The hot water heater, located in the starboard locker, puts out really hot water. To the point where if you happen to put your hands under just the hot water you will get burned. When we're at our slip just keeping the hot water heater on for an hour will give us warm water into the next day at anchor. Is there a way to dial back the heating element just like a land based hot water heater? I can't find any sort of adjustment screw. I don't have the type or manufacturer of the the unit and I'll get that the next time I'm at the boat but it's just the box shaped kind. Anyone else ever run into this problem?
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Very hot.
Bob: I would agree that the water seems too hot. The problem with lowering the temp is that if you are away from the slip you are going to have a limited amount of HOT water. You can always use less hot, but cannot easily make it while you are on the hook. I have the some problem even with the ENGINE generated hot water but see no way to control the temp.
Bob: I would agree that the water seems too hot. The problem with lowering the temp is that if you are away from the slip you are going to have a limited amount of HOT water. You can always use less hot, but cannot easily make it while you are on the hook. I have the some problem even with the ENGINE generated hot water but see no way to control the temp.
S
Steve O. (the other Steve)
hot hot hot
You probably have a Seaward 6 gal. hot water heater if it's original equipment. There is no thermostat to turn down so you just have to be careful.
You probably have a Seaward 6 gal. hot water heater if it's original equipment. There is no thermostat to turn down so you just have to be careful.
B
Bryan Pfaffenberger
New heaters have temp limiting feature
Take a look at the West Marine catalog - today's generation of water heaters has the temperature limitation features your unit is missing. If you plan to take kids sailing, you might think about replacing the older unit with a new one. I've seen them on sale for $219.
Take a look at the West Marine catalog - today's generation of water heaters has the temperature limitation features your unit is missing. If you plan to take kids sailing, you might think about replacing the older unit with a new one. I've seen them on sale for $219.
Bryan, are they adjustable?
Bryan: Are these newer heaters adjustable. They all had some type of limiting (even the older Seward units) but can they be manually overridden?
Bryan: Are these newer heaters adjustable. They all had some type of limiting (even the older Seward units) but can they be manually overridden?
R
Ray
Mixing valve ??
I have the same problem.I'm looking into installing a mixing valve. You tee into the hot and cold lines, connect with a piece of tubeing with a valve. You introduce a small amount of cold water to the hot. It works with my boiler at home. Not 100% sure it will with the boats plumbing. Also looking into a "Watts" valve. Any plumbers out there.
I have the same problem.I'm looking into installing a mixing valve. You tee into the hot and cold lines, connect with a piece of tubeing with a valve. You introduce a small amount of cold water to the hot. It works with my boiler at home. Not 100% sure it will with the boats plumbing. Also looking into a "Watts" valve. Any plumbers out there.
J
JeffW
Watts mixing valve
Here's a post I saved from a Sailnet discussion list: ----------------------------------------------- I posted to this list well over a year ago asking for advice on the problem du jour, which is now solved, I'm happy to report. I don't remember who or when, but someone triggered an important connection - nursing homes. The problem on my boat (402-44) was that after the engine had been running a while, the domestic water coming from the hot water tap was a blistering 185 degrees. I have two small kids -- and that wouldn't do. They open the valve with it set to max hot, and are suddenly filling a quiet anchorage with ear piercing screams. So, someone suggested that I look into something called a 'thermostatic mixing valve' which is used in nursing homes and other places where they are required by local laws to limit the tap water temp to 125 degrees, which, apparently, is a very difficult problem in older buildings. This valve is a hunk of brass and bronze that has three water pipe connections, and a dial. It is meant to be spliced into a hot water pipe -- that's two of the water connections. The third connects to a cold water source. It measures the temp of the hot water, and mixes in an appropriate amount of cold water, and voila! no more 185 degree water at the tap. The dial is simply an adjustment for the desired output temperature, specified as 'warmer' and 'colder', so you engineer types will just have to fiddle with it. It is purely mechanical -- there are no electrical connections needed. It was installed right next to the water heater, and it works almost perfectly. I say almost because when the domestic water pressure pump comes on, the output temp at the faucet suddenly jumps 5 or 10 degrees. I'm not sure why, I would guess that it is because the pressure increase in the hot water line causes a pressure drop in the cold water line because the valve pulls more cold water -- just like opening another spigot would. It takes a couple seconds for it to get back normal, but that is just because the valve isn't quick enough to respond to the change in pressure. But it doesn't jump all the way up to blistering temps. And we are doing our part to reduce the noise in our harbors. Here's the spec sheet on the valve... http://www.wattsreg.com/antiscald/Series_1170.pdf
Here's a post I saved from a Sailnet discussion list: ----------------------------------------------- I posted to this list well over a year ago asking for advice on the problem du jour, which is now solved, I'm happy to report. I don't remember who or when, but someone triggered an important connection - nursing homes. The problem on my boat (402-44) was that after the engine had been running a while, the domestic water coming from the hot water tap was a blistering 185 degrees. I have two small kids -- and that wouldn't do. They open the valve with it set to max hot, and are suddenly filling a quiet anchorage with ear piercing screams. So, someone suggested that I look into something called a 'thermostatic mixing valve' which is used in nursing homes and other places where they are required by local laws to limit the tap water temp to 125 degrees, which, apparently, is a very difficult problem in older buildings. This valve is a hunk of brass and bronze that has three water pipe connections, and a dial. It is meant to be spliced into a hot water pipe -- that's two of the water connections. The third connects to a cold water source. It measures the temp of the hot water, and mixes in an appropriate amount of cold water, and voila! no more 185 degree water at the tap. The dial is simply an adjustment for the desired output temperature, specified as 'warmer' and 'colder', so you engineer types will just have to fiddle with it. It is purely mechanical -- there are no electrical connections needed. It was installed right next to the water heater, and it works almost perfectly. I say almost because when the domestic water pressure pump comes on, the output temp at the faucet suddenly jumps 5 or 10 degrees. I'm not sure why, I would guess that it is because the pressure increase in the hot water line causes a pressure drop in the cold water line because the valve pulls more cold water -- just like opening another spigot would. It takes a couple seconds for it to get back normal, but that is just because the valve isn't quick enough to respond to the change in pressure. But it doesn't jump all the way up to blistering temps. And we are doing our part to reduce the noise in our harbors. Here's the spec sheet on the valve... http://www.wattsreg.com/antiscald/Series_1170.pdf
B
Bryan Pfaffenberger
Force 10 unit has a "hot water control valve"
I don't know whether it's adjustable. No info on their web site... suggest checking out the manual at a marine store.
I don't know whether it's adjustable. No info on their web site... suggest checking out the manual at a marine store.
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