... you're going to have to cut off the shackle.
Dental Floss!
I too used dental floss. I placed the old and new halyards end to end and sewed them together with dental floss. When the new halyard was in place, I cut the dental floss and whipped the ends for a nice nautical look. Sure beats climbing the mast!
I too used dental floss. I placed the old and new halyards end to end and sewed them together with dental floss. When the new halyard was in place, I cut the dental floss and whipped the ends for a nice nautical look. Sure beats climbing the mast!
Don't do what I did!
Good luck. I am a first-timer as far as halyard replacement goes. I couldn't get either halyard through with the messenger lines, and now my boat has been launched and I need to have the yard install my halyards for me. The new halyard ends kept getting stuck as they got to the sheaves.
Good luck. I am a first-timer as far as halyard replacement goes. I couldn't get either halyard through with the messenger lines, and now my boat has been launched and I need to have the yard install my halyards for me. The new halyard ends kept getting stuck as they got to the sheaves.
There isn't mch room around the sheaves
at the mast head. So you need to make certain that your join is smooth and fair. You can scrape the end of the halyard to taper it then serve over it so that there are no lumps. Whipping the end of the line and then with scissors taper the end and with fine stuff like dental floss hitch over the end and you can make a neat point that will reeve easily. Think about how much your time is worth when you are not working for wages.
at the mast head. So you need to make certain that your join is smooth and fair. You can scrape the end of the halyard to taper it then serve over it so that there are no lumps. Whipping the end of the line and then with scissors taper the end and with fine stuff like dental floss hitch over the end and you can make a neat point that will reeve easily. Think about how much your time is worth when you are not working for wages.
Think short messenger line
You only need 1-2 ft of messenger line. Seize the end of both old and new messenger and then sew in the messenger. The clearance you get should allow the new halyard to pass thru the masthead sheaves but it may take a little twisting of the new halyard once it gets up to the sheave. 1/4" line is plenty strong for this kind of thing.
You only need 1-2 ft of messenger line. Seize the end of both old and new messenger and then sew in the messenger. The clearance you get should allow the new halyard to pass thru the masthead sheaves but it may take a little twisting of the new halyard once it gets up to the sheave. 1/4" line is plenty strong for this kind of thing.
Eureka! Zip Ties almost as necessary as duct tape
on a boat. I didn't have any paper clips on board but I did have some Zip Ties. They are strong, pointed and stiff and can be poked through the lines easily (large or small they both worked). Joining the two ends after melting, made for a really strong flexible joint that passed through the blocks easily. I even wrapped one around the frayed end before burning it to make for a very neat rope end. I change mine last night and in the darkness I tried to feel for when they went through, because I thought it might need an extra little tug but it passed through without my even feeling it. At first I trimmed the extra piece of zip after they were attached so they wouldn't hang up. Then I noticed that if I put the tie through the trailing line first then through the new line the extra zip tail faced backward and did not need to be trimmed at all. It worked so well I felt I needed to share my glee with all of you. PS: Checked with Bill at Macgregor, Costa Mesa, according to him they have always used 5/16" lines. I think when they get old and funky they look like 3/8".
on a boat. I didn't have any paper clips on board but I did have some Zip Ties. They are strong, pointed and stiff and can be poked through the lines easily (large or small they both worked). Joining the two ends after melting, made for a really strong flexible joint that passed through the blocks easily. I even wrapped one around the frayed end before burning it to make for a very neat rope end. I change mine last night and in the darkness I tried to feel for when they went through, because I thought it might need an extra little tug but it passed through without my even feeling it. At first I trimmed the extra piece of zip after they were attached so they wouldn't hang up. Then I noticed that if I put the tie through the trailing line first then through the new line the extra zip tail faced backward and did not need to be trimmed at all. It worked so well I felt I needed to share my glee with all of you. PS: Checked with Bill at Macgregor, Costa Mesa, according to him they have always used 5/16" lines. I think when they get old and funky they look like 3/8".
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